radiator replacement and blazer wont start related??

Hi I have a 93 chevy s10 blazer tahoe LT (4X4) and I recently just replaced the radiator which had 5 inch cracks all over it.
The truck was starting to sputter and felt like it was going to stall as I pulled it into the garage.
I installed a brand new radiator and hoses/clamps whick took care of all leaks beautifully.
Not accounting for the 50% coolant in the engine I accidently filled the radiator with 100% antifreeze..
I then took it for a 1/2 hour drive where it ran beautifully and the heat was great( no more sputtering).
Then I pulled it back into the garage, turned it off to check the oil, and when I went to start it again, it wont start (cranks but no fire)..

I checked for any broken wires/loose or off hoses and checked all the fuses

The next thing I was going to do was change the distributor cap and plugs (looks like a nightmare with Vortec 4.3L)
I guess my first ? would be could anything with the cooling system in my senerio (the leak or 100% AF) have anything to do with it not starting now?
Any feedback much appreciated..This snows killing me with the Mustang

Check the fuel pressure. Could be the fuel pressure regulator, ignition module, starter, solenoid.......
 
 
Cap 'n rotor are easy to do. Just label the wires or remove one at a time so you don't get mixed up.

OK thanks. I just changed the rotor and cap and changed 3 spark plugs and new wires.
I decided to leave the other 3 plugs because the ones I changed looked fairly new along with the wires looked almost new.
I'm not too familiar with mechanics, but the only thing I see that looks crusty, cracked and nasty is a white plug that plugs into the motor on the right side, just around where the middle sparkplug is..
Does anyone know what this is and may it be the reason it wont start.
(I dont think its the starter because it cranks over fine, it doesnt fire)

Check you oil.

Maybe the Coil pack went out?  Check for spark?

There is no coil pack it is a distributor. Make sure you have spark at the plugs. If you do then check to make sure fuel is being delivered properly.

Don't forget to make that coolant a 50/50 mix or you'll have a rad full of jelly.

But check for fuel and spark for your no start issue.

ScottyK,

That should be your coolant temp sensor, there should be two of these one for the computer and one for the cluster. It is possible that if this one is to the computer and if it has failed it may not allow the truck to start. If this is the case then you need to get a scan tool to find out what the DTC code is and then get a better picture of what to look for...
 
Also check for codes if P0338 is present then the crankshaft position sensor is the problem...

I just recently replaced the coolant temp sensor that screws into the engine.
This still didnt make my temp. guage work though.
Do you know where and how much a scan tool is?
Is that the tool that plugs into the computer plug under the steering wheel for a reading?

Yeah partsamerica.com has some for 69.99 that would work also there are some lowcost options on the internet...there are some manufacturer specific scanners for around 39.99 at the local parts stores, those that sell fore more are for universal use ie for ford, gm, chrysler and some imports...if you don't need those then the GM specific will work...

That sensor on the drivers side of the motor between the plugs is the knock sensor.  On the passenger side of the motor between the plugs is the temp sensor for the gauge.  The 2 wire sensor near the t-stat housing is the temp sensor for the ECM.  Korey.

Ok...  Well, I am consolidating the threads on this topic back down into this one.  I cannot merge the threads (would be nice if I could) so here are the links to the locked threads that were floating around:

Blazer cranks but wont fire
cracked gas line
white plug (sensor)??

And another related thread that I haven't locked:

WooHoo! I got it started, but still need a part name

I installed a coolant temp. sensor in the place of the ECM sensor.
Could this be a reason my Blazer wont start?

Im working on spark and fuel now but I figure3d I ask. Thanks

Well my check shows I have fuel and I replaced the plugs.
I got it to start again and it idles somewhat smooth but when I give it gas it sputters and doesnt run well and trys to die.
It makes a zingzingzingzing which sounds and feels like it is coming from under the distributor cap..
I replaced the cap and rotor but it sounds like the mechanism underneath is rubbing hard or burning out..
Any suggestions what this might be and could it be the reason it is not firing and running well?

There is a Camshaft position sensor inside the distributor and if this is failing then the timing would be off. It needs to synchronize with the Crankshaft Position Sensor that is located on the end of the crank near the front oil pan seal...you should see a connector with wires coming from the end of the crank...if the two sensors can not synchronize then you could have a no/hard start condition...


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