RE: 5 watt difference on a head unit?
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RE: 5 watt difference on a head unit? - 1/22/2006 12:54:16 PM
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85FSBSilverado
Posts: 64
Joined: 2/3/2005
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House electrical is different. Wire a stereo wrong, you might lose a stereo. Wire a house wrong, you might lose your house.
You wanna use solder and heat shrink, go ahead. It works great. I just can't spend that much time doing a wiring job. Especially since I usually take it appart in the next few weeks or months. I have a stereo harness sitting right here that I've used 3 or 4 times.
Just put a piece of heat shrink on the wire, solder the wires together, then put the heat shrink over it and use a heat gun to shrink it. As mentioned above.
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David Rusk Hess (55) 12/23/05 - RIP
'85 Blazer Silverado with a 305 and 33" tires.
Sony CD player with a Coustic 105A 4-ch; 2 Sony & 2 Jensen 6"x9" speakers. Pair of Jensen 10"s, Rockford amp.
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RE: 5 watt difference on a head unit? - 1/22/2006 1:33:46 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14532
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
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I'd venture a guess that I could wire up a stereo adapter faster using a wire stripper and crimp connectors than you could with your teeth, fingers, and electrical tape. And it would be a much better and longer lasting connection. Not to mention that the price of the butt connectors is probably equal with the amount of tape you waste. And in the end, you don't have to deal with all of the sticky left over adhesive.
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RE: 5 watt difference on a head unit? - 1/22/2006 1:50:34 PM
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FatRyan
Posts: 711
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From: Southampton, PA
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soldering is definatly the best way to do it, but if you know what your doing, taping it works great and is safe. ive done God knows how many deck installs and i always use tape, not cause im against solder, i just dont have a gun. you just need to make sure you twisted the wires tight and make sure you tape them very well. and make sure not to put any strain on them either. crimp connectors are the biggest joke ever. if youd pick them over taping, your crazy. those things NEVER hold the wire. they always slip out.
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RE: 5 watt difference on a head unit? - 1/22/2006 1:54:00 PM
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85FSBSilverado
Posts: 64
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Didn't have wire strippers, could only take 30sec. of video. I would've used my knife, but that would've taken longer. I wouldn't use those butt connectors if it was the last thing I had to use. Those things can pull apart easily. I know how to twist the wires to make my connections strong. I've had to cut the wires before because I have them twisted so tightly. I don't trust butt connectors. I spent 50 cents on tape, that's cheaper than 11+ connectors, which I believe cost over $1, and I have plenty of tape left over. You only get sticky adhesive when the tape has been on there for an extensive amount of time, mainly when it's in a high temperature and the adhesive starts to melt.
If I would've had my automatic wire strippers that I have now, I would've used them.
< Message edited by 85FSBSilverado -- 1/22/2006 1:58:45 PM >
_____________________________
David Rusk Hess (55) 12/23/05 - RIP
'85 Blazer Silverado with a 305 and 33" tires.
Sony CD player with a Coustic 105A 4-ch; 2 Sony & 2 Jensen 6"x9" speakers. Pair of Jensen 10"s, Rockford amp.
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RE: 5 watt difference on a head unit? - 1/22/2006 2:28:39 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14532
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
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I agree that butt connectors aren't the best thing to use, but I still think they are better than twisting and taping. You do have to use properly sized crimp connectors to do the job correctly. If you use too big of a connector, it'll never hold.
May I ask why you are swapping out your stereo every other week. That just seems weird.
*EDIT* - Also, the last butt connectors I used would never come apart. 3M makes crimp on connectors with shrink wrap that also has a heat activated adhesive. When bought from the right place, they are much cheaper than the tape required and will last every bit as long as even solder and heat shrink tubing.
< Message edited by swartlkk -- 1/22/2006 2:30:54 PM >
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Kyle-
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RE: 5 watt difference on a head unit? - 1/22/2006 2:34:13 PM
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85FSBSilverado
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Something better. Had a JVC touchscreen in my Cougar, switched to the Bronco and the silver stereo didn't match the interior, so I got a Kenwood. Kenwood sucked bad, so I sold it and got a black JVC touchscreen. I liked it a lot, but saw the Clarion full-color touchscreen and thought it looked cool. Got that, but it sucked as bad at sound quality as the Kenwood. Sold it and had some other stereos in there along the way that I bought and traded along the way, then I got my current JVC KD-DV5100. It's pretty nice, but right now it's having problems playing MP3/WMA disks. So I'll have to send it back to get warrantied.
_____________________________
David Rusk Hess (55) 12/23/05 - RIP
'85 Blazer Silverado with a 305 and 33" tires.
Sony CD player with a Coustic 105A 4-ch; 2 Sony & 2 Jensen 6"x9" speakers. Pair of Jensen 10"s, Rockford amp.
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RE: 5 watt difference on a head unit? - 1/22/2006 2:38:31 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14532
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From: Waterloo, NY
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WOW... Can't say I've ever had the need to swap out stereos anywhere near that frequently.
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Kyle-
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RE: 5 watt difference on a head unit? - 1/23/2006 4:20:41 PM
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Canadian88
Posts: 489
Joined: 11/23/2005
From: Detroit
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So, what i gathered from all this is that it's basically just connecting wires from the car to the wires from the stereo. How many are there? about twelve-ish? Am i right? How about the actual mounting of the stereo? I know it comes with some sort of bracket type thing. Pointers would be much appreciated.
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2003 4.3L 2WD Blazer 2DR K&N air filter
Alpine S-type speakers in all 4 corners
Damplifier behind all speakers and in cargo area
Alpine CDA-9856 (iPod interface)
Alpine 10" type S Sub with 400W Alpine MRP-M450 amp www.secondskinaudio.com
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RE: 5 watt difference on a head unit? - 1/23/2006 7:29:09 PM
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85FSBSilverado
Posts: 64
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Go to Wal-Mart, CCity, BBuy, anywhere, but Wal-Mart is probably the cheapest. Get a wiring harness and a mounting harness. Wiring harness is about $6-8, and mounting harness will be from about $9-18 depending on which one and what store you get it from. Mounting harnesses differ, I'm not sure on this particular one.
You're gonna have to take off that whole trim piece around your stereo. You ought to be able to take that off with a phillips screwdriver, might need a socket set and a trim removal tool (if you have one). I haven't taken one of these apart, but Chevy's are usually a P.I.T.A. to do. Usually have to remove part of the dash. But take this piece off around the gauges and the stereo, and it should come off. Check for a couple screws above the gauge faces. You might need to remove some of the wiring harnesses if you need to take the panel away to do this. On my brother's Cavalier and friends' 1500 pickup there are some clips on the side, so once you have your stereo wired, and have the harness put together (if it's like I think, you'll have to use a pair of screws and screw the side clips onto the main harness), you just go outside, take off your front dash panel, disconnect your stereo, there might be a ground wire bolted to the back of that stereo, which you'll need to connect your ground wire to, connect your new one, and slide the assembly into place. Then it'll be working.
You can disconnect your battery, but if you're not messing around with wires, and just have the harnesses, there's no need. Your wires might be extra long, so you can cut them down if you want to. I usually leave them at about 6" on either harness, so they can be used again. Make sure you tape up or cover any extra wires that you won't be using. You don't want them to ground out on anything.
< Message edited by 85FSBSilverado -- 1/23/2006 7:30:03 PM >
_____________________________
David Rusk Hess (55) 12/23/05 - RIP
'85 Blazer Silverado with a 305 and 33" tires.
Sony CD player with a Coustic 105A 4-ch; 2 Sony & 2 Jensen 6"x9" speakers. Pair of Jensen 10"s, Rockford amp.
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RE: 5 watt difference on a head unit? - 1/23/2006 8:39:33 PM
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Canadian88
Posts: 489
Joined: 11/23/2005
From: Detroit
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Thanks for the input. So walmart will have a harness and mount specific to my vehicle? Cool. How does this attach to the dash? I know what you mean about the trim piece on the dash. I know how that thing comes off. From what you described, it sounds easier than i previously though. I think i might do a wiring harness, just because this is my first time. It's not gonna be till like april-ish anyway. I plan on spending my tax return on it. Thanks again.
_____________________________
2003 4.3L 2WD Blazer 2DR K&N air filter
Alpine S-type speakers in all 4 corners
Damplifier behind all speakers and in cargo area
Alpine CDA-9856 (iPod interface)
Alpine 10" type S Sub with 400W Alpine MRP-M450 amp www.secondskinaudio.com
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RE: 5 watt difference on a head unit? - 1/23/2006 9:01:12 PM
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Canadian88
Posts: 489
Joined: 11/23/2005
From: Detroit
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I just had a thought. If i get THIS head unit, will it power my in-dash tweeters?
_____________________________
2003 4.3L 2WD Blazer 2DR K&N air filter
Alpine S-type speakers in all 4 corners
Damplifier behind all speakers and in cargo area
Alpine CDA-9856 (iPod interface)
Alpine 10" type S Sub with 400W Alpine MRP-M450 amp www.secondskinaudio.com
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RE: 5 watt difference on a head unit? - 1/23/2006 10:56:33 PM
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85FSBSilverado
Posts: 64
Joined: 2/3/2005
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The dash trim is the large dark piece in the picture that goes around the stereo, heater controls, and gauges. That whole thing has to come out before you can take your factory radio out.
This whole piece here:
I wouldn't run your door speakers and your dash tweeters off the stereo. Maybe if you had a crossover and could split the stereo signal.
http://autosportstyle.com/shop/audio-accessories-metra-702003-20002002-chevrolet-metro-prizm-tracker-into-wiring-harness-these-innovative-p-23043.html
This one should work, and I believe you have to run a new battery (constant positive(+) ) wire to the stereo. Exact same thing that happened with my brother's 2000 Cavalier. There's some T-harness advertised, and you're supposed to use that and put your stereo in the back of your vehicle, but that's just to keep the door dinger, big whoop.
This may be the same mounting harness, but I'm not exactly sure. That's a 2003 Blazer up top, and he has what looks to be the same thing.
http://store.yahoo.com/mobile-emotions/19gminkitgm.htmlj
If there's any doubt, when you take your dash out, you will see. I'm sure you know someone that could help near you if you can't do it. Especially in Detroit. What's the Canada for? Born in Canada in '88?
_____________________________
David Rusk Hess (55) 12/23/05 - RIP
'85 Blazer Silverado with a 305 and 33" tires.
Sony CD player with a Coustic 105A 4-ch; 2 Sony & 2 Jensen 6"x9" speakers. Pair of Jensen 10"s, Rockford amp.
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RE: 5 watt difference on a head unit? - 1/24/2006 3:22:27 PM
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Canadian88
Posts: 489
Joined: 11/23/2005
From: Detroit
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quote:
ORIGINAL: 85FSBSilverado
If there's any doubt, when you take your dash out, you will see. I'm sure you know someone that could help near you if you can't do it. Especially in Detroit. What's the Canada for? Born in Canada in '88?
Bingo. South windsor on july 18th to be exact. Yeah, i got the dash trim part. I don't think i'm gonna do the dash tweeters thing. Not now anyway. My door speakers have good tweeters, and my back speakers will have good ones too. I checked out that mounting link you gave me, and i can't seem to find an 03 blazer application. This was the closest thing i found. It's for an 02 blazer. I like the little pocket on it. Looks more stock. Click Me
P.S. i got freaked out for a second when you used my picture. Heh heh.
P.P.S. I just found this. I think it's the right wiring harness for my truck. Click me
< Message edited by Canadian88 -- 1/24/2006 4:31:53 PM >
_____________________________
2003 4.3L 2WD Blazer 2DR K&N air filter
Alpine S-type speakers in all 4 corners
Damplifier behind all speakers and in cargo area
Alpine CDA-9856 (iPod interface)
Alpine 10" type S Sub with 400W Alpine MRP-M450 amp www.secondskinaudio.com
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RE: 5 watt difference on a head unit? - 1/24/2006 7:51:51 PM
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85FSBSilverado
Posts: 64
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Had to type in the product ID in search to get that link to work.
It says 94-up, but that's not always right. Did you check the wire harness to make sure it looks the same? On that one I see wires for 4 speakers, 2 for remote outputs, the power wires, and at least one illumination wire.
Once you take your stereo out, you could take a picture of it mounted, it removed, the empty dash, and the wire harness, then you'll know what the stuff you'll need to replace it with looks like. Might post them on your CarDomain page too. Helps others doing the same thing. You can leave the wires attatched, if you don't want to lose your settings, and you might have to punch in an anti-theft code, too. I dunno. If you've disconnected the battery before with no problem, you don't.
< Message edited by 85FSBSilverado -- 1/24/2006 7:56:59 PM >
_____________________________
David Rusk Hess (55) 12/23/05 - RIP
'85 Blazer Silverado with a 305 and 33" tires.
Sony CD player with a Coustic 105A 4-ch; 2 Sony & 2 Jensen 6"x9" speakers. Pair of Jensen 10"s, Rockford amp.
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RE: 5 watt difference on a head unit? - 1/24/2006 8:58:01 PM
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Canadian88
Posts: 489
Joined: 11/23/2005
From: Detroit
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Ok. I'm definately gonna do a full write up on this when i do it, just so i can post it when somebody like myself wants to know how to do it, i'll have the information handy. Because honestly, it's been a bit grueling getting all this information collected. I had to go to multiple sights, including a forum specific to car audio, and crutchfield.com. I might even make a little web page about it so i can just post the link. Like on geocities or something.
On crutchfield, I entered my vehicle, and it has a link that says intallation details, so i click it, and it says they recommend that i buy this adapter to keep my door chime, and it has a switched power thing in it. 80 DOLLARS!! Is this bullshit or what? Do i need it? please tell me no. Heres the link > LINK click "installation details" in the box in the middle that says "my 2003 blazer" Thanks guys.
< Message edited by Canadian88 -- 1/24/2006 9:28:10 PM >
_____________________________
2003 4.3L 2WD Blazer 2DR K&N air filter
Alpine S-type speakers in all 4 corners
Damplifier behind all speakers and in cargo area
Alpine CDA-9856 (iPod interface)
Alpine 10" type S Sub with 400W Alpine MRP-M450 amp www.secondskinaudio.com
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