Heater issues - Help I just moved to Boston from Arizona!!!
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Heater issues - Help I just moved to Boston from Arizon... - 12/9/2005 10:30:25 AM
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01LSBlazer
Posts: 5
Joined: 12/9/2005
Status: offline
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I wanted to see if anyone here had any advice for me, I am a student and as I just moved here to Boston, so I don't have a lot of money to get my car fixed (who does). Also I just moved here from Arizona and it is snowing here, so obviously, I have quite a problem on my hands!
I have a 01 LS Blazer 2 Dr (non 4wd), 66000 miles. It has the manual (twist knob) heat. No matter how I turn it (hot or cold, A/C, vent, floor, defrost, etc), only cold air comes out, the blower works fine. The car drives normally, everything else functions fine and the temp guage reacts as you would expect (does not get too hot or overheat).
Recently had winshield replaced, recent full tune up etc, just before I noticed it went out. It seems the heat was working awesomely (very strong) last time I used it (although that was last Jan)
I was thinking some type of connection might have came undone? I checked all the fuses etc for the systems and everything is fine there.
I searched the forum for threads on this topic, and the only post that looked like it might apply to my problem is this one http://www.blazerforum.com/m_252/tm.htm
I don't know that I would be able to do this (flush core and hoses) myself as I don't have anywhere not outside on the street to work on the car. How much should I get charged for this if really thinks this is the problem.
Thank you all in advance for your help. I appreciate it.
< Message edited by 01LSBlazer -- 12/9/2005 10:31:41 AM >
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RE: Heater issues - Help I just moved to Boston from Ar... - 12/9/2005 10:47:29 AM
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01LSBlazer
Posts: 5
Joined: 12/9/2005
Status: offline
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I just read this great post (below)
I will go see how long it takes to get up to operating temp, and check the hoses to the heater core (I should be able to find them I think) and report back what I find (probably won't post results till later today/tomorrow)
quote:
ORIGINAL: swartlkk
well, only check the thermostat if it is slow to come up to operating temp (around 200*F - tstat is 195*F actuated). If you are getting no heat inside, first check both of the heater hoses and make sure that you are getting hot coolant into and out of the heater core. If both hoses are the same temp, then your heater core is mostlikely ok, but if one is measurably warmer than the other, then you may have a clogged heater core. Best way to remedy that situation is with a reverse flush. Unhook both hoses on the opposite end (away from the firewall). Remember which hose was the cold one and stick a garden hose into it. This should flush out any of the crap that could accumulate in the heater core. Keep the hose to it until clean/clear water comes out. If water won't flow through the core, or it flows VERY slowly, then you need to look at replacing the core ($$$).
Now if both hoses are the same temp, then you may have a problem with the heater door in the HVAC housing. The doors are run off of vacuum and sometimes you can either get a hole in the actuator diaphram or the hose could pop loose from either end. I am not sure if there is a bypass valve (that would make it bypass the heater core), but if there is, then that could also be a problem area.
Good Luck
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RE: Heater issues - Help I just moved to Boston from Ar... - 12/9/2005 10:48:46 AM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
Posts: 3523
Joined: 5/11/2005
Status: offline
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First thing to do is make sure your overflow bottle is full of anti-freeze. If not, fill it to the full line with straight anti-freeze. bEing you went from a warm climate to a cold climate you will need more anti-freeze to protect to colder temps.
If you have a radiator cap, take it off and add striaght anti-freeze to fill it up.
Once that is done, drive the truck, safely for about 5-10 minutes with the heat on full blast.
Let cool and check to make sure both the radiator, and overflow bottle are still full. IF not, add more anti-freeze until they are both full.
I suspect your low on fluid and you have air trapped in teh system. Best way to flush the air is by what I outlined above.
If that doesn't fix your problem, post up. We can walk you through other things to check.
_____________________________
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: Heater issues - Help I just moved to Boston from Ar... - 12/9/2005 10:50:03 AM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
Posts: 3523
Joined: 5/11/2005
Status: offline
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Hopefully you got my post before you left, it will tie in nicely with your second post.
By the way, welcome to the site. 
_____________________________
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: Heater issues - Help I just moved to Boston from Ar... - 12/9/2005 1:28:27 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 15291
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
Status: online
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Also, check the heater hoses. If they both are warm (one should be quite warm, borderline hot - the other not so much), then your problem lies with the mode door actuator in the dash. All of the door controls for the HVAC (heating/ventilation/air conditioning) are controlled by vacuum actuators.
A simple check to rule some things out would be to move your mode selector and verify that the air goes to the proper areas.
IE- When on defrost it blows out the vents below the windsheild, when on midlevel, it blows out the vents on the dash front, and when its on floor level, that it blows out the floor vents. You could go as far as to do bilevel and it should blow out the dash and floor vents. If any of them works, they all should work, but what that tells you is that your main vacuum line running into the HVAC system is connected and working. Side note... You must have the engine running to do this verification. If they don't work, then your problem is with the main vacuum line and is quite easy to fix.
If all of them work, then you may have to start pulling apart your dash to get to the vacuum lines inside. You can see some of them by dropping down the glove box. Open the glove box all the way. On the upper left corner, you'll feel a retaining hook. Push the glove box back in slightly and push the retaining hook out of the way, then pull the glovebox past. It should swing all the way to the floor. At this point, if you haven't already emptied your glovebox, gravity will have done the job for you. You can now see much of the HVAC housing.
I'll try to pull up some schematics of the vacuum line routing for you, but I can't do anything until later tonight.
Good luck. If you can get what I have said done before then I'll have a better picture of where to look for more information to help you out with your problem!
< Message edited by swartlkk -- 12/9/2005 1:54:32 PM >
_____________________________
Kyle-
My Restoration Projects
Please Do Not PM for Tech Help
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RE: Heater issues - Help I just moved to Boston from Ar... - 12/9/2005 1:57:53 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 15291
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
Status: online
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Ok, here's all of the information you should need:
#1 is the vacuum supply chart for basically all manual controls
Thumbnail Image
#2 is the vacuum supply chart for the auto climate controls
Thumbnail Image
#3 is the vacuum line routings for all of the manual controls
Thumbnail Image
#4 is the vacuum line routings for all of the auto climate controls
Thumbnail Image
 Attachment (4)
< Message edited by swartlkk -- 12/9/2005 1:58:32 PM >
_____________________________
Kyle-
My Restoration Projects
Please Do Not PM for Tech Help
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RE: Heater issues - Help I just moved to Boston from Ar... - 12/12/2005 8:13:41 AM
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01LSBlazer
Posts: 5
Joined: 12/9/2005
Status: offline
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Sorry to get back here so late. Had a little bit of a snowstorm friday (still got out to the car though) and have a final later today, so I was studying all weekend.
Turned on the car. Took normal time to warm up to operating temp (5-10 minutes). Turned on heat - nothing. All the vent configurations worked as normal though (ie, defogger through winshield, floor through floor, etc) Shut heat off it was making it colder. Popped the hood and checked the hoses. One seemed to be barely warmer than the other. I got back in the car for about 5 more minutes (it was snowing like crazy, but did not try to turn heat on during this stretch as it made it colder) Got back out and checked it again. Now the difference was more noticable. Got back in car again for 5 more minutes and checked one more time. Again even more noticable, temp difference between the two for sure.
So I assume it might be the blockage in the heater core swartlkk mentioned. Or was I supposed to have the heat on when checking the hoses?
Or perhaps is the air pocket Hanr3 also capable of causing this temp difference between the hoses? I did not read your response before I left, so I am not sure the coolant level. I can check it again in the next day or so. (The car is parked across town as there is no parking in my area in boston - long story)
Please let me know if you think it still might be a coolant bubble, or if it is for sure a blockage in the heater core at this point.
Thanks for the great posts guys!
quote:
ORIGINAL: Hanr3
First thing to do is make sure your overflow bottle is full of anti-freeze. If not, fill it to the full line with straight anti-freeze. bEing you went from a warm climate to a cold climate you will need more anti-freeze to protect to colder temps.
If you have a radiator cap, take it off and add striaght anti-freeze to fill it up.
Once that is done, drive the truck, safely for about 5-10 minutes with the heat on full blast.
Let cool and check to make sure both the radiator, and overflow bottle are still full. IF not, add more anti-freeze until they are both full.
I suspect your low on fluid and you have air trapped in teh system. Best way to flush the air is by what I outlined above.
If that doesn't fix your problem, post up. We can walk you through other things to check.
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