Spring sag...
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Spring sag... - 11/19/2007 3:56:13 PM
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Egret
Posts: 5
Joined: 11/19/2007
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Hello,
I have a mundane, but annoying problem. Perhaps there is a simple solution. My driver side is 2” lower than passenger side. As this condition developed slowly, it is probably the result of 175,000 miles of commuting with a driver and no passenger.
I put in air shocks with separate fills, but even 80 lb vs. 30 lb does not correct the problem.
Would it help to switch the springs: passenger side with driver side? Then the passenger side would be higher, but with a driver and no passenger, maybe it would be level.
I realize I could lower the passenger side, but I like the stock height (or a little higher), rather than lower.
Money is an object, I hope for a safe, but inexpensive fix.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Chris95 Blazer 4X4
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RE: Spring sag... - 11/19/2007 4:20:04 PM
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otnietdehoooo
The Chop Shop Moderator
Posts: 1611
Joined: 5/25/2007
From: Ft. Worth, TX
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4wd blazers use torsion bars instead of the traditional coil spring. there are adjusting bolts for the torsion bars which allow for approximately 2" up or down on either side. i just recently cranked mine a little bit to level it out side to side and front to back.
the only cost associated with a t-bar crank is the cost of an alignment.
when you adjust the torsion bars, it will increase the CV angle and can lead to increased wear on the front end suspension (esp. balljoints). if you use the 4WD a lot, the wear and tear will be little worse
HERE is some more info. if you read to the end, Jigg posted pictures and a how-yo
< Message edited by otnietdehoooo -- 11/19/2007 4:30:26 PM >
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Matt - 98 4DR 4WD
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RE: Spring sag... - 11/19/2007 5:24:54 PM
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Egret
Posts: 5
Joined: 11/19/2007
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Hello Otnietdehoooo,
That sounds promising. This could work on the rear?
My front is level; the rear is where my problem is.
Thank you,
Chris
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RE: Spring sag... - 11/19/2007 6:25:41 PM
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otnietdehoooo
The Chop Shop Moderator
Posts: 1611
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
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no that wont work on the rear. i thought you meant the front was sagging.
you could buy shackles which are meant to lift the rear and then just install one of them. it may look strange from behind but theres a chance it would work. a safer option would probably be to just get new springs.
i dont know as much about the rear susp so maybe someone else can help you out a little more
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Matt - 98 4DR 4WD
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RE: Spring sag... - 11/19/2007 7:43:22 PM
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cliro
Posts: 1209
Joined: 10/11/2007
From: Calgary, AB
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do not use only one shackle, this would look funny as heck. replace your leaf springs, or just do the add a leaf setup.
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RE: Spring sag... - 11/20/2007 2:42:44 PM
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Egret
Posts: 5
Joined: 11/19/2007
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Thank you Matt and Cliro,
Add a leaf sounds interesting. Are single leafs sold? Looks like it would be a little pesky taking it apart, though.
Am I nuts or about 30 years ago didn't JC Whitney sell wedges you could insert to lift weak springs? Maybe switching left for right is a good idea after all. In a few years she will be level again. In the mean time the stronger spring will be under the gas tank and me.
I am satisfied with the ride and clearance.
I appreciate your thoughts,
ChrisEgret
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RE: Spring sag... - 11/20/2007 3:25:45 PM
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otnietdehoooo
The Chop Shop Moderator
Posts: 1611
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
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they come with 2 single leafs. one for each side. you add them to the existing springs. HERE is a kit from Summit Racing. gain 1.5-2.5" height for $80
it probably wouldnt be a good idea though to add it to just one side. you would have a different spring rates which could possibly cause other problems. are you sure theres not a broken spring in there or maybe somethings not connected right?
the safest way to go, IMO would probably be to buy totally new springs.
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Matt - 98 4DR 4WD
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RE: Spring sag... - 11/20/2007 4:47:35 PM
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Egret
Posts: 5
Joined: 11/19/2007
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Hmmm... I did price new springs a year ago.
Perhaps something is broken, although I do not see it with casual and in experienced inspection. If so my oil-brake and muffler tech, who put in the air shocks, missed it.
I have a very good alignment mechanic scheduled to soon replace my steering pump and rack. I will ask his advice while I take into consideration your thoughts.
Thank you again.Chris
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RE: Spring sag... - 11/20/2007 8:06:21 PM
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Zed
Posts: 164
Joined: 8/29/2007
From: Niagara ON Canada
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I have air shocks on both my Blazers ...
Zed
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RE: Spring sag... - 11/20/2007 8:56:55 PM
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cliro
Posts: 1209
Joined: 10/11/2007
From: Calgary, AB
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Rule of thumb for suspensions. Never change springs or shocks on just one side, do both sides.
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2004 GMC Jimmy
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metallic cherry red.
.net instead of .com (better)
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RE: Spring sag... - 12/28/2007 11:01:21 AM
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myronhntr80
Posts: 54
Joined: 11/24/2006
From: Idaho
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Could not agree more. If you beef up spring load on one side only you are asking for major problems. Driveability issues, and wear and tear to other components. NOT a good idea. Go all or nothing.
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1993 Blazer 4.3 vortech cpi 4x4 Auto. trans. 4 door LT package. 2" shackles tb crank Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ 31 10.50 r 15
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RE: Spring sag... - 12/29/2007 1:24:08 PM
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Egret
Posts: 5
Joined: 11/19/2007
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Hello,
My alignment technician looked at the springs and confirmed nothing is broken; just wear on the driver’s side. In fact, that spring is noticeably flatter. He felt a sane person would replace both springs at a cost of about $600. Considering I just put $700 into the steering, it isn’t really an option now.
I have since also seen $50 Hellwig leaf spring adjustable helpers (see the JC Whitney goggle hit), which might work. I wonder if anyone has heard of an experience with them?
Finally I am thinking about installing new springs as a Do-It-Your-Self project to save money. It looks EZ. Of course I would be doing it on a concrete floor from under the car. Are the springs under compression or tension? In other words, if I just undo all these bolts will they slip out? Will I have to use force to line up the new ones? I won’t be able to push very much from on my back and underneath.
I additionally am toying with the idea of putting them back on top of the axle instead of under for a little all rear end lift. Is that also as EZ as it looks? Does it mess up other adjustments or create complications I don’t foresee?
Thanks again,
Chris
'95 Blazer 4X4
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RE: Spring sag... - 12/29/2007 1:39:42 PM
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Blazin_Jason
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Joined: 5/17/2006
From: Van Isl, B.C.
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Was the $600 including the new springs and labour? Don't flip the springs that will give you like 4" of lift. You would have to weld on new spring perches. Check online for new spring packs, I thought JC had some. R&R on the springs is pretty easy. Try to unbolt the u-bolts over axle housing, if not just cut them off. You will need to replace the u-bolts anyways. I support the diff with either a jack or some ratcheting straps to support it. Then you just have to remove the bolts that hold the springs in. They can become seized inside the bushings, so you might need to spray them first with a lube. Also might need a BFH and a punch to get the bolts out. I found that rotating the bolts back and forth and then hammering them out worked pretty well. I had my rear springs re-arched by a local spring shop. They added a little lift and match all the springs together. They also added in another leaf, but unlike an add a leaf it won't make the ride harsh (was about $350 total). This is deff a DIY job that you should be able to handle.
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85 S10 Blazer 4x4, 2 door, undergoing 350 swap, 3" BL, 33''''s
89 Jimmy 4x4, 2 door, 4.3/auto
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RE: Spring sag... - 12/29/2007 2:14:07 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14308
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From: Waterloo, NY
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Springs shouldn't cost you that much...
As far as the swap goes, a hot wrench (a.k.a. torch) makes short work of the removal of the u-bolts. Air tools would make removal of the rest of the components easy as well, but it can be done with simple hand tools.
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2004 Rainier
1970 Chevelle - Resto
1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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