4x4
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4x4 - 12/6/2005 4:00:35 PM
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haloboy99
Posts: 9
Joined: 12/6/2005
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this may be a stupid question but i have a 93 blaxer 4x4 and i want to know if i can shift it into 4hi while i am driving?
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RE: 4x4 - 12/6/2005 4:30:15 PM
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haloboy99
Posts: 9
Joined: 12/6/2005
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it has a shift
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RE: 4x4 - 12/6/2005 5:05:22 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 15292
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
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My '85 S10 4x4 Pickup had the shifter on the floor and was shift-on-the-fly. You just need to make sure that you aren't spinning any tires when you shift it in, and don't shift it into neutral, duh...
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RE: 4x4 - 12/7/2005 2:01:05 AM
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Annekat91
Posts: 78
Joined: 3/3/2005
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I'm glad someone asked, as I've been wondering, too. The owner's manual for my '91, which has the shift lever on the floor, says you can shift into 4HI while driving. But the guy who sold it to me said even though the book said that, he preferred to stop before shifting. Was he being overly cautious? The book didn't say anything about a speed limit for shifting on the fly, or about spinning tires, but it did say that it would engage faster if you ease up on the gas pedal a little while shifting.
We got some snow and ice last week in western Washington, so I used 4HI a little. I was nervous about shifting on the fly, so stopped and shifted the first time. Later, I did it without stopping while going fairly slow. Would there be anything wrong with doing it at, say 40 or 50 mph? And is there a speed limit at which you should be driving in 4HI?
4LO will be another adventure for another time, but I do have the directions in the manual.
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RE: 4x4 - 12/7/2005 12:42:57 PM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
Posts: 3523
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Push button and floor shift can be shifted into 4hi while driving. Not recommended at speeds over 55mph, not like your going to be going faster then 55 when you need 4hi anyways. The recommendation to reduce pressure on the gas peddle is to relieve some of the torque running through the gears when it shifts. Provides for a smoother shift. Stopping to shift into 4hi is being overly causitous.
4lo is a different story and usually people confuse getting into 4lo with getting in to 4hi. You must have the tranny in nuetral and going slower then 5mph to shift into 4lo. I prefer to be moving a couple mph when shifting into 4lo, lets the gears mesh easier. Can be done at a complete stop. Careful when you shift into 4lo, your truck WILL lurch when you shift the tranny into gear. Also realize that you should not exceed 25-30 mph while in 4lo. 4lo is a power gear, and your truck will walk away if you don't have the brakes on. Don't leave it in gear and get out, by time you turn around the truck won't be where you left it. 
_____________________________
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: 4x4 - 12/7/2005 10:25:16 PM
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Annekat91
Posts: 78
Joined: 3/3/2005
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Thanks for the reply, Hanr3. I now feel more confident using 4HI and am almost looking forward to it snowing again if we should be so lucky, ha, ha. It's amazing how many people around here drive SUVs or other 4WD vehicles but don't get much of a chance to use it unless they're skiers or offroaders. Of course, a lot of them have AWD now, too. And I always found front wheel drive cars to do pretty well in the small amount of snow we usually get around here. And then there was my '71 VW Squareback with the rear air-cooled engine and rear wheel drive.... it was a champ in snowy and icy conditions!
Thanks for the advice on 4LO. I think my manual says to stop before doing it, as well as to put it in neutral, so that's what I'll probably do. It also cautions to shift in a steady, smooth motion without hesitating between 4HI and 4LO, otherwise the gears will clash. I tried this during the summer, and it was difficult, I think it took both hands to do it, and the gears did clash a bit the first time I tried it. Then I successfully did it in a smooth, non-clashing motion, and up the driveway I went. Makes me a little nervous, though, so should practice some more.
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RE: 4x4 - 12/8/2005 12:12:31 PM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
Posts: 3523
Joined: 5/11/2005
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I always go from 4hi to neautral, wait a few seconds, and then into 4lo. This avoids the clash...
One thing to remember, I prefer to tell people to drive in 4wdr like you would while in 2wdr in the same conditions. Having 4wdr will not make you stop any faster then a 2wdr. 4wdr means you can go in more places then a 2wdr. Doesn't mean you can go faster.
_____________________________
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: 4x4 - 12/9/2005 12:31:52 PM
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Annekat91
Posts: 78
Joined: 3/3/2005
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Thanks. Hmm..... I'l have to try that.
Yes, going slow is the first rule, no matter what you drive, and most people around here seem to realize that. I would sure hate to endanger myself or my Blazer by being in a hurry, and I always watch out for the other guy or gal who may have an attitude, not be thinking clearly, or is driving in snow for the first time.
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RE: 4x4 - 12/9/2005 1:57:48 PM
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wvpurplejimmygirl
Posts: 14
Joined: 12/9/2005
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I just bought a purple 1996 GMC Jimmy from a friend. It snowed 5 inches last night and I never got to test the 4 wheel drive till now. Well it dosen't work............ I have no clue what to do. I have 3 little girls and spending a lot of money this month on them. Don't really have the money to see a mechanic. Can anyone help me????? Give a few ideas? ? ? I have friends that will fix it, if they knew what to do....Please help me
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RE: 4x4 - 12/9/2005 2:06:52 PM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
Posts: 3523
Joined: 5/11/2005
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Welcome to the site.
Congrats on the kids, they are the best mod.
I hear ya on money this time of year. I have 2 sons. The older they get the more expensive the presents cost. My oldest is 21, and the youngest is 17. I spent a fortune on Christmas this year. Close to 2K by time its all said and done.
What happens when you push the button, anything? Does the light for 4hi come on, flash, etc?
_____________________________
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: 4x4 - 12/9/2005 2:11:12 PM
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wvpurplejimmygirl
Posts: 14
Joined: 12/9/2005
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Thanks.....Yes the light does come on for hi and low. But no 4 wheel drive
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RE: 4x4 - 12/9/2005 2:49:54 PM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
Posts: 3523
Joined: 5/11/2005
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That is good news.
The next thing to verify to see if it is working is the front driveshaft.
Push the button to put it in 4hi, put the truck in park, kneel down and grab the front driveshaft, try to spin it. If it doesn't spin then the modulator is locking the t-case in gear and the drivesahft is engaged. If not then it could be your modulator. However more then liekly since the light is coming on, I suspect your modulator is working and it should be engaging the front driveshaft. All good.
IF were all good to this point, its getting cheaper to fix. Plus you are getting to the more common problem and easiest to repair.
It could be a vacuum line that is cracked, broken, or fallen off.
There should be 3 vacuum lines that run to the top of the t-case.
One is a vent line and it goes into the engine compartment by the battery.
The second should be a vacuum line that supplies vacuum to the system and it goes intot he engine compartment behind the engine on the passengers side, although it ties into the vacuum ball in teh engine compartment too. I am guessing your heater controls work fine, in other words when y ou move the levers the air comes out of the different vents, like all up top by the windshield, or split between the windshield and floor, etc. If not it helps determine where the vacuum leak is.
The third line goes to the vacumm actuator which controls the front axle engagement. Teh actuator is located under the battery. The battery and battery tray need to be removed to gain access to teh actuator. Make sure it holds pressure. You can take the hose off, assuming it hasn't fallen off. IF it did fall off, more then likely that might be your problem. As I was saying, you can take the hose off, put your thumb over the hole and push on the diaphram with your fingers. If you feel resistence it is holding vacuum. To verify, leave your thumb off the hole and move the diaphram with your fingers, place your thumb over the hole, and let the diaphram go, it should stay in place, if not it is leaking and needs to be replaced.
If the diaphram (vacuum modualtor) is in good shape, I would suspect one of your vacuum lines is cracked, broken, or has fallen off. Replacing the hose is cheap (less then a $1 per foot normally) The hose just pushes into place, can be a pain to trace around the engine compartment, and it usually breaks off at the fittings, like behind the intak manifold where it is hard to see. You cna listen for the leak with some of the new vacuum hose. Cut off about a 4' piece, place one end next to your ear, and move the other end around the engine compartment. Carefull of moving and hot parts. The hose doesn't need to be straight to work, so you can turn your head and watch where your hand is. Just don't kink the hose. When you hear a sssssss sound, you found your leak. Repalce with new hose.
There is a temp fix, if your interested.
When ever you need to engage the front axle, push the button. Open the hood and pull the cable out and attache a pair of vise grips to hold tha cable out. As long as the vise grips are there your front axle is engaged, even if you push the button for 2wdr, the front axle will still be engaged, make sure to disengage it before driving on dry pavement. The cable is attached to the other end of the vacuum actuator under the battery, you might have to temporary disconnect it and place it somewhere where it won't get damaged.
I have attached a few pics of the actuator so you know what it looks like, and a pic with the actuator removed so you can see what the cable looks like. These pics are from my '87 S10-Blazer. The actuator on teh '87 is next to the battery, not under it like the newer models. Please ask if you don't understand or have more questions. There is a lot of info here and most won't make sense until you see things in front of you, hence the pics. IF the cost of repairs gets over $50 you should seriously consider replacing the vacuum
< Message edited by Hanr3 -- 12/9/2005 2:51:58 PM >
_____________________________
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: 4x4 - 12/12/2005 8:38:51 AM
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wvpurplejimmygirl
Posts: 14
Joined: 12/9/2005
Status: offline
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That diaphram (black piece does have slits in it. Not sealed completely. All the vacuum lines seem to work fine. What do you think is the cost of replacing that?
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RE: 4x4 - 12/12/2005 11:51:32 AM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
Posts: 3523
Joined: 5/11/2005
Status: offline
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Not sure, someone said it was like $70. Although I bet you could get one from a junk yard pretty cheap. They either work or don't.
_____________________________
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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