Another one of those won''t start threads (93 fullsize blazer.)

specs:
 93 chevy blazer full size
 5.7 v8 350
 throttle body
 
Issue:
 Engine won''t fire because fuel isn''t getting into the throttle body.
 
Possible second issue:
 The fuel pump can be heard charging the lines for approximately 7 seconds then it stops. Immediately after it stops the fuel pressure in the fuel lines drops down to 0. Whether this is normal or it indicatesthat a leak is present within the systemI do not know.
 
Have trieds:
 Checked fuel pressure and it is at 14 psi before the fuel filter. Throttle bodies require 9-15 psi so that''s fine. It seems the pressure didn''t register at the throttle body itself when I did try it there so I''m about to go retest that.
The fuel does pump to the throttle body. The injectors (which I took out to inspect) had fuel in them, but they won''t allow fuel through the ports into the throttle body below.
 
theories:
 The injectors need to be replaced. That''s the easiest guess I can come up with, but I don''t know how to test that theory.
 
 The fuel filter could be plugged causing the fuel pressure at the throttle body to be insufficient enough to make fuel flow to injectors, though I have to retest that possibility with the pressure gauge.
 
 The "check engine" light that''s been on in my truck forever is just now resticting the flow of fuel through some fail safe.
 
 The chevy has little Ford demons possessing its very soul.
 
 
 
Does anyone know what is going on with my truck? I''m this close to take it into a mechanic and letting him charge me for a ten minute job. Any help is appreciated and sorry ifthis disscussion has taken place before in apreexisting thread.
 
 
 

Well fuel pressure at the throttle body turned out to be 13 psi, so I ordered a set or refurbished injectors. Hope that was the problem. I''m still wondering if the fuel pressure should be bleading off after the fuel pump shuts down. Also, shouldthe fuel pump turn on every time I turnthe keys in the ignition? Anyone have any clues? 

I ended up taking it in to the mechanics and they found the codes I''d wiped from the system. Turns out the computer went out and they bought me a new one without asking me if I wanted to do it. Freakin thing cost me a grand. That''s all the POS is worth anymore so I was a little peeved. I wouldda yanked one from the junk yard if they''d a just told me. Anyway now the transmission is jarring between 1st & 2nd, 2nd & 3rd so I have drain out some fluid which didn''t seem to be overfilled before I took her in. Actually what  have to do is find where the drain is but that''s another story.
If this trany is going out I''m might just trash the beast.

If they did not authorize the purchase and replacement of the PCM, tell them to take it back.  That is well within your rights.  And a grand is WAY too expensive for a PCM for your truck.

As far as the transmission questions...  There is no drain standard on the 700R4/4L60/4L60E.  Under what conditions (throttle angle, cold/hot, etc) does the transmission exhibit these traits?

It displays the traits at all temps. Hot or not.
The dip stick is about an inch up the stick (about 1/2'''' above the hot operating level). The truck did it in the summer, and then when I ran it home from school (this last friday) it still did it.
If I listen to the rpm and let off the gas right before shifting it''ll shift nearly perfect but that''s definately not a fix.
Is it too much fluid and as a result too much pressure in the transmission?

How are you checking the fluid level?  It should be checked on a level surface with the engine running, transmission in park or neutral.

Yeah I ran across that advice while checking through the forums, probably yours actually. I suposse I''ll go run it for 10-20 and shift it through the gears before checking it.
It was at cold on a level. Get back to you in a bit.
Thanks.

If cold and at an idle, it should be a little lower so that should not be a problem.  I would see if you can get the level back proper.  You can disconnect one of the cooler lines at the radiator, get another connector with a short nipple to connect to the radiator and direct it and the line into a suitable container (this is so that if someone has changed the line routing at some point, you do not end up with an unexpected flow direction and fluid all over the floor).  You could actually use this method to run a DIY flush on the transmission, emptying it out a few quarts at a time, adding fresh fluid in between drains.  It will drain out whenever the engine is running as the pump on the transmission would pump the fluid out.

Ok, I can now be declared a machanically challenged retard. After running it and shifting through the gears the level dropped down to dead even on the hot level.
Is my transmission going out?

Without further tests, it is difficult to say if the transmission is going out or if it could be a valve problem, misadjusted TV cable if you have the 4L60 (700R4) or a problem with a solenoid if the 4L60E.  I cannot remember when the fullsize line changed over to the 4L60E (electronic version of the 4L60/700R4), but I think it was 93.

Ah crappy, well you saved me the cost of replacing my transmission fluid at the very least so thank you.

Ah, the woes continue. Has anyone rewound an alternator before? I drove over to my school (feathering the transmission into 2nd and 3rd intermittently) and right as I pulled into the town the alternator went down to 9 volts from 14. Thankfully God worked that one out for me in that I was already in town. I think my brother has a spare I can try swapping out, so if that works, has anyone ever rebuilt an alternator? This sounds like maybe a bushing went out in it...if it even has them.... or maybe one of the coils burned out? I''ve rewound my motorcycle stator with success, just wondering if it''s possible to do the same in this instance. If so, I''ll set out to find some reading material on the subject.
 
Also, since I may have been hosed on the computer replacement bill, does anyone know what it might cost to have my transmission tested? I can''t keep feathering the machine, it''s a little embarassing when women are in the car.
 
Thanks for being patient with me and the machine!

For the trouble, it is not worth it.  You could have the alternator tested at your nearest Autozone or Advanced Auto.  It could be a problem with the regulator which on your alternator should be external and replaceable.