Where is the fuel pump relay?

Where is the fuel pump relay located on my 97 Blazer. Here is the story: I started the thing, unhooked the battery because I don't need it at the time (long story), then I tried to connect a seat motor connecter to a seat that came off a different car, and the Blazer just cut-off!!! It stopped working. I didn't even keep the two connectors connected a single second!

I guess that I just burned my fuel pump relay, right? Or could it be something else?

Thanks in advance

my guessis that you killed a fuse, wouldn't jump to a fuel relay by any means. Check your fuse panel, and check the connections at the battery. may just be not making full contact

I agree. Pluggin' in a different power seat motor wouldn't cause the entire truck to go dead unless it exposed an already weak connection. Check all of your connections and all of your fuses before jumping anything. Did you check the power seat motor with an ohm meter first to see if it was dead?

That sound like the wing bone must be connected to the leg bone?? If a seat wiring problem caused something, then a fuse or fusable link is where to check everything first. A relay can quit but I bet the wiring would have to be worked on first. Only one other possible way the fuel pump and a seat wiring error could get together. That would be if you somehow got into the wiring running TO THE PUMP, from the relay.

Yes it runs under the carpet, and could have been exposed near the seat wiring, but I have serious doubts about all that. At least from the way you tell it.

You have to make sure you have power to the relay. A link or fuse may be blown. I dont get how the battery was taken out ??? Was it after it was running? Did you actually remove the battery WHILE it was running? It's theoretically possible but when also working with electrical wires, having electricity on and battery disconnected could have caused al kinds of things.

You didnt hook it back up while running did you? Did you ever see smoke anywhere? My first fuseable link was a big surprise when it went in a puff of smoke.

Cant help with location at the moment. Last one I worked on much older. It was on the drivers side underhood, but near/above fenderwell.

quote:

ORIGINAL: blazingsadle

You didnt hook it back up while running did you?

Yes, the other day I did but it was fine and nothing happened. Is it bad?

So, no it is not the connection on the battery, I checked it right now.
It is not any fuse (at least the ones on the driver's side of the dash board) either.
I bought a new relay too and it was not that. Although, when I but the new one in and then I hooked up the battery, the Blazer did start but for like 5-10 seconds and then stopped and back the the same thing.

See, when I turn the ignition on, there is no sound from the fuel pump that used to be there. WHY?

Thanks for your time and effort guys!!!

Now it is just acting up!!! sometimes the fuel pump would make the pumping sound and sometimes it wouldn't!!! When I touch the wires on the floor where the driver's seat, it would make the sound and start but work for a little bit (10 seconds) and shut off! I don't know if it is the wiring or the relay because I touch that thing too and it would do the weird thing also.

I don't know, I'm confused!!!

Pump must be going. Time for a new one.

I don' know...

If and when the car is ACTUALLY cranking, the pump will continue to pump if the oil pressure fuel control switch is working properly.

Let me say that another way. If you simply turn on your key in a car that is all wired up and NORMAL, you should only hear the pump run for a short time. In other words it is not cranking. The oil pressure fuel switch is a switch that passes electricity TO THE RELAY. There is also a circuit to PRIME the pump and lines, this will stop working after 5-10 seconds. At that point, if you are cranking the motor the other circuit should take over. A complete ckt is fully in effect once you are cranking. BUT ONLY IF YOU HAVE NORMAL OIL PRESSURE. The switch will function and make a complete ckt only if it reaches about 8-15 pounds of oil pressure. The amount of pressure is not known for sure to me, but aftermarket units just like it will function at about those numbers.

HENCE, the question by another poster about "oil"??? Or, put another way, does the motor really have oil pressure or is the pressure switch bad?? I'd get a book and bypass that item if you think the engine is OK.

The hooking and unhooking of the battery is not recommended on computer cars for a simple reason. It may "spike" by a certain small amount the computers main supply. It is a well protected system, but why look for trouble?? The main battery in an automobile is also an essential part of the voltage filter system after the alternator. It helps make the DC true. The condition of an alternator can vary quite a bit. The battery helps regulate matters.

When I touch the wires on the floor where the driver's seat, it would make the sound and start but work for a little bit


So was I right and you are into the fuel pump wires on the floor of the car? Just put them back together and use the system like you should.

OR, are you trying to bypass the whole mess? Ask the right way to do that and I'll end up giving you a ckt that is very similar to the factory one.

I would like to piggy back on the above.

You can pull the wirs off the oil pressure sending unit/ oil pressure switch and the truck will run just fine. HOWEVER you just rmoved your low oil safety feature. If your engine is low on oil, you risk buring up a bearing and then a costly rebuild. The oil sneders are part of the fuel pump cuicuit for a reason. No oil and they kill the fuel pump so the engine wont fry.

It sounds to me as if the fuel pump power wire is about to break in half. You may have to pull up some carpet to verify.

Yeah I dont quite get how the wire under the carpet is doing? FIX IT.

Another good reason for the safety involving oil pressure is fairly simple to understand and I hope lots of you read this part.

If your car is in a wreck and the motor konks out like it would in many a front end collision; it shuts off the fuel pump.. The most likely place for a leak in a front end wreck is right next to all that electrical junk, under the hood. Its real wise for the fuel to stop right away when the engine stalls.

This safety device was actually being used on dragstrips before it went onto regular cars. I dont remember it being required, but I certainly remember a real solid need for it being required. I was heavily in favor of the 20 dollar switch but most folks didnt want it.

Most of us used heavy duty mechanical pumps, but some of the A and B stock classes would cheat with electric backups. In other words, we had electric fuel pumps in stock cars. They needed to because standing things on end would cause fuel supply problems. The problem was, no one wanted to admit they used them.

Watched a 70 hemi cuda pump about most of a tank full of fuel onto the ground when the girlfriend of the owner was getting gas on her own. Attendant made her turn car off, I dont think she was supposed too? Somehow the pump stayed on when she shut down the car. Too much already on the ground to simply start it back up. Shut off (turn on switch) was a secret (to us and her, anyway)and not anywhere in sight. Non of us could shut the darn thing off. Just hosed the drive. Kept away the gawkers.

Good place for a 20 dollar (plus handling charge at summit) item.

I'm sorry, I didn't word all that right and I confused myself already
I will start from the beginning and try to explain it better this time.

I connected the battery to the engine. Started the engine. Disconnected the battery and I think I left the engine running for like 30min on idle. Then I put a seat inside from my 2000 blazer (I didn't have anything inside of it) and tried to connect the 97 connector that's on the floor, to the seat connector. Right that instant the engine cut off! I don't know if it was me trying to connect the seat shut the engine off or was it the too much voltage to the fuel pump.

I change the oil it the blazer about 2 days ago, so I don't think it is the oil pressure thing. Not sure though.

I think that the problem is in some relay or fuse or something like that, maybe the fuel pump died. But then again, it started 3 times today and worked for about 5sec. and cut off. If it was the fuel pump, wouldn't it not work AT ALL? All fuses are good.

Any thoughts?

About the wiring under the seat, I don't know if it has anything to do with it. I tried that now and it don't work anymore, so ignore it. I highly doubt the problem is in that.

Hey "blazingsadle" Can I reach you at AOL? maybe it would be easier to talk about this.

Was thinking aobut your harness under the drivers seat.
Are you trying to connect teh black box or an electric seat?

I am not too familiar with the black box and its functions, however it is located under the drivers seat.

quote:

ORIGINAL: blazingsadle

Watched a 70 hemi cuda pump about most of a tank full of fuel onto the ground when the girlfriend of the owner was getting gas on her own. Attendant made her turn car off, I dont think she was supposed too? Somehow the pump stayed on when she shut down the car. Too much already on the ground to simply start it back up. Shut off (turn on switch) was a secret (to us and her, anyway)and not anywhere in sight. Non of us could shut the darn thing off. Just hosed the drive. Kept away the gawkers.

i remember those days.
Had a 442 Olds, and a 69 Chevelle myself. Buddy had the Secretaries car. And another buddy like the cudas and challengers. another liked the AMC Javelin, and then there were a few that liked the old boats. Not too mention a few were into the custom vans. Ah, the good old days.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Hanr3

Was thinking aobut your harness under the drivers seat.
Are you trying to connect teh black box or an electric seat?

I am not too familiar with the black box and its functions, however it is located under the drivers seat.

Black box? what is that? I was trying to connect the electric seat. Why does the fuel pump sometimes work and sometimes doesn't work (make buzzing sound)? If it was a fuse or a relay then it wouldn't work at all, right? I did buy a new fuel pump relay but dropped it on the floor (accidentally), would it still work or I have to get a new one? I don't know much about relays but maybe something broke off inside of it and now it ether makes contact or doesn't (the possible explanation for my intermittent buzzing of fuel pump).

Any guesses of what could it be?

Oh, another thing, in my glove compartment, I have 3 relays there. One is grey (fuel pump relay) and other two are black, what are those for? Is there any more relays or fuses (except in the side of the dash) in my 97 blazer like under the hood or anywhere else???

Thanks again!

I HATE THIS STUPID BLAZER!!!

I started right up this morning! I let it run for 10 minutes on idle. Then I drive it forward about 100-200 feet, put it in reverse and it would go but very hard, like something is holding it. I then came backwards those 100-200 feet (back to my garage) and the engine shut off!?!?!?!?!?! I don't understand why?

I looked at my tranny fluid level (dipstick) and it was at the very bottom (hardly any oil). But I put a gallon in there before. The engine oil level is way high above the maximum. I don't know why this is and if that is causing the stall and not start again.

Someone please help!?

LOL It's got a demon in it. Call the local pastor to get it exorcised!

Sorry for laughing at your situation, but there are some serious and VERY random issues with that truck... Something got messed up and good at some point.

Was the thing ever running good? If so, what EXACTLY did you do between the last time you had it running right and now (EVERYTHING that you did!)?

Well, thought I'd add this. If your oil is over full, drain it out and fill it back up with the proper amount of oil. Fill your trans up to the proper level and then monitor the levels if you can get it running.

This may be a stupid question, but you did dump the tranny fluid into the trans dip-stick tube right?... Not into the valve cover on the engine...

And when you say that it backed up hard, does this mean that you had to give it a lot of gas to get it to back up? or does it mean that it was sluggish and the engine was having trouble getting it to move?

Yeah I had to give it a lot of gas to get it moving backwards. I bought the truck without an engine and put a 2000 engine and tranny in it. The engine is fine. The pump doesn't want to work right, I don't know if that is computer that is causing that or the pump is dead. Is there any way to reset the computer and its codes?

Thanks for reply

see your other thread for my reply.

Also, you didn't happen to notice if your parking brake was on did you? Some parking brake designs hold harder in reverse than they do in forward if they are not fully applied. You may have pushed down on the parking brake when doing the other work and not noticed it.

No the brake is not on.