Breaks STILL Squeak! Help!

My brakes have been squeaking for a while now, I have new pads and rotors on the front so its not those.

On the back, I checked out the rotors and they seem ok. I put new pads on and even put some anti squeak stuff everywhere they contact the callipers. This hasn't helped a bit, so the only thing I can think is the rotors aren't ok. They squeek when you have low, medium, and high pressure on the pedal, when its how, when its cold. I just want to know if getting new rotors for the back will fix it before I go spending the money.

Bye the way, 2003 2dr 2 wheel drive 4.3L.

The most common cause of brake squeal is the contact area of the brake pad to the caliper shifting. So you've taken care of the fronts with anti-squeal on the back of the pads, I'm thinking it must be the rear. Have you had anyone outside the truck listen to try to pinpoint the noise?
I doubt that you need to replace rotors for squealing, just put anti-squeal on the rear pads and lube the caliper slide pins.


BTW, I checked your second skin link and I find dermatologists for dry cracked skin care....lol

I lubed the **** out of the slide pins and put gobs of anti on the backs of the pads.

Thats interesting about the link, thanks for the info.

Did you have someone listen to see if it's front or rear brake noise?

Not yet, tomorrow will be a good day for that. One thing though, the new pads were just a little longer than the old ones, so I didn't use the brackets on one side and i squeezed them in on the other. Could that be it?

What kind of brake pads you using? Some of the cheaper stuff will make noise all day long.

The brackets? Are you talking about the little piece of spring steel (anti-rattle clip). That could be a problem for noise. Why are the pads longer, is it just a buildup of paint on the metal part of the pad? Did you use cheap aftermarket pads?

Not sure of the brand, got them at Murray's for like 25ish dollars for the rear. I really don't want new ones because there was not really anything wrong with the old ones.

Rob where the heck do you get all these pics from? man you got a pic for everything lol.

And when did you become a MOD? I just noticed.

Did I miss something here?

quote:

ORIGINAL: Canadian88

Did I miss something here?

LoL no, I was commenting on the pic Chevy Lover linked for you. He helps out alot of people with pics. lol

x

On my '95 front brakes, the 2 tabs on each of the outer pads I tap down with a hammer after the new brake pads are installed. I always use the flat end of my tire iron to push up on the caliper, leveraged against the rotor while tapping the tabs tightly against the caliper. I never use the anti squeal grease and they have never squealed after a brake job. If you don't do this, you can see that the pads are loose. Loose pads are what causes brake squeal. Even top of the line pads will squeal if they are loose.

Don't know any tips for ya. My rear discs/pads sqeaks once in awhile too. I have to apply the right amount of brake pedal pushing to getthe noise. It goes away if I push a bit harder. Dry or wet roads. It squeaks. I have Duralast pads in the rear. Even wear on the pads. 90,2XX miles on the rear discs.

Probably Horehay spilling Corona on the pad material during assembly. Dirty fence jumpers.

Ok enough of the slures, damn wetbacks, anyway, I think you guys are right about them needing to be tight.

BTW I think you spelled horehay wrong, maybe there should be a J in there somewhere...

If you find that it ain't the pads themselves... check your caliper bolts.

On more than one occasion I've developed brake squeeks and found that the caliper bolt has wiggled loose (one time I even lost one) and the caliper is sliding forwards slightly and making contact with the edge of the rotor.

It sounds like brake squeeking, and doesn't really even leave a mark on the rotor. So spotting it is sometimes hard.

The threaded hole for the bolt on the calipers is supposedly bad for stretching out a bit and causing this problem. (I don't know if it's true or not, it's just what I heard from my mechanic)

Worth a look anyway

Clean the heck out of the rotor to ensure you removed all the packing lube they use to extend shelf life.

Then shoot the pads also to remove any buildup they got from them.

Use anti sez for the caliper bolts (sometimes they keep the caliper from sliding all the way for proper contact)
and did you say you used the ANTI SLIP on the SLIDE area of the CALIPERS? If you did, remove all that gunk.
That is a sure fire way to keep the caliper from getting proper contact. You should use a lube or anti sez there, not anti slip.

also check to ensure you did not get any rust, dirt, rocks, ect. in the pad area. Sometimes a small grit or pebble will cause the same and take out your rotor at the same time.