Heater core leaking for 3rd time on '95 Blazer
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Heater core leaking for 3rd time on '95 Blazer - 1/1/2006 2:22:15 PM
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ShadowHawk
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I must have something else going on with my antifreeze, as I've apparently just busted through my 2nd replacement heater core, so I'm about to be on my 3rd. Last time it started leaking was just after the Christmas Parade 2 years ago... I was thinking that possibly the antifreeze had gotten hot enough to melt one of the the sweatted joints on the heater core.. but I dunno... what temp is needed to melt the solder/braizing material used on those cores?
Leaking antifreeze dripping inside the passenger side floorboard... perma-haze on the windows, the whole schemil...
So.. what causes the heater cores to spring leaks? I just read through old messages on the forum and see references to the temp of the lines going into an out of the core... Here's what I just found when giving a cursory look at my heater core lines & antifreeze tank:
Temp gauge: Holds steady at about ~190 deg F. Thermostat was changed about a year ago (March 2005) while on a trip where it had gotten stuck open (so engine was running cool).
Heater core lines: Both supply and return lines are VERY hot to the touch. 20 minutes after I got home, the temp gause reads 150 Deg F., and I used a candy thermometer to give a surface temp reading of the heater core lines.. also reading ~ 150 Deg F. (again - this is after the car sat for about 20 minutes after getting home)
Reservoir tank: A bit low. I added about 1/2 gallon of water to bring the level up to "Full Hot" (as everything's still hot, and hasn't had time to cool down from this morning's trip to the post office). Lots of "floaties" floating around in the reservoir tank. I'm thinking there may be some scale buildup somewhere in the system...
Any ideas as to how I can prevent this again 2 years down the road? I know I've got a good 6 hours of work ahead of me to pull the dash & replace the core & put it all back together....
Thanks,
Rex S.
Richardson, Tx
< Message edited by ShadowHawk -- 1/1/2006 2:25:38 PM >
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Rex S.
'95 S-10 Blazer 2WD, 4-Dr
'82 XJ650 Maxim
'82 XJ750 Seca
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RE: Heater core leaking for 3rd time on '95 Blazer - 1/1/2006 5:51:08 PM
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ShadowHawk
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Well.. Looks like I *may* be in luck. I hopped on the motorcycle and went to the local Home Depot, and picked up all I needed for the 3/4" to 5/8" bypass valve.. as I was planning on simply bypassing the heater core....
Got home, assembled all the parts, and pulled the heater hose line off of the core.. Looks like the 5/8" line may have had a small crack in it *right* where the spring-hose clamp holds the hose onto the core inlet nipple. I'm sure hoping that the hose was the leaky culpret, and it was simply dripping down along the outside of the heater core, and causing the drip inside the passenger compartment. I'll post more later after I've tested the theory.. and will probably p/u a new set of heater hoses at Auto Zone pretty quickly.
Rex S.
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Rex S.
'95 S-10 Blazer 2WD, 4-Dr
'82 XJ650 Maxim
'82 XJ750 Seca
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RE: I hope that is it! That'd be great. - 1/2/2006 5:29:51 PM
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blazingsadle
Posts: 237
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Yeah, about as good a reason as any to explain what I do as a preventative to problems such as these. IF and this hardly ever happens, I change hoses completely when installing new, but if; I would cut off as much hose as it took to get to newer, better end, sometimes a couple of inches. Then would take a little silicone, blue goo whattever you like, and coat the metal thinly with it. Then slip over hose and clamp down.
Now this is if I am desperate and cant get hose. Not normal for me, cause I would normally replace both hoses and the odds would be REAL good that I would substitute a stainless set if they were available. Complete with clamps. I would still use the silicone gasket material at the metal end THINLY before slipping hose over. Think of it as protection against the inevitable.
I have ample reason for all this. I am poor and lazy. I cant afford the tow truck and NEVER want to get caught out in the middle of nowhere with problems; too lazy to walk.
BTW the bypass is still a good idea, but some vehicles DO depend on this as part of the cooling system, so watch the temp gauge right after you install a bypass.
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RE: I hope that is it! That'd be great. - 1/5/2006 12:30:17 AM
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ShadowHawk
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Update.. Well, it IS the heater core that's leaking. I installed a bypass valve/tubing for the 3/4 to 5/8 lines to loop the inlet & outlet water. It ran fine (but was a COLD ride to work). I noticed it was a more drastic temp change when the thermostat opened/closed - but it never overheated or even came close - stayed at about 200 degF max during stop-n-go traffic.
So... I replaced the heater lines because I had found a *small* crack in one of them... Then hooked up the heater core again... and this morning took it for the test - about a 40 minute drive to work... Well, about 5-minutes into the drive I started smelling the antifreeze again, and sure enough, there was a pretty good drip coming down from the heater core into the passenger floorboard again.
Picked up another heater core at Auto Zone tonight, and will probably do the switch this weekend.. 'til then, it's got the bypass loop/valve in place again. I can live with the (mildly) cool weather. The only good news to report is that my LAST core was bought at Auto Zone as well - almost right at 2 years ago. The cores from AutoZone have a lifetime warranty on them, so they told me to bring the old one in once they're swapped, and they'll refund my money for the heater core. Sort of takes the bite out of the work...
I'll let you all know exactly where the core failed once it's been pulled. The first 2 had failed along the crimped/sweatted end caps. I wonder if there's some vibration or something that's weakening a joint... and it's "work hardened" - then cracks... We'll see...
Rex S.
< Message edited by ShadowHawk -- 1/5/2006 12:32:03 AM >
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Rex S.
'95 S-10 Blazer 2WD, 4-Dr
'82 XJ650 Maxim
'82 XJ750 Seca
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RE: I hope that is it! That'd be great. - 1/5/2006 6:33:59 AM
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swartlkk
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That sucks man. If you can, take plenty of pics! If you have time, possibly write up a How-To and throw the pics into it (noting any difficulties you ran into as well). I'm going to try to make up a How-To section in the coming months.
Have you always bought your cores from Autozone? If so, I'd say there may be something wrong with the quality of those parts.
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RE: Heater core leaking for 3rd time on '95 Blazer - 1/5/2006 7:23:04 AM
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tomsblazer
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"The only good news to report is that my LAST core was bought at Auto Zone as well - almost right at 2 years ago. The cores from AutoZone have a lifetime warranty on them, "
Sorry to hear the bad news. had hope you would get lucky with the bad hose. I gave up on the "Life Time" stuff from Auto Zone. That just means you will be changing this part out for the rest of your life!
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RE: Heater core leaking for 3rd time on '95 Blazer - 1/5/2006 7:55:18 AM
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swartlkk
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I really have never been impressed with any replacement part from Autozone. I have never had good luck with them.
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RE: Heater core leaking for 3rd time on '95 Blazer - 1/6/2006 1:37:04 AM
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ShadowHawk
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I'm doing a little groundwork research for the purpose of not having to do this again in 2 years. In my research so far, I've found an article that lists electrolysis as thr number one killer of radiators and heater cores - fronm the inside out - even killing sweated fittings, etc...
Now, this is my highly simplified "Cliff's Notes" version, but: Apparently, if you have an insufficient ground, etc, then there's free electrons that get stored - and apparently antifreeze is a good "capacitor" to hold that charge.
The article says to use a digital voltmeter, and put the ground to the vehicle's ground (or grounded chassis), and the positive probe is to be placed into the antifreeze/coolant (without touching the core inside the radiator) - give it a few seconds to settle out, and if the voltmeter shows more then .3 volts then there's a good posibility that electrolysis can be affecting metal that's in contact with the cooling system.
Here's a link to the original article - which is interestingly enough - linked to from the manufacturer of MY heater core.
http://www.pliii.com/documents/electolysis91004.pdf
That said.. Yes - I'll take pics and document the process of changing out the core ths weekend.
Rex S.
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Rex S.
'95 S-10 Blazer 2WD, 4-Dr
'82 XJ650 Maxim
'82 XJ750 Seca
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RE: Heater core leaking for 3rd time on '95 Blazer - 1/6/2006 2:48:26 AM
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Beefys BroncoII
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Only old antifreeze will show you a high voltage. Dis-similiar metals and any liquid will cause elctrolsys. The higher the acid content of the liquid the higher the voltage.
I think that a more correct answer would be the Auto Zone heater core. They buy the cheapest stuff so they can sell the cheapest stuff to you.
Solder starts to melt at around 450 degrees if I remember correctly. Far above the temp your coolant reaches.
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Hazard switch - Was RE: Heater core replacement - 1/8/2006 1:58:42 PM
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ShadowHawk
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Well... Good news & bad news so far...
I pulled the dash, steering column, etc, etc.. (yes - I took pics).. and got the heater core replaced...
However.. I've had problems for the last couple of years in which my switch for my hazard lights broke, and won't hold in place very well.... so when I pulled the steering column to replace the core... something must've fallen out of the (broken) switch assembly for the hazard lights.. because it now blinks constantly...
So.. that said... I'm needing to find a new switch for the hazard lights. If anyone on list has ever opened up the steering cover, you'll know that the hazard switch has about a million* wires connected to it.
* (slight exageration - probably closer to 15-20 wires)
So... I was wondering.. pretty please... if anyone on list has a steering colums that they'd be willing to give up the switch from.. please let me know... OTherwise, I'll probably wind up buying the whole friggin innerds of the wiper control/cruise control/hazard switch assembly - as it seems that's how chevy generally sells parts...
So for now - the Blazer's out of commission until I can get the switch replaced. :(
Rex S.
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Rex S.
'95 S-10 Blazer 2WD, 4-Dr
'82 XJ650 Maxim
'82 XJ750 Seca
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Core Replacemnt Pics Link - 1/8/2006 3:13:23 PM
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ShadowHawk
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Here's a link to a pic gallery I just put together for the heater core replacement process. It took about 3 hours to remove everything to the point of being able to open up the heater core housing - and about the same for putting everything back together.
http://www.treasureboards.com/blazer/core.html
Rex S.
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Rex S.
'95 S-10 Blazer 2WD, 4-Dr
'82 XJ650 Maxim
'82 XJ750 Seca
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RE: Core Replacemnt Pics Link - 1/8/2006 3:53:40 PM
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swartlkk
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Glad you got it apart and back together. Don't know what to tell you about the 4way switch... I'd just grab one from a junk yard. Shouldn't cost you more than $5 and the pick-n-pull yard near me has a return policy were if it doesn't work, you get your full money back so long as you pulled it.
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RE: Core Replacemnt Pics Link - 1/8/2006 5:29:42 PM
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ShadowHawk
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Yep - I suppose I'll mount up on the bike and hit several of the Dallas area pick-n-pull places. Thanks!
< Message edited by ShadowHawk -- 1/8/2006 5:30:08 PM >
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Rex S.
'95 S-10 Blazer 2WD, 4-Dr
'82 XJ650 Maxim
'82 XJ750 Seca
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RE: Core Replacemnt Pics Link - 1/10/2006 8:16:08 PM
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ShadowHawk
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Just an update.. I found an aftermarket replacement turn signal/wiper/hazard switch/cruise controller to go inside the steering column.. found on Ebay from an auto dealer in Lafayette La. Searched online, and found a general range of about $130-$140 (USD) for the controls... so I *should* be able to get my Blazer back on teh road in a few days after the parts arrive.. I hope I *NEVER* have to take the dash apart again for a heater core replacement.... PITA!
Rex S.
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Rex S.
'95 S-10 Blazer 2WD, 4-Dr
'82 XJ650 Maxim
'82 XJ750 Seca
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Heater core blew AGAIN... SOLVED, Though - 3/29/2006 10:34:05 AM
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ShadowHawk
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Bocomo
I would think even bad luck wouldn't make you go through heater cores like that, but I don't know. Changing the hoses is probably a good idea anyway, although a better idea if it fixes the problem.
HEy all,
On my yearly trek to northern Virginia from Dallas last week.. my heater core blew AGAIN.. just after passing through the mountains approaching Knoxville, Tn. I stopped and was able to bypass the heater core (again) with a 5/8 to 3/4 bypass valve I made from parts at Lowes... but more importantly, I think I figured out WHY I've had so many heater core issues.
In my case, IIRC, the cores are generally blowing after a long drive that's taxing on the engine... (i.e. mountain driving, Texas Summer Heat, etc.) I pulled into an O'riley's Auto parts in Bristol, Va to see if they had yet another heater core in stock for me (and yes, they did) - and I mentioned to the manager that I'd been through SEVERAL ( 4) heater cores in the last 2-3 years. First thing he asked is "Have you changed your radiator cap?" My jaw dropped as I quickly realized what's been happening...
My radiator cap had the mechanical pressure overflow for the coolant to flow to the overflow tank... Well, I think the nechanism was not allowing the overflow to vent to that tank.. so as coolant temp increased in the radiator circuit, it expanded, and the weak point happened to be the heater core.. which has been springing leaks on me.
I checked the level of fluid in the overflow, and it wasn't necessarily high after a hard drive... so I changed the radiator cap.. and NOW I'm getting the proper overflow into the overflow tank. I hope my problems are solved, now with my heater cores... Lesson learned: When changing the coolant fluid or other coolant circuit items, check / change that radiator cap... it's cheap insurance for proper overflow. The heater core blowing was a symtom of another (cheaper to fix) problem.
I'll be pulling the dash again this weekend, now that I'm back to Dallas from Virginia...
Rex S.
< Message edited by ShadowHawk -- 3/29/2006 10:36:40 AM >
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Rex S.
'95 S-10 Blazer 2WD, 4-Dr
'82 XJ650 Maxim
'82 XJ750 Seca
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RE: Heater core blew AGAIN... SOLVED, Though - 3/29/2006 11:15:32 AM
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kaindragoon36
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Hopefully you weren't usin that nasty dexcool coolant. You'll be havin corroded parts everywhere
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RE: Heater core blew AGAIN... SOLVED, Though - 3/29/2006 11:38:50 AM
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swartlkk
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quote:
ORIGINAL: kaindragoon36
Hopefully you weren't usin that nasty dexcool coolant. You'll be havin corroded parts everywhere
What do you base this statement off of?
It has been proven that Dexcools problems are not related to the coolant itself, but to the lack of routine cooling system maintenance. IE ensuring that the radiator and overflow tank are at their proper levels and changing the fluid EVERY 5 years (or sooner). Just because it says it has a 5yr life doesn't mean it's maintenance free for 5 years. Every vehicle requires maintenance to it's systems. Air in the cooling system is what causes the components to rust/corrode/oxidize. If the system were maintained at proper levels, there would be no air, and as such, no corrosion.
A monthly check of tire pressure, engine oil, transmission fluid, and radiator fluid (both radiator & overflow) should be routine for everyone. But people don't care anymore. It's their fault, not the car or the fluid used.
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RE: Heater core blew AGAIN... SOLVED, Though - 3/29/2006 2:43:24 PM
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kaindragoon36
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yes, most dexcool problems are due to lack of maintenance, but you open lines, you put air in the system, and dexcool is corrosive in itself. That's all I'm saying. Even the manuals all say not to get dexcool on you, it will eat holes in things.
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RE: Heater core blew AGAIN... SOLVED, Though - 3/29/2006 5:19:19 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 15276
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That's kinda funny... Dexcool is corrosive... I find that funny because I have had it up my arms and on my clothes, shop floor, etc. No problems. Actually, Dexcool is MUCH more environmentallly friendly than the green stuff. That is what it was designed for. But oh well. Don't listen to me. What do I know...
Oh and I have yet to read a manual that says NOT to use dexcool. My Haynes states if equiped with Dexcool, ONLY USE DEXCOOL!
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