A list of common annoying S-10 Blazer quirks. - Page 2

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ORIGINAL: nofear17bmx

I actually dont mind taking the dash off. I have had to do it so many times to replace my radio and stuff so it takes me about 5 minutes. Just a few screws holding it all in. Its that #3 spark plug that still is ticking me off.

LIFT THE FRONT END UP AND TURN THE WHEELS, sorry caps, it works everytime, I know if i can do it at stock height with 30's on it, it should be easy for the rest, the trick is to use a u joint extension and a wobbler socket, it comes out easier then number 4 does on the passenger side.


I am gonna order a chiltons for the 1st gen s-10, haynes doesnt show me anything and I need to find out why my vents dont work.

 Forgot about that back glass squeek.

Well, I've had my 99 for about a week now and I'm all ready starting my list...
 
Passenger seat handle is broken
High pitched squeaking in the dash when I hit bumps-can't find it though
One of the connections for my privacy shade holder (the part that covers the jack in the cargo area) broke, so I listen to that vibrate and squeak
Rear door speakers don't work
Passenger side visor's mirror cover is broken, so it falls everytime my fiance flips it down to primp herself
Those stupid GM lug nut caps...missing 3 so far
 
 
But no matter what, I still love it!!
 

I hate the way there's no room in the cargo area even though it looks like there should be plenty of room.
 
Broken seat recline levers are annoying.
 
Changing the fuel pump and having to drop the fuel tank is annoying.
 
The torx head screws on the distributor cap are annoying because the only tool I have for torx fasteners is one of those chintzy screwdrivers with changeable bits but the handle is too long to fit so I had to use a 1/4" socket and a short extension with the bit inside the socket and the bit kept falling out of the socket.  Who'se idea was that anyway, you'll strip the plastic the screw threads into long before you'd strip the head of a phillips or even a socket head cap screw, torx was overkill for the sake of overkill in this application.
 
The oil cooler lines leak at the oil cooler and autoparts stores don't seem to have the right size o-ring to fix it.
 
My blazer is a '99 4dr, it's got lots of blind spots, the headrests in the front seem to be the biggest cause.
 
I have a rattle that seems to come from the exhaust, maybe a baffle in the catalytic converter, lots of people have complained about a similar rattle.

The 4x4 indicator lights on the fly shifter of the 1st gens never seem to function properly.

no one else has replaced the ignition switch on the steering column?  I thought this was a fairly common problem.

i am surprised no one mentioned the never ending rust that eats away at:
 rocker panels
 bottoms of doors
 fenders (above and behind the wheel)
 top of pillars
 top of rear window
 
 i only have the first three but blazers are known for them all, and bondo seems to only be temporary.

wow....the squeak in the dash....it comes with the territory...I have the lug nut covers from the right front wheel in my door pocket..(with all the other parts) too lazy to put them back on.....as far as the rust issue..the newer ones are much better on that..I have a 2000 and the only rust I have is on the top of the roof by my rear brake light....it's only because it spent most of it's life in florida..and the clear coat wore there....very minimal..and I live in Michigan...talk about salt! owning a blazer is a catch 22...for the most part..you can beat the poop out of them..and they keep running and running....but like all vehicles....they are prone to their quirks...

want brighter lights?  well i find that the sylvania silverstar lights work great, i have them adjusted perfectly and people still flash me like i got my brights on. plus i have halogen floods in the front that i shine towards the ground and slightly outward for that lit floor effect.

And with all the annoyances, I just went over 340K miles today. I finally had to replace the transfer case this week. It didn't break, it just plain wore out the gears from the chain turning for all those miles. That's what my mechanic said anyway. If anyone ever needs one, I got mine for 69.95 from Heberts in Goffstown, NH via ebay. I was quoted as much as $250 from a couple of local junkyards. $200 to mechanic to install and I had it all done for about what I was quoted for just the case. Now we're having 70 degree days here in New England since it is done. Go figure!

340K miles??!!?! Wow... Im not sure what's more amazing, the fact that its still going on the original motor or the fact that you managed to put 340k miles on a '95 model year car.

Rooster,

Why is that, about the rust. I've noticed that too with Chevy trucks, they seem to be more rust prone in those areas you mentioned than other cars. Sure they run, but dude, you've got a hole in your truck!

my parents bought my blazer from a lady who owned a junkyard 6 years ago. in the time we've had it we've put about 50k miles on it, it's at 208.5k now.  and in the time i've been driving i've put something like 8k on it. (havent had my license long) it hasnt broke down yet, thats always good. as far as quirks, well...
-seat levers broken
-currently replacing drivers side door (crunched it good) and the hinge pins were a PITA^5 (fifth power for you non-mathematical peoples) to get off, now i gotta get the glass out, not sure how and would appreciate help,
-busted compressor, still get cool air and heat but not as cold, or hot as it used to be
-turning on A/C or heat sucks power noticeably
-rattles and squeaks even without bumpy roads
-gas gauge reads empty at 1/8 of a tank
-battery charge meter reads almost red line, went up some time in the last few weeks from about 3/4 of the way from red line
-spare tire wont stay secured in the upright position in the back, the bracket or whatever that the bolt goes thru just slips throught the middle of the spare rim after one good bump, so it goes airborn on speed bumps and slams back down pleasantly( i take the ones at school at 5 mph so im not going that fast, and yes those are some big speed bumps)
other than that its in good shape, i put in a heater core summer before last, changed rotors coupla months back, only changed front brakes a few times since we had it, back brakes once, and doors, locks, and windows are all manual.  and as far as the radio goes i put in a new one last summer with a cd player and aux. input jack so i can hook up my ipod, plus i just installed xm

the rust comes from all the snow, ice, salt and saltwater if u leave near water. which i cant get away from on long island. and  all that crap builds up on the inside of the panels and doesnt drain off quick enough, same with the doors. once any drain holes get clogged, then u could expect rust. maybe a few more holes wouldn't hurt or maybe some heavy mud flaps. either way u have to catch it quick cause like i said it comes from the inside out. and once it starts it is hard to stop.  sometimes u may need to cut and weld on new panels
 
woodsballr, provide some vehicle info but its got high mileage so im guessing early 90's, and if its is and has power windows then all u need to do is lower the window half way,  remove the door panel, carefully peel back the weather sheild, and there will be an access hole where now since the window is halfway down u will see two bolts that attach the window to the arm, remove these bolts while holding the window( i usually wedge the window from underneath with a piece of wood), then roll the window foward so it slides out sideways.
 
plus did anyone mention those damn digidashboards, mines giving me hell and i have no idea how much gas i got, not to forget about no temp, speed, oil press, batt, tach. mr whizzard is still on my wish list, justt taking me time(procrastination problem)

The whole front end for steering and suspension
Spark plugs
Seatback Lever
Whole sound system
Idler pully
Shopping carts that like to ruin my paint job

oh u must mean those "shopping cart soccer balls", i am all pro!  hahahaha

The damn vacuum 4x4 system, these things suck.( and not only in the functional sense), rear glass squeek,location of fuel tank on the blazer.


I think the spark plug problem is only on 2nd gens.

To name a few:

~ any front end kiss and you have to buy bumper, bumper cover, and impact strip ( dealer cost almost $700)
~ electrical system shot after 100K. dead wiring to 3rd brake light, low beam lights, and currently working on a dead controller for the 4-wheel
~ Tranny. Tranny. Tranny.
~ Even with all new brake hardware still doesnt have much stopping power. Probably where i got the dented bumper.

Benefit: $2200 for a '97 with 100K. Not really a deal when i think of what has been spent.

the frezz plugs 4x4 fuse window pin in driver door the list can go on and on but it all comes down to it yoda is my baby 93

95 LS,160k miles
Worst ABS I ever tried to stop in...
Lower engine knock only on startup,GM says is "normal"
Rear wiper motor dead,
Alt just replaced,
Weak Front end,Ball joints upper and lower,Idler arm etc,
Just fixed power door lock not opening,
Mirrors go left and right but not up or down,
Door hinge pins...
Replaced headlight bulbs so we could see at night...
Cheap double oil line crimps end up leaving oil on road when lines let go with no warning...
This was a fleet vehicle well maintained ....I've got 1,500 miles on it and wont be buying another one anytime soon...
 Oh ya, Who was the brain Child that designed the fact that you have to cut the heater fan out of the box to replace it?? Probably the same engineer that designed the fact that you had to lift and lower the body on my old one to get the bell housing bolts out...
It is no wonder GM is in trouble...User friendly I think NOT!
They look good just the same.
 It is good in the snow also.
 Have to be fair and list the good points...Girl friend likes it but then again she doesnt have to fix it....

on mine the passenger seat recliner broke, the door panel is loose, the damn rear window is annoying as all hell, the rear wiper doesent work anymore, sqeekey dash, my driver mirror has the factory tinting on it and it is all peeling off so now the mirror has 3 different layers on it, the thermometer does not tell the right temp, the covers on the visors that cover the mirror and keep the lights off has broken off both visors, the cover that covers the bed area that also keeps the jack in place dosent stay on......im sure there is more
BUT i love this truck.  bought it 2.5 years ago for 5grand and it now has over 158000 miles on her and she is still running strong i just have to replace ball joints soon and maybe some other front suspension components.  im aiming for 200000 miles

List of issues:
 
1. Rough idle.  One light perfect and smoot, next like the motor is going to drop out.
2. NO 4hi....typical of most I think
3. Front brakes wear so fast
4. Factory radio decides when I can change the volume or station!
5. Random window motor/map light failures.  Next day all is good.
6. Headlight too dim
7. Can't get heater to blow through front vents
 
 
List of good:
1. Great in snow...when I reset battery to use 4hi
2. Never been stranded
3. Decent power
4. Great rear seat design...folds completly flat!
 
 
 

Decent power?  I find the Blazer I bought with the 4.3 vortec to be very gutless.  I know it's heavy but come on there is no torques to the thing at all.   Or maybe I'm just used to my Mustang that I have driven for over 10 years.

Wow! Where should I begin?  All this happened in order within the last 8 months on a 1997 Blazer LT
 serpintine belt replacement
 belt tensioner replacement
 radiator replacement ( after I flushed and serviced the old one first)
 head gasket replacement
 water pump replacement
 heater core replacement
 upper & lower ball joints replaced
 idler arm replaced
 front rotors
 windshield wiper control switch and motor circuit board
 rebuilt auto transmission
 front passenger side wheel bearing hub replaced
 rear drums
 rear passenger side wheel bearing
 front axles and transfer case replacement (both sides)
 drivers door hinges & pins
 
 
 

I think for what it is my Blazer provides very decent power for a 6 cylinder 200hp engine.  I did replace the exuast with a high-flow cat and a Flowmaster muffler.  If it didn't help the power it certainly improved the sound!!

skitzobmxr: I suffer from pretty much the same issues as you.

Here is my list compiled after about four months:

1. Front suspension completely blown
2. Rear defroster non-functional
3. Using cigarette lighter either blows a fuse or shuts the dome lamp off
4. 4X4: Getting into 4 HI hard, 4 LOW improbable. Getting out of 4 LOW almost impossible. The front drive indicator lights work on and off. When in four high it sounds like I'm torturing it if I go over 15 MPH.
5. Might as well tape the window motor button down and get some coffee/read a book while it's going down.
6. Dash rattles constantly, especially that weenie little ash tray.
7. The armrest/console compartment completely busted. The hinges work, but that's about it.
8. Seat hinge latches: who needs 'em? You can just push the seat-back forward anyway!
9. Steering column broken (the height adjust part).
10. Horn button busted.
11. Remote oil filter connection leaks all over the top of the wheel well.
12. Rear glass struts will fail if anything heavier than air is pushing on it.
13. If I brake on anything other than cement the rear tires will lockup and slide.
14. Coolant leaks: one at lower driver-side of radiator, one at the thermostat, one appears to be coming from below the intake.
15. It drinks gas like I drink Pepsi, and yet never needs to use the restroom.
16. It idles higher and pulls a bit more against the brakes when I turn the defroster on.
17. Idle is screwey in general. Sometimes it'll be normal, sometimes I can barely keep it from moving when I am on the brakes.

That's it for now I think... as for the good parts? That's another thread!