1995 help..lol.. Again

I went to have my muffler replaced.. they told me I have FUEL dumping into my exhaust. My muffler is from Midas, so replacing it now is under warranty, next one won't be under warranty (trying to keep the warranty). My Question, what would casue fuel to dump into exhaust?

Faulty FPR on the CPI unit under the intake plenum cover.  I'd pull off the top cover on your intake and have a look at the CPI spider.  If you see nice clean aluminum on the passenger side of the lower intake, then you've got a leaky FPR (fuel pressure regulator).

My spider has just recently been replaced, I had the idle control air sensor replaced last week.  I do not have the tools or the place, to remove the pladium. Who would be the going shop rate for a repair or replacement for Fuel injection?

Did they replace the 'nut kit' (internal fuel lines) when they replaced the spider?  If they didn't replace the internal lines...  Well, lets just say that they don't like to get removed, then reinstalled to a new spider.  It is never a good idea to replace the spider and not the 'nut kit'. 

I have no idea what the shop rate would be...  You're probably looking at a book time of 3-4 hours at the going shop rate Around here it's $65 for a mom & pop and about $80 for a dealership. 

I'd take it back to the place that fixed it the first time and demand an explaination.

I spent $934.17 to have spider replaced, I only have the old spider. I am lost,what are the internal fuel lines, are they the hoses that connect the spider.?

Yes, on the CPI motors (what you have in your truck) the fuel lines go internal to the intake plenum before they get to the CPI spider.  If the shop didn't replace the internal lines, chances are they damaged them in the replacement process and that damage is now becoming a larger problem for you.

If you do go back to that shop, or any for that matter, ask to have a look at the engine with the plenum off before they go poking at things.

How long ago did you have the spider replaced?

actually it was 6 years now..but have been complaining and taking my truck back every week to  Goodyear(gemini). I got less then 200 miles to a tank of fuel since the reapir, now I am getting less then 100 miles to a tank of fuel. Gemini told me it was a bad install of my exhaust so went back to Midas and had reinstall, Now my muffler has blown the sides out, and Midas said it is due to fuel dumping  straight into my exhaust. Midas is  telling me it is my fuel injection system. I just want to fix it and want to know what to say when I get there..lol

No way did they install things correctly.  200mi per tank is HORRIBLE and an exhaust won't affect things that much.

I'd see about taking it to another shop and getting a diagnosis atleast.  If they say that the CPI spider is bad again, demand that they change the 'nut kit' as well.

I have the 4.3L (02-95 manufactured date) so computer diagnostics wont help unless engine light remains on.. it will come on, then when shut truck off wont stay on. Could that be fuel  injection?

How many Blazer owners get ripped off every year with that stupid "YOU NEED A NEW SPIDER INJECTOR CRAP!"

Here is some news for ALL Blazer owners with CPI. Your left side of inside the plenum will be clean and the right side will be all carboned up. Every picture I have ever seen of inside of the plenum all look the same. I didn't change mine when I was told it was gone. That was 2 years ago and about 150K miles. It still runs good.

This girl also wasted $900 for nothing. What a shame.

*combining consecutive posts*

"I went to have my muffler replaced.. they told me I have FUEL dumping into my exhaust. My muffler is from Midas, so replacing it now is under warranty, next one won't be under warranty (trying to keep the warranty). My Question, what would cause fuel to dump into exhaust?"
 
How about this. The moisture in our mufflers smells like gasoline. A no brainer. You got Midasized. Just their cute little way of not having to warranty their cheap mufflers over and over. Lifetime warranty right? WRONG. They don't expect you to have the automobile long enough to use the lifetime warranty. You did. There is probably nothing wrong with your truck. If it is running good, leave it alone.



*EDIT: swartlkk* - Combined consecutive posts.  Please use the edit function to add any additional information to your post if another member has yet to reply.

It is not running good at all.. it stalls, hesitates and burns fuel bad.

Blasir, did you even bother to read ANYTHING in this thread before getting up on your imaginary pulpit?  Man come on.

If the FPR is leaking, it WILL clean off the aluminum lower intake.  The lower intake will no longer be a brown/copper color, but nice clean aluminum.  The FPR can be checked for leakage once the plenum is off to ensure that it is infact the source of the problem. 

Within the last few years, the aftermarket has released kits where the FPR can be independantly replaced without replacing the CPI unit as a whole.  Before then, the only choice was a new CPI unit, period.  If a fuel leak was present - confirmed either with a fuel pressure leak down test or visually when the plenum off and found to be either an injector or the FPR, the whole unit must be replaced.

If the 'nut kit' is leaking, then you can just replace the 'nut kit'.  A leaky nut kit will show up the same as a leaking FPR when performing a fuel pressure leak down test, but will be confirmed when removing the upper plenum.  There should be NO gas in the upper plenum.  Actually, there should be no fluids at all.

Any internal fuel leak should NOT be left unrepaired.  Unmetered fuel being added to the combustion process will cause your vehicle to run outside of the optimum range it is made to run in.  Most fuel leaks get worse over time, most...  Blasir, it is possible that you are an exception to the rule, but if you have a crystal clean area on your lower intake, then you too have a fuel leak internal to the upper plenum.

I love that!!!  A muffler installed wrong caused a couple hundred mile decrease in fuel economy per tank fill.  Man I HATE those Idiots who call themselves mechanics/technicians.  They are the ones who give the rest of us (technicians) a bad name.  If they don't know what they are talking about they need to grow some balls, suck it up and tell the customer this!!  Or get better training and info to better fix their customer's cars.  Sorry about my rant, But yes I would check the nut kit, and double check the regulator, because after 6 years it could have sprung a leak.  Now for the SES, the code will still be there for a little while after the light goes out.  The ECM does not clear it as soon as the light goes out.  HTH Korey.

At what point before my post did pokergirl_lynn say her truck was running poorly?
 I read perfectly well, Thank you!
Now it seems more possible that if she has been running here truck for a period of time running that bad that she contributed to the premature deterioration of her muffler.
1) get a better mechanic.
2) stop going to Midas
3) get a Toyota

 

quote:

ORIGINAL: pokergirl_lynn

actually it was 6 years now..but have been complaining and taking my truck back every week to  Goodyear(gemini). I got less then 200 miles to a tank of fuel since the reapir, now I am getting less then 100 miles to a tank of fuel(if youd have read it youd have seen this. This is normal to you?). Gemini told me it was a bad install of my exhaust so went back to Midas and had reinstall, Now my muffler has blown the sides out, and Midas said it is due to fuel dumping  straight into my exhaust. Midas is  telling me it is my fuel injection system. I just want to fix it and want to know what to say when I get there..lol

6 years @ 100 miles to 18 gallons of gas.
 
To quote pokergirl_lynn    "LOL"
 
00blackblazer  Do you really believe that she has been only getting 5 miles to the gallon for 6 years even through $3.50 a gallon gas prices last year?
 
How can anybody get help repairing their trucks if nothing makes any logical sense?

quote:

ORIGINAL: Blasir

6 years @ 100 miles to 18 gallons of gas.

To quote pokergirl_lynn    "LOL"

00blackblazer  Do you really believe that she has been only getting 5 miles to the gallon for 6 years even through $3.50 a gallon gas prices last year?

How can anybody get help repairing their trucks if nothing makes any logical sense?

Umm... I am going to have to concur with Blasir on this one.

Actually if you would read it again, Blasir, she was getting 200 miles per tank back when it was originally repaired.  So even with a 18 gallon tank, that works out to be slightly better than 11mpg.  But if some bumkin mechanic was telling her everything was fine (not all of us are as gifted as you think you are), how is she to know any different?  She is now only getting 100 miles per tank and wants to get it repaired.  Can you help or are you going to continue to bicker?

Back on topic here.  Anything else will be deleted.

Post from January 20,2007
"I have a 1995 Chevrolet Truck S10 Blazer 2WD
6 Cylinders 262 W 4.3L CPI .
I need some help. My truck was manufactured 02/95 so the computer is the older version. I have had it hooked to 3 computers and no codes display. They said it is casue my check engine light isn't on.
It runs rough, like to the point of filled fule  tank went 89 miles and had to refule. It was on empty.
I have had new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, map  sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel injectors (5 years ago) , O2 sensor  Transmisson service (2 years ago). EGR valve (4 months ago).
It is sometimes hard to start, hit the gas pedal and I blow alot of carbon out exhaust. It sputters when I accelerate, and smelling alot of fuel when I start the truck and when driving. It stalls any time I slow down. I know that it is really hard to diagnose in a forum, I hope anyone can give a clue as to what I can get checked to help.
Thanks Alot,
Lynn "

GET A PROFESSIONAL TUNE UP ( DON'T GET MIDASIZED )
 
95 Blazer LS 2DR 4X4
343,772 miles as of 2/02/07
original engine & spider injector
 
My giftedness speaks for itself MR Administrator!

See, this is exactly why I do not like duplicate threads...  Please help which I have locked and directed over to here.

Fact of the matter is we should be trying to help instead of poking holes in the description of problems.  We aren't all mechanics and sometimes may not be able to give all of the information necessary.