best ball joints

ok guys and gals i need some reccomendations on ball joints. i replaced mine about 3 months ago and theyre smoked already.

Skyjacker makes good ball joints. I'm not sure if it has to be used in conjuction with the skyjacker lift, but we have the whole shebag on the Jeep and have not had a moment's trouble.

I have an 87 K5 that took a nose dive into the pavement at about 50mph when the front/pass left the vehicle.  I'm going to replace most of the suspension components and the ball joints.  This vehicle has a 4" lift and 35s and goes on and off road. Its driven mostly by my 18 year old, so I want the front end tight and as durable as I can get it.  Any suggestions on where to go to get the parts?  Does anyone sell a "Front End Rebuild Kit" that would have all the components in it?
 
Thanks.
 
TJ

I would just go to an autoparts store and get some replacement joints and suspension parts, then install them correctly. As long as ther is no frame warpage, everything should be great.

For ball joints I've heard good things about Moog. Myself i just had to replace my driver's side upper and lower ones just yesterday and i was just concerned about getting them in and not so much what brand so i just got a set from checker and they are holding up just nicely. Of course just make sure you get the greasable ones and fill them with some red grease and you'll be just fine. Of course what also keeps longevity is to pump a little grease in them at each oil change. Makes sure they dont go dry.

The front pass wheel/tire left the vehicle.  I had replaced wheel studs, retorqued them at least twice, but that obviously wasn't enough.  The lugs loosened up, eventually backed off, and the tire/wheel left the vehicle.  It was on a country, two lane road.  No, there wasn't any indication, vibe or other warning.  The only indication was when the front end dropped and slammed into the pavement.  Luckily it was 0230 in the A.M. and there was no traffic.  Needless to say, it was wild ride - having spent most of my adult life as an Army maintenance test pilot is the only thing that kept it from rolling (not unlike a "cyclic hardover" emer. procedure).  I got it off the road, onto the shoulder and walked home.  The next morning I found the wheel/tire about a quarter mile away - thank God it didn't hit anything, but it did cross the road as it came to rest on the opposite side.  I got some new lug nuts and put it back on and drove it home.  The brake disc had been ground down about an inch and half.  I replaced the brake disc and it felt Ok, but pulls to the right now (gee, I wonder why?).  Shortly after, the XMSN died, so it sat for a couple of years.  I just put a new 700R4 and tqe convertor in it, so its now also time to fix the front end.  Anyone use one of the ball joint presses?  Do these work, or do you end up having to pull the whole thing apart anyway.  I've got an 11 ton press, but if can avoid some unnecessary disassembly, all the better.
 
Tom

moog are the way to go.  and the press does help a little, after you figure out how it all goes together!

Does Raybestos make suspension parts? Or is it only brakes? 

im still lookin in to some but thanks for the help guys! and ive already replaced my drivers side and it was a fairly easy job

Hi Folks!
 
I just purchased a 2000 4WD Blazer  and the ball joints were found out to being very bad condition. Dealer wanted $ 900 to replace of them so off to do myself. Well first off, I went and purchased uppers and lower ball joints from Auto zone (Duracraft) and guess what I had the correct part # for my auto but the bolt holes did not align up when I went to install uppers. Went to NAPA and they helped me out and now have correct ball joints.
 
I went and drilled out the OEM rivets using cold chisel and etc and have all the rivets out but now I cannot free-up the wheel and hub assy! I tried everything, PB soak overnight, 3 LB metal hammer to end of shaft pounded the living day lights out of it, used a 3 claw puller on to the wheel hub (where the wheel rim bolts on) and used a small propane torch and put the heat between the CV joint and near the bearing. I may need now to have the auto taken to a garage if I cannot get this assy free and off to install lower ball joint? Also I have read on the post you need to pound the heck out of it to free-up. I also damaged the thread on the shaft. What size die will repair?
 
Thank-you for  helping me out in this dire need for help?
 
Michael

are you saying the CV shaft will not come out of the hub? mine slid right out with a few taps from a hammer

Hi Steve! Yes I'm banging on the splined axel shaft to get the steering knuckle off to remove lower ball joint. It will not budge? I'm ready to touch it!!
TX MM Any ideas would be great???
 

hmmm my only advice at the moment it to thread the axle nut back on until it is flush with the end of the CV shaft and hit it with a sledgehammer.

Steve,
 
I have banged the heck out of it its like it's welded and opp's damaged some threads on the end of the axel!  I meant to say tourch it vs. touch it in my previous  reply, sorry!
 
Well if you Steve or any else has suggestions that would be great! I have read earlier reply's to similiar issues like mine and have done what is said "pound the heck out of it"
 
MM

hmm well if your just doing the ball joints you could just move the knuckle out of the way OR actually pull the CV joint out with the knuckle and then when you're done put a little fluid in the front diff (assuming you lose any)

Moog parts are the way to go! i work with them everyday and they are great. The ball joint press is very helpful in my opinion. You should not have to take the cv shaft out with the knuckle, if the cv shaft wont come out of the knuckle with a regular hammer, try an air hammer with a pointy bit. You kinda have to wiggle the knuckle around to get it to come out. For me i like to detach the knucle from the lower ball joint and some times even the tie rod, it makes for more movement and what not for getting the cv shaft out of the knuckle. If all else fails i would think someone cross threaded the splines when reinstalling the cv shaft last time it was out!

Thanks everyone for the suggestions! I'm going to take another crack at it today and I will report back on my progress if any!

Hi Steve K and all with Ball Joint/Hub removal issues.

Sorry I did not get back to you sooner but yes I did get the kuckle off by just as
everyone said "bang" the heck out of it and I used a 5lb hammer and it finally loosened. It was not stuck on the splines but rusted in on the bearing housing. I will tackle the P side this weekend! Take Care
 
In addtion, I would P-blast the inside of the knuckle where the bearing ring is on the knuckle not just the spline.

Dang. i just went to get an allignment and they told me my ball joints were bad and that they couldnt give me one until i got them replaced. So looks like Im going to go through all this as well