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Shock Question

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samurai_24
11/9/2006 11:42:29 AM
My 2000 Blazer 4WD LT bounces down the interstate. It feels like I'm riding in a boat. I've been told that it's probably the shocks. So, my questions are:

A. Is this true?
B. If it is true, do I just need to change the front shocks, or all 4?
C. What shocks do you guys recommend? I don't tow anything, and do mostly city/hwy driving with the occasional dirt road etc.

Thanks!
20Blazer00
11/9/2006 2:03:43 PM
Any LT (Light Truck) gas charged shock will work for your situations. Monroe or Gabriel are good brands. No need to go for the Rancho/Edlbrock/Skyjackers if you are not a serious off road demon.
Binz316
11/9/2006 2:09:52 PM
sounds like worn shocks to me, the first thing if you have more than 50000 miles on your current shocks most experts will recommend that they need replaced. However thats not always the case, they can last much longer than that quite often. But if your bouncing like you said you were, then your probably due and you might as well do all 4; its really not difficult at all. I just did my 02' a couple weeks back and I installed Gabriel Max-Control after much reading and debate and I can honestly say they were well worth the money. My truck corners and steers better than it ever has, but there are plenty of other shocks that will do just fine and cost a little less. For instance, a lot of people have been pleased with monro sensa trac, so choose wisely. Also if you don't feel comfortable doing the swap I called the nearby Midas and they wanted 18 per shock to install if you carry in your own shocks....not too bad but still if you have a little wrenching knowledge it can be done in your own garage.
swartlkk
11/9/2006 2:26:02 PM
Yup, definitely sounds like worn shocks. I had the same symptoms when I purchased my Bravada. I put Monroe Reflex shocks up front (stiffer than stock replacements) and Monroe SensaTrak with load assist coil over springs in the rear (I carry a lot of tools 300+lbs). If you want the stock ride back, go with the Sensatrak shocks on all 4 corners. They aren't too terribly expensive either and fairly easy to replace in your driveway.
samurai_24
11/9/2006 2:29:23 PM
Thanks for the info. Yeah, I have about 90K on it. I was looking at autozone for parts, would Gabriel Pro Guards be advised? They are $20 each. The next step up are the Gabriel ULTRA for $32.
Binz316
11/9/2006 2:44:47 PM
I'm sure the pro guards will do just fine, any new shock is going to stop that thing from bouncing which is going to be an improvement already.
samurai_24
11/13/2006 10:39:59 AM
One more question.... I've got the haynes manual, and it basically says to raise the vehicle, remove the lower shock mounting bolts, collapse the shock, remove the upper bolt, and remove the shock and replace it. Is it really that easy? Don't I have to remove anything from the front end first to access it? What steps do you guys take to change shocks in the front and rear? Is this something I can do in my own garage or do you suggest taking it in to a shop? I'm decent with a wrench, but don't want to end up spending 8 hours changing these.
Binz316
11/13/2006 1:09:49 PM
it is pretty straight-forward. I did remove the front tires to make it a little more accessible, but the rear I didn't remove either one. Its not bad.
swartlkk
11/13/2006 2:24:30 PM
Yup, as Bin said, I removed the front tires, for better access, but I didn't even jack up the back of the truck. Just left it sitting on the ground. I did the swap in a friends paved driveway. Not bad at all.
samurai_24
11/14/2006 3:16:17 PM
Is it safe to reuse the old bolts and nuts? The new shocks didn't come with any.
rooster
11/14/2006 4:52:36 PM
one of the simplest jobs ive ever done to the blazer, i also left the rears on, but it does help to take the fronts off for leverage on the top bolt. plus ive keep the same hardware, as long as they dont seem stripped or bent/cracked ur golden. but the rear hardware is standard sizes so u can easily pick them up at any hardware store. would help if u brought the old ones with u for cross reference.


by the way if u plan on jacking up one end at a time; make sure you set your 4wd(if equipped) in 4hi for safety when u do the rear, u dont want it rolling on you.
pilgrim
11/14/2006 5:09:35 PM
The rears are easy, but to do the fronts you'll want to put the front end on jackstands and remove the wheels. It takes strong arms, because as soon as you pull the bolts the shocks will expand - the fronts are "captive" in the area where they fit, so compressing them by hand to get them out calls on your arm muscles.

To get the new shock in, here's a hint: I compressed the shocks beside the car and used a loop of baling wire to hold them in the compressed position. I then put them in place and did my best to start the bolts before cutting and removing the wire. This saved a LOT of grunting and effort on my part.

Watch your fingers!
Hanr3
11/15/2006 12:14:34 AM
Better hint. Dont cut the retaining wire the came with until you have the shock in place.

Shocks are pretty wimple and staright forward, especially on teh Blazers. One bolt up top and one on bottom. In back you may find it easier to remove the spare tire. In back two bolts up top and one on bottom. Yes, you reuse all teh bolts.
samurai_24
11/16/2006 9:31:52 AM
Well, I got all 4 of them changed last night. The front ones were kind of a hassle to get in, but the rear ones were nice and easy. Thanks for you suggestions about taking off the front tires and the spare. It helped tremendously. And, NO MORE BOUNCE. I can feel the bumps more now, but it feels more like a truck instead of my old 79 caddy.
MNHawk
11/16/2006 2:41:56 PM
Hey now a 79 Caddy was a smooth ride (with a good suspention that is) LOL

I normally replace the bolts with Grade 8's and use anti-seize on them. Not like you pull them off that much, but helps when you do them again.
Binz316
11/16/2006 11:05:12 PM
good job man!
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