Tune up, what all do you do?
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RE: Tune up, what all do you do? - 12/21/2005 12:54:01 PM
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swartlkk
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For a good engine tuneup, I would replace the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Also, clean the EGR valve (buy a new gasket @ ~$2) and replace the PCV. You could inspect the wires by spraying a fine mist of water over them at night. If you see any light theatricals, replace the wires. You could also visually inspect the cap and rotor, but while you've got them off, might as well replace them... To inspect them, look for carbon trails inside the cap as well as carbon deposits on the outer posts, and look at the center button in the cap for signs of it wearing down. If the center button looks flat, replace the cap. The rotor is pretty straight forward. Inspect the outer contact for carbon build up as well as the center spring contact for signs of wear. Like I said though, for the cost of them, if you're going to pull them, replace them.
For wires, I would recommend the Belden Premium wires from Napa, the Autolite Professional Series from Advanced, and always, the AC Delco wireset ($$$ though). I have had VERY bad luck with any wireset made by Bosch. Not to start another thread bashing them, but I have tried them on just about everything and they have always had quality issues.
Sparkplugs, I'd stick with the AC Delco platinums used from the factory. If you want a cheaper plug, expect to change them MUCH more often. The Copper plugs might give you a tad more spark power, but they won't last anywhere near as long in the 4.3L vortec motor. Also, don't go with any of the gimic plugs like ones with more than one ground strap, etc. I haven't read enough about the iridium plugs to know if they are worth the $$$ yet, but that's your call.
Fuel filter and PVC valve are very cheap and quick kill items that won't hurt anything (especially the wallet) if prematurely changed. Very good preventative maintenance items.
I wouldn't change your shock absorbers unless you are getting the undersized boat on a rough ocean feel (bouncing ALOT). I replaced my shocks on my Bravada not too long after buying it and it was a night and day difference. I went with Monroe Reflex shocks on the front and the Monroe Sensatraks with load assist coil over springs in the rear due to the weight I routinely put in my truck. The Reflex shocks will be a stiffer ride, but that's what I wanted. You might want to stick with the Sensatraks all around for a more compliant ride.
It is a good thing to drain/refill the diffs as preventative maintenance. By putting in a synthetic gear lube (Mobil 1, Amsoil, etc), you can even free up a few tenths (or full) miles per gallon due to the reduced friction. I use the 75w90 Mobil 1 gear lube. Comes in a 32oz bottle and is easy to pour into both diffs.
As Hanr3 has stated in other threads, the transmission filter really doesn't need to be replaced as a routine or preventative maintenance. If your transmission has dumped enough crap into the filter to plug it, the tranny will need a complete over haul. I never thought like this, but it makes a ton of sense. The transmission fluid is a closed system with no outside contaminants being introduced. So only contaminants (parts of the transmission itself) can plug up the filter. I don't know if I would NOT replace the filter even knowing this, but it's your call. Draining/refilling the fluid at 80,000 miles is a good thing, new filter or no new filter.
I check my air filter at EVERY oil change (or part of my monthly routine maintenance - whichever comes first). If you have a K&N, a yearly cleaning would be a good practice. Beware of over oiling your K&N filter though. The oil will coat the MAF sensor and cause it to read incorrectly. This will in-turn cause a host of other driveability concerns and may even cause transmission damage. I always recommend that when you clean/reoil your K&N to use a shop vac or other vacuum cleaner to suck off the excess oil before it gets a chance to get to the MAF sensor.
That leads me to my
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RE: Thanks, - 12/22/2005 1:57:55 PM
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Hanr3
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Swart covered it pretty well. Thanks for the cudos.
Being a '99 there is another area you should be concerned with. The cooling system. The factory Dex-Cool is rated for 5 years. IF yours has never been flushed your going in 7 years now.
Couple of other things I would like to add to the tune up list.
New serpentine belt.
New windsheild wiper blades, front and back.
Also give all of your locks a good dose of powered graphite. Graphite is the best lubricant for locks, all locks. It doens't draw in moisture, and it doesn't attract dirt/dust. It can be found in small tubes, particularly in hobby stores (pinewood derby cars), or most autoparts sotres. Liquid graphite on the other hand is graphite mixed with a liguid, the liguid will draw in the moisture and dirt. Graphite is nothing more then pencil lead in powder form.
Also treat your weather stripping to a nice coat of silicone. The silicone will restore them to the softness they had when new. Plus it is a water treatment, and lubricant.
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"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
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'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: Thanks, - 12/22/2005 3:01:43 PM
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swartlkk
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Hanr3
Swart covered it pretty well. Thanks for the cudos.
Hey man, I give credit where credit is due. No other way to do it!
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RE: Thanks also to Hanr3 - 12/23/2005 1:31:03 PM
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Hanr3
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Bocomo
I was hoping for replies from both swart and hanr3. So now I feel like I have some very good ideas and will probably start to move forward. Powdered graphite is a good suggestion, too. Probably the most neglected area on my cars, yet used everyday.
Fortunately, (or unfortunately) I have a new radiator and water pump in the last three months. So I have new fluid in the radiator, so I don't have to worry about that one.
In reading around, it sounds like I should enjoy the challenge of the #3 plug. I'll try to look at that before I start or I'll start with #3 and see how far I get. In changing the plugs I understand it is best to go through the wheel wells. This makes me assume that it is easier to put the front on jack stands rather than just laying on the garage floor (those are my two options). So if I'm putting it on the stands I might as well take the wheels off.
Sounds like a busy weekend to me, but rewarding. I hope I don't have to drive to Hanr3 for help!!
Let me guess, the radiator was full of sludge? and the water pump failed?
Yep, good ole #3. I still have to change mine. Its been 9,000 miles or so since I did the tune up. Maybe this weekend? I have seen where you need to turn the steering wheel and then a extension will fit past the shaft. Although I just might unbolt the steering shaft. I don't remember if I went through the wheel wells or not. Altough if you do take your tires off, would be a good time to grease the ball joints, plus check the brakes.
Post up how it went.
_____________________________
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: Well, I'd say the #3 plug is difficult. - 12/31/2005 9:15:08 PM
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Hanr3
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Mechanics gloves.
_____________________________
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: Well, I'd say the #3 plug is difficult. - 12/31/2005 10:00:20 PM
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zero psi
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saftey glasses when you change the fuel filter. i learned that one the hard way
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RE: Well, I'd say the #3 plug is difficult. - 1/1/2006 3:28:36 AM
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4lowlife
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maybe check the brakes for wear & bleed 'em. thats another good one. grease the zerk fittings.
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RE: Why, why, why, why - 1/8/2006 11:11:57 AM
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swartlkk
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Joined: 5/1/2005
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If it seems like it is idling low, you may want to pull of the throttlebody and clean it. The IAC (idle air control) valve is on the drivers side of the TB at the back. Pull that out and clean both the pintle and the mating surface inside. You might want to use an old tooth brush to clean out the passages.
While you're at it, now might be a good time to cut the baffle off of the throttle plate. I noticed a pretty good increase in throttle response with the baffle cut off. You can't just drill out the rivets that hold it on, you really have to cut it off with either a dremel or a careful hacksaw. Just cut the horn part off.
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RE: Why, why, why, why - 1/8/2006 12:59:24 PM
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Hanr3
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Mine idles just fine at 550rpms.
Did you get the cap and rotor changed too?
_____________________________
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: Why, why, why, why - 1/8/2006 1:53:42 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 15276
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
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Once all warmed up, mine will idle around 550-600rpm, but when cold, it idles around 800-900rpm.
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Tune up, what all do you do? - 
Thanks, - 
