Need Hitch help don`t have a clue

Hi all

I have never ever towed anything before, so this is all new to me. I have some question in getting the hitch I need

Now my 2003 Jimmy only has a class one hitch for some reason(don’t know why)

Now I need to tow a trailer that I want from u-haul the 6x12 trailer and it needs a class two hitch, Now my truck has the spot on the bumper to put a ball in the middle, will that spot work.

I was looking at hitches online and see I can get a series five hitch of all things, can my jimmy really support that kind weight or should I just stick with a class two or three.

Also theses will bolt right up like that site says or what
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fixed long link for ya - pm for instructions on how do hide the link - hillbilly

A  class 3 hitch is the way to go for the S-Series Blazer, a class 2 has less capacity than the Blazer, and a class 3 is rated for more than the Blazer can move.
 
I'm not sure what the bumper is rated for, towing wise... The manual should probably tell you...

Bumper is rated at a class 2 I think... I have a class 4 hitch on my blazer... I can pull anything that the engine can handle.

I can pull just as much as you with my class 3! lol

The only real reason for opting for a class 4 on a Blazer, is if there's no cost difference... For off-road snapping ability, I was gonna go for the class 4, but for me, it was $150 or so more...

so class 4-5 are over kill so I should get a class 3 right
 
I plan on buying a boat and some snowmobiles this year and maybe ever tow a sleeping trailer
 
Im going to do CDN prices today as those are us ones you know

quote:

ORIGINAL: drperry

I can pull just as much as you with my class 3! lol

 
Well, the hitch was on it before I got it...
 
Anyway, if you don't do any offroading, a class three is the way to go.

quote:

ORIGINAL: chevys rule

so class 4-5 are over kill so I should get a class 3 right

I plan on buying a boat and some snowmobiles this year and maybe ever tow a sleeping trailer

Im going to do CDN prices today as those are us ones you know

 
Yeah, class 4 and up is total overkill... It's not really the engine power that determines towing capacity... the strength of the frame and suspension has more to do with it.
 
And my prices are in Canadian, since that's where I live too :p
 
 

quote:

ORIGINAL: EuroGoldLS

quote:

ORIGINAL: drperry

I can pull just as much as you with my class 3! lol

Well, the hitch was on it before I got it...

Anyway, if you don't do any offroading, a class three is the way to go.

 
 
Actually, my class 3, seems to be holding up just fine for off-roading and yanking out Dodges and Fords, and the the occaisional 1/2 ton Chevy... I'll let y'all know if I get stuck and it gets bent getting me out, lol

wait, so what is the advantage of class 4 for off roading?

Theoretically less chance of it bending when you take your running start to get yourself, or someone else un-stuck...

That's the only possible advantage I can see of it. But so far, my class 3 is holding up just fine, and I had to yank out a 5900 lb dodge 3 times in one day, lol

I saw that vid, it was pretty cool.
 
Anyway you can expect to pay between $100-$175 for a class 3.

Pretty close to that in Canadian money, too, unless you live in a rip-off city like me, lol

I was just looking at trailers and see some have hydraulic brakes,now i've seen trailer hitches with these big square plugs on them is this for them ot what.
 
As I said before I really don't know what is what
 
 

Trailers that have hydraulic brakes usually have something in the tounge that determines how much your truck is slowing down and then applies some braking on the trailer (the U-haul trailer u mention will have hydraulic braking) You do not need anything extra to operate hydraulic braking trailers.

The square boxes you are talking about I believe you saw on like a Silverado/Suburban or any fullsize pickup/SUV they have a seven pin connector that has an adapter to the standard 4 pin wiring harness. Looks Like This The extra pins on those allow you to have an electric brake controller that hooks up to your truck and applies the same amount of braking power your truck is to the trailer brakes (it is also customizable as far as i know). This is not neccasary and i don't think it was available on blazers since you usually use a brake controller in large trailering situations (higher than the blazers capability).

If you get a trailer that has hydraulic brakes it is really nice (they are also called surge brakes, since they brake more under heavy braking). Also if you are going to be towing a lot it is nice to have a ballmount like this Convert-A-Ball Ball Mount Cushioned . It helps easy the vibration of towing a trailer from road bumps, taking off and stoping, my dad has one for his suburban for pulling our boat and it is nice.

You can also take a look at this thread for some help on figuring things out for trailering

Hope this helps.

-Lenny

I had an '01 4dr 4x4 auto which I had a class 3/4 hitch installed on when I purchased a travel trailer with electric brakes. The hitch was rated for 4000lbs with a 400lb. tongue limit without weight distribution. With the weight distributing hitch it is rated at 6000lbs. and 600 lb. tongue weight. The Blazer is rated as high as 5500 lbs. tow capacity depending on tranny and gearing.
 
When I traded the Blazer in for an '04 Trailblazer I took off the hitch. I have since purchased a '99 4dr. 4x4 LT for work and play. I mounted the hitch onto this Blazer but have not yet wired in the electric brake controller.
According to  the owner's manual the Blue wire for the brake controller is in the trailering wire harness ( which all Blazers come with ) so chevy must have counted on people using the Blazer to tow decent sized trailers. Mine weight about 4400 lbs. ready to roll.
 
We did tow a 1200lb. pop-up trailer using the bumper hitch but I don't know if it can handle much more than that.
 
If you plan on getting a larger trailer in the near future the class 3/4 is probably the better one to go with.

I wonder if I should go crawling around under my dash looking for a blue wire...

On my Bravada, I believe there was a blue and a red wire coiled up in front of my underhood fuse box...  But I could be wrong...

Well just aupdate I went looking yesterday and a class 2 is $161 and a class 3 is $170 but this morning theres a resse hitch for $130 that can tow up 7500 don't know what class that is thow
 
But for $130 for a hitch that can pull up to two jimmys with it I think thats a great deal
 
But I don't know if it will mount up just like the 2 and 3 ones,anyone know what a 7500 hitch would be

Probably a class 3/4 hitch, if it's 7500lbs... I think the class 4 that was on my parents old Suburban was rated at 10,000lbs (exact same to rating as the truck)... That may have been a class V though... it's been awhile...
 
While having a hitch that can tow 7500lbs might sound nice... The vehicle isn't really built for it... It'll probably do it, but... I don't think it'll be happy for very long, lol. Since it's cheaper, might as well go for it... Since it is cheaper, though, it might be one of those "universal" fit ones...

Well to end my Topic this is what I bought todayThey didn't have any class 4's in but to my surprise this was the one for $130
 
This is what I went from
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/1cavy/?action=view&current=pics001fix.jpg
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/1cavy/?action=view&current=pics002.jpg
To this
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/1cavy/?action=view&current=pics006.jpg
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/1cavy/?action=view&current=pics003.jpg
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/1cavy/?action=view&current=pics004.jpg
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/1cavy/?action=view&current=pics005.jpg
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/1cavy/?action=view&current=pics007.jpg
 
Yes look how sad it is,Don't trust using that spot on the bumper either