I did NOT write this i simply took the info found on this url: http://www.blazinlow.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59904and posted it here for easy viewing. I take no credit, all credit goes to whoever made it on that forum.

TAKE CAUTION WHILE WELDING OR GRINDING NERE THE GAS TANK, THE FUMES ARE WHAT IGNITES THE GAS!!!!!

Parts List:
1. Fuel Filler Hose with Wire Coil in Hose (I think it’s sold in 3ft lengths)
2. Vent Hose (it will need to be the same length)
3. Two 1in. Piano Hinges
4. Cabinet Latch
5. Gas Door Filler Plate (I got mine from Suicidedoors.com)

I also went ahead and replaced all of my hose clamps also; if you deiced to replace them you will need two for the Filler Hose and two for Vent Hose.


Step 1:
Remove gas door and disconnect filler from the body. Either disconnect the fuel hose from tank and cover hole or pull filler hose done under the trunk floor so it is away from where you are going to be cutting and welding.

Then remove the taillight, along with the interior panels and carpet to expose the fuel hose tunnel and the wiring harness for the taillight. Once this is done I also disconnect the taillight wiring harness and move the rest of the wiring out of the way.

Step 2:
Locate the area in which you want filler to come through the taillight housing. REMEMBER you do not want to have your filler located in a position that will not allow the gas pump nozzle to fit, the higher the better.

Next you will want to cut out the area on the taillight housing and cut a hole in the fuel filler tunnel in order to allow the new fuel line to come through. I found it easier to cut out a larger area then you think you will then make filler panels to close everything back up once the filler is in its position.

Step 3:
This is the most time-consuming part, hinging the taillight. When I did this I looked at both the back of the taillight and the body to find the best spot to mount the hinges. I mounted one towards the top and one at the bottom. Take you time hinging it, this will make a difference of making look like crap and making it perfect. The key is to make it look stock. Once the taillight is hinged you can mount the latch.

Step 4:
I reused the stock metal portion of the filler neck. I had to slightly modify it to make it work. I welded on a mounting tab to it so it could bolt to the body on the inside, and I also had to cut some off the bottom. (I can’t remember how much since I did this along time ago) You want to get the neck in the position you want before you start building your new panels. You will want the filler cap slightly recessed that way the taillight has room to close. As you can see on mine I built a recessed pocket for it.

Step 5:
Weld in gas door filler plate. Then I built and welded in the new body panels.

MISC THINGS**
Screws get screwed onto the side of the tailight lense, use a small screw and no screw will be shown threw the lense
Works for all Gens
since you have to replace the filler hose, when you remove the hose you just cap it off at the tank. then you are good to go, don't use a rag to plug it(or you'll have a vehicle sized molotov cocktail when it catches fire) insted use a old leather glove or something flame resistant.
If possible the safest route would be to take the tank off and put it out of the way of any sparks or flame.[/align]
[/align]Pictures:


Hinges:


Latch:


Recessed Pocket:


Filler neck hole cut


Filler roughed in


Primed


Tunnel cut and patch pannel in


Filler neck installed


another view


Tailight hinged closed


another


Taillight open


better view open


hinges


another shot of hinges (sideways pic


hinges again


pocket


last one
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MISC. PICS