Replacing Alternator.

So I'm replacing the alternator in my 99 Blazer. Anyone have tips for making the process smoother? I know it was a pain in the ass having to replace the alternator on my Kia. Though the Blazer's is in a much friendlier location. So in short what parts do I/should I remove prior to working on the alternator?

Hi, pull the idler arm back and remove the serpentine belt. I used a 3/8 rachet with an extension. Two bolts hold the alt on the block. disconnect the harness. Real easy.

wash rinse and repeat

Thanks much. She's running sweet again.

I replaced my alternator over this past weekend. At idle it sounds normal, at higher RPMs (while driving, 2000 to 2500) there is squeel sound (I would say a wobble squeel, if I knew what a wobble squeel was).

Naturally I bought a rebuilt lifetime warranty alternator at O'Reilly. Since it was my first experience with a serpentine built I had a few minor mishaps where I didn't get everything in line prior to "releasing" idle arm/pulley. After a couple of attempts everything was where it should be. While celebrating my success I decided to fire the ol' Blazer up. Wow, it is holding its charge again, but when driving it squeels.

I thought about getting a loud exhaust to cover up the sound, but decided I would ask if anybody had any better ideas. By sound I would guess the bearings on the alternator but..........maybe you guys have a better idea or something else to check.

Thanks,

Did you replace the belt as well? It is quite possible that the nice clean pulley on the new alt is causing the belt to slip and squeal. I recommend either a Gate belt or Goodyear Gatorback. I'm running a gatorback on my Bravada.

The gatorbacks have a tread pattern much like the tread on a tire. For my supercharger belt on my Bonneville, the gatorback resists slipping much more than a regular belt.

For the price of a belt, and considering what its running, I replace mine once every other year and keep the old one in the jack compartment in the back of my Bravada. I also have a cheap breaker bar back there that I can use to replace the belt or to pull off the lugs to change a tire if necessary.

No, I didn't replace the belt. I do agree it is a pretty cheap attempt and something that is needed to be done even if it doesn't solve the issue. I'd say it has been several years since it was replaced. I remembere reading that you like Gatorbelts. I'll try to find one.

I know where to get one. It's in the back of some dudes Olds.....

Now it is a problem of driving to Western NY from Missouri or down to the Autozone. However I know the guy in NY with the Olds will have the right belt. The kids at Autozone...........well you just never know.

Gator back belts, hmmm..........oh well this will be easier than the alternator.

If you wanted to verify that it is the belt, you could buy a can of belt dressing, but belt dressing shouldn't be used for a permanent fix. It will cause the belt to degrade much more quickly even though it may make it bite better. The problem is that the belt dressing is probably half the cost of a new belt. I'd rather buy the belt, especially if it hasn't been replaced in quite awhile.

*EDIT* - Autozone has the gatorback belt for your truck PN 4060952 $27.99
Advanced Auto has the gatorback belt PN 4060952 $28.99
Advanced Auto has the Dayco (another very good, but expensive brand) PN 5060950 $35.94

All prices and PNs are w/ AC

quote:

ORIGINAL: 4lowlife
I know where to get one. It's in the back of some dudes Olds.....

LOL. Yeah, you could have my old one, but I removed it because it was squealling in the rain!

Could not find the Olds in Western NY, so I bought a gator back belt and installed it. While it did cost $32.99 plus tax, it cured the noise. Now it is nice and quite, well the belt is. I have other noises, so I'll try another thread for those (since they are not related to the alternator replacement).

Did you disconnect the battery first? And also, what's this I have read about GM cars needing a code for the stereo if the power is cut?

I'm not sure on what years but, alot of your stereos now a days have an anti-theft code. So if the radio is stolen (removed from power) there's a code you have to put in to get it to power on. It's a theft detourant and there's no "Dealer Code" you'll usually have to take it back to a dealership which in turn will probably send it out somewhere for them to whipe the eeprom on there and reset it back...but... try all the obvious ones.. 0000 1111 2222 and so on....;)

ya there was a code on mine but it said it in the owners manual for mine

I replaced mine a couple years ago. It's easy. It's only held on by two bolts I think. 15mm if I remember right. Anyway, take the tension off of your tensioner pulley with a pry bar or something like that to slip the belt off. Take out the bolts, disconnect the wire connector in the back of the alternator, and there you go. You should probably change the belt while you're at it. It only costs about $10 for a new one, and it's well worth it to change. It should take you less than 30 minutes to do the whole job.

Mine was 2 bolts holding alternator onto bracket and then one on the back goin' to a stablizer bar that went to the side of the block.. VERY easily accessed.... 20 min. I think it took me... I wish ALL cars were that easy to change the alternator.....HAHAHAHA

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Mine was 2 bolts holding alternator onto bracket and then one on the back goin' to a stablizer bar that went to the side of the block.. VERY easily accessed.... 20 min. I think it took me... I wish ALL cars were that easy to change the alternator.....HAHAHAHA

I second that.

It was nice to work at arms reach and not upside down on a stone driveway. I have those big R/R size rocks in the barn.

I have gotten pretty good at replaceing my alternator. I bought a rebuilt one and about every 10 months it starts squeeking again. Luckilly I only paid for it once.