New Guy here, need some advice

Hey Iv been a long time fan of the blazer, but I havent had one until Just last week! I was Given an 87 s-10 blazer 4x4 2.8L 2dr Auto w/140k miles. It has the normal s10 stuff wron with it:

1. both driver and pass window needs the plastic window guide/holder I need to know whats the part number and where I can order some new ones.

2. Speedo doesnt work, I have no clue on this one since I looked and everything is connected (mechanical speedo)

3. Oil Pressure and Temp are out, this weekend I found 2 crispy plugs hanging near the master cylinder and 2 spots near the oil filter that I think is where they go, we will see if that fixes the temp/oil pressure, if anybody knows for a fact that those are the temp oil post here please

4. Truck sweats oil, there are new valve cover gastkets in the back than came with the truck. So im guessing thats where its leaking from

5. 4x4 will engage in the cab but the vacuum tubes are all rotted and will need replacing before it will lock the front differantial.

Any help you guys can give me will be greatly apreaciated!

anybody know how to help?

well u can goto any local automotive store and ask for plastic window guides they'd usually be in an aisle but just ask in case ... also a bit curiousas to how much u got this truck for ?

Free, I installed a radio into this girls car and she gave me the truck for it.

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1. both driver and pass window needs the plastic window guide/holder I need to know whats the part number and where I can order some new ones.

GMpartsdirect.com

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. Truck sweats oil, there are new valve cover gastkets in the back than came with the truck. So im guessing thats where its leaking from

Proabably have to be replaced again. Torque them right,

Thanks I know of gm parts direct but whats the part number for those window guides? and there are 2 per window right?

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and there are 2 per window right?

Inner and outer for each window I would guess.

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ORIGINAL: 2kSnakeEater

Hey Iv been a long time fan of the blazer, but I havent had one until Just last week! I was Given an 87 s-10 blazer 4x4 2.8L 2dr Auto w/140k miles. It has the normal s10 stuff wron with it:

1. both driver and pass window needs the plastic window guide/holder I need to know whats the part number and where I can order some new ones.

2. Speedo doesnt work, I have no clue on this one since I looked and everything is connected (mechanical speedo)

3. Oil Pressure and Temp are out, this weekend I found 2 crispy plugs hanging near the master cylinder and 2 spots near the oil filter that I think is where they go, we will see if that fixes the temp/oil pressure, if anybody knows for a fact that those are the temp oil post here please

4. Truck sweats oil, there are new valve cover gastkets in the back than came with the truck. So im guessing thats where its leaking from

5. 4x4 will engage in the cab but the vacuum tubes are all rotted and will need replacing before it will lock the front differantial.

Any help you guys can give me will be greatly apreaciated!

Alright lets do this by the numbers. Sorry if this is long and too detailed, but you asked.
1. Order Free Catalog, click here

2. The cable runs up from teh t-case to behind the speedometer on the dash. On the back of the dash speedo gauge is the VSS (vehicle speed sensor). Disconnect the cable and lubricate it, when it gets cold out they old lube gets sticky and the speedo cable doesn't llike to work right. My speedo will bounce 5-10mph, and the colder it gets the more it bounces around. I also have a '87 S10-Blazer, 2.8L V6, 2 door 4x4.

3. Yes, that could be your problem. The oil pressure sending unit, and oil pressure switch are located next to the oil filter. Good luck getting your hand in there without removing the front driveshaft, and cross over pipe. lol

4. Could be your oil pressure sending unit, or oil pressure switch are leaking oil, might have happended when the wires were yanked off. The best way to find an oil leak is too pressure wash all the dirt, grease, and oil off the engine at the car wash. Leave the engine running, and avoid direct pressure to the radiaotr cap, and intake. The rest is free game. No you won't crack your block!!!! After the engine dries, sprinkle baby poweder where you expect the leak to be. The baby powder will absorb the oil, you'll see it.

5. Those vacuum tubes control more then just the front axle. The vacuum system is one unit. It is feed off teh passengers sdie of the engine (behind the trottle linkage) and goes to your brake booster, your MAP sensor, your heat-a/c controls in the truck, your t-case, and other vacuum controlled stuff. Replace all the old vacuum lines. There are three hoses that run down to the t-case. One is supplying vacuum tot he switch, then one runs back up to the vacuum contorller next to teh battery (which engages the front axle), and the last one is a vent line. It splits off over the t-cae and runs to another port on the t-case (connects tot he t-case in 2 places). then it runs up into the engine compartment and ends right next to the hose that goes to the vacuum actuator. Now if you plan on 4wheeling this truck there are 3 more vent lines to be concerned with. The front diff, rear diff, and tranny. Front diff should end in engien compartment next to the vacuum ball. Rear diff will end by body, extend it to end in engine compartment. Tranny is the most critical, there is a 4" long vent hose on top of the tranny right behind the bellhousing, feel for it by ahnd, extend this intot he engine compartment as well.

Got any more questions?????
Need any pics??? I just mgith have them already. You could say I know this truck pretty well. Not much on it I haven't worked on to date.

OMG your a blazer God!, Yes send me pics of the speedo and vacum line stuff to camaroz28_001@yahoo.com. Also *update* new stuff i have found out:

I got the Pass window to go up (I fiddled with it) and I went out and got a 2nd pas. side switch. Using both switches the window will go up but not down. Drivers side doesnt control a damm thing and the drivers side switch doesnt fell broken and feels like it should when pressed up or down. I was told that these blazers have a problem with the wires getting worn out by the years of opening and closing the doors is that true? I have also ordered the window guides and are $3 a piece, I will be getting these sat from my dealer. I would like to know how to bypass the switch and operate the window manualy by crossing wires, what wires should touch each other? what combo for up and what combo for down?

2. Power door locks dont work, that switch does fell like its busted and old. It wiggles around instead going *just* left or right.

Again thank you all soo much for any help you can give me!

oh and before I forget, Both door sag. Pas doesnt bother me that much, the drivers is just bad! I noticed there are bushings in the door that look replaceable (if thats even a word) I will find out at my dealer sat if I can buy them, does anybody know what part number they are? Blazer suck at this point of the door as they are welded and not bolted in like my camaros and firebirds have been.

You can grab a pin/bushing kit at any autoparts store. One thing that you'll want to grab is a light truck door hinge spring tool (LT Door Hinge Spring Tool $16.99 - Eastwood.com). It'll make the job SOOOO much easier. If you know of someplace that you can rent/borrow this, then that would probably be a better choice, but for $17, I'm just going to buy it when I need to replace my hinge pins/bushings again (passenger door is getting worse)...

do I need that pin puller tool too?

I did not use a pin puller, but if you have the extra $$$, it would only make things easier. All that I know is that it was a major pain in the a$$ to get that spring back in (not having the proper tool).

My local Discount auto lets me "rent" tools so Il defenetly do that this weekend

I could NOT find this tool ANYWHERE in my area. I don't know enough body shop guys well enough to borrow the tool from them, but parts stores did not have it. I will be buying it before too long. Maybe we'll start a revolving tool for BF.com! LOL Only pay shipping to the next person! LOL...

If you are able to find this in some kind of rent-a-tool program from any of the larger autoparts stores, please let us know. It would be good information to have.

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ORIGINAL: 2kSnakeEater

OMG your a blazer God!,

I was told that these blazers have a problem with the wires getting worn out by the years of opening and closing the doors is that true?
what wires should touch each other?

2. Power door locks dont work, that switch does fell like its busted and old. It wiggles around instead going *just* left or right.

Again thank you all soo much for any help you can give me!

Just a regular guy who has spent some time working on my junk over the years. There are others more knowledgeable then me on here. But thanks anyway.

1. Yes. Cut open the rubber sleeve in between the door and pillar. Make sure all the wires in there are in good shape, you may have to splice in a short piece of wire to reconnect the broken wire.

2. Replace the switches, and fix the wiring. The switches pop out and there is a wire connector on the back of it. The connector should be held in place with some cupped looking things, no idea what they are callled. Pull them off and the connector comes off. Make sure the contact area is clean, scrape the crap off with a sharp object. If you still have problems with the locks, more then likely your activator(s) are worn out, replace them as well. Mine barely work, but I don't care. Eventually the doors will be coming off forever.

It may just be me, but it may be a little easier to run a continuity test on each wire that goes through the door than just cutting open the door wire loom. This way you can narrow down which wire (if any of them) are broken, requiring the loom to be cut. If you can, try to leave the rubber boot intact and just slide a new wire through to replace the broken wire.

Sure, that would be a better way.

I didn't think of it when I did mine. Good call.

I will try everything listed here, will report back on the weekend

While you are doing the continuity test, make sure to test all possible combinations to test for crossed wires inside.

EX. With wire 1 inside the door, test all of the wires that go through into the vehicle on the opposite end. You need to make sure that you get continuity on the wire (end to end), but you also need to make sure that no other wires are grounded out to that wire as well.

sooo, Is this truck worth the price I paid?