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Solid Front Axle Swap

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Blazer >> Mechanical & Maintenance >> Steering, Suspension & Drivetrain >> Solid Front Axle Swap Page: [1]
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Solid Front Axle Swap - 1/1/2008 12:27:38 AM   
Nightkrawler99

 

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So i have a 2001 GMC Jimmy 2dr.  i have been pondering a suspension lift on my rig for sometime now and i decided that im going to go with a solid front axle, since im in the process of making my daily driver to my weekend wheeler.  any information from anyone who has done or been involved in this swap is what i need. i.e. which vehicles have the front axle that i can make compatible(metal fab is not an issue), even any major problems after the swap would be helpful...thanks guys

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RE: Solid Front Axle Swap - 1/1/2008 12:32:18 AM   
Blazin_Jason


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Haven't done, don't know a lot either.  Here is a good site with some information that might help.  Check the tech articles section.  

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85 S10 Blazer 4x4, 2 door, undergoing 350 swap, 3" BL, 33''''s

89 Jimmy 4x4, 2 door, 4.3/auto

(in reply to Nightkrawler99)
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RE: Solid Front Axle Swap - 1/3/2008 12:13:07 PM   
RCars2


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Only thing you need to worry about for the axle is that is a drivers side drop as our front drive shafts run the drivers side. Nice thing is that most mid 90's to current jeep front axles are setup that way so you can snag one and it will line right up. Only down side would be that you would be changing bolt patterns on the front so you would have to get custom shafts for the rear or get a new rear axle as well. As for my personal recommendation, i say go dana 44's front and rear on leaf springs with a spring over axle convert in the rear. Should work real slick.

Only other thing i can think of off the top of my head is that you will need to do something about the steering. From what im told a 2wd astro steering box and a jeep yj drop pitman arm will help line things up if done properly. Myself since im still looking into that i cant say how much more is involved in that. Wost case scenario would be that you would have to fab up something but again you said thats not an issue so go to it.

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(in reply to Blazin_Jason)
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RE: Solid Front Axle Swap - 2/9/2008 7:48:32 AM   
1red88blaze

 

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Joined: 2/9/2008
From: Elk Rapids Michigan
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just to throw it out there... a couple of friend have used the front and rear axle sets from an early 90s jeep (pronounced heep) cherokee and that way you don't have to worry about mis-matched rims. They both used the Rubicon Express long arm lift as a concept for the front suspension and then fabbed their own. It was a really simple swap just getting everything lined up was a little time consuming. You will have to fab buckets and shock monts for the front on the frame but once you get the IFS cleaned of the rails it gives you plenty of room to do what you want in that area. The steering is not an issue just have to do a lil mod the the drag link ( on the pitman end to get the right rod end to fit the s10 box ) brakes hook right up just have to use a jeep soft drop from the frame. the rear is a simple SPOA and that is about 4 inches of lift.

(in reply to Nightkrawler99)
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RE: Solid Front Axle Swap - 2/9/2008 7:29:58 PM   
texastrails

 

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im currently in the process of my SAS. Im running a fullwidth ford 9 and a fullwidth d44 with chromemoly shafts, 4.88s, histeer, warn locking hubs, beadlocks, stock rear leafs with YJ AAL on SOA and the front is custom YJ Alcan springs. should have it done by spring break. If youre actually going to go with a solid axle i would highly recommend that you stay away from the wimpy d30 front and d35 rear that come out of stock jeeps as they are extremely weaker in R&P, tube diameter, etc. Since youre going to have to fab everything anything you should go at least d44s, if you can locate 70s and 80s jeep grand wagoneer you can get some d44 front and rears that are about the same wms-wms of our stock blazers. I bought one and then sold the axles out, swapped in a d60 and 14FF for some real wheeling. You'll also be needing to get your flat top steering knuckles blah blah blah, all that stuff can be read about at the sites provided. If you do histeer you shoudnt really have to get the new steering box and drop arm, but it can be a little more expensive due to having to get histeer arms and you wanna get beefier tie rods and drag link. Crossover steering is ok but it just allows for more lateral axle movement, and that means nasty bumpsteer. The more horizontal the drag link is, the less lateral movement. I thought it would be an extreme task, but after all the IFS is cut out and you get your front crossmember up, its all pretty basic wrenching. Well except setting pinion angle. MAKE sure to upgrade your brake MC.

< Message edited by texastrails -- 2/9/2008 7:39:17 PM >

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