sputtering, loss of power
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sputtering, loss of power - 2/23/2008 8:41:18 PM
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ershealy
Posts: 15
Joined: 2/23/2008
Status: offline
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Ok, My wife has a 2001 Blazer, 2WD, 4.3L CSEFI. It will start fine, idle fine, drives fine when the throttle is 1/4 open or less. When you open the throttle over 1/4 it absolutely falls on it's face. If you back out of the throttle, it will begin to accelerate and sometimes if you stay in the throttle the engine will struggle to 3000 RPM and then pull very hard to 5000.
I have checked the fuel pressure (over 50 psi all the time), replaced the coil, and ignition module. Checked the TPS with Autotap and it appears to be reading the TPS fine.
It has set a misfire code (don't remember which one), P0128 (which I can not find), 02 Heater circuit code, and a code for the evap canister.
Yesterday it was running fine.
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RE: sputtering, loss of power - 2/24/2008 8:47:05 AM
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ershealy
Posts: 15
Joined: 2/23/2008
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Checked the vacuum this morning. Put my gauge on the port that connects to the AIR pump behind the front bumper. SES went away! Vacuum was around 17 and steady. Noticed that the vacuum line going to the AIR pump looked a little dry rotted.
Replaced the 4 ft length of vacuum hose that leads to the AIR pump and the little foot and a half that goes from the vacuum switch to the diaphram at the AIR pump. This appears to have cleared everything up.
Drove the Blazer down the interstate, through town, filled up, restarted fine, drove up a couple of hills, and it runs like a top now.
Is it possible that a small vacuum leak or the AIR pump diaphragm not opening could cause all of this?
Thank you for the response, but I cleared the codes out to see what would come up again. Guess that I should have written them down.
< Message edited by ershealy -- 2/24/2008 8:52:16 AM >
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RE: sputtering, loss of power - 2/24/2008 9:05:09 AM
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rriddle3
Posts: 1339
Joined: 12/22/2006
From: Fort Worth,Texas
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Glad it's running good now. Keep an eye out for the codes coming back again and let us know.
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RE: sputtering, loss of power - 2/25/2008 6:19:40 PM
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ershealy
Posts: 15
Joined: 2/23/2008
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It's back...
This time it is showing codes P0452 and P0300.
I don't think that I mentioned before that it is popping throught the exahust occasionally; When it has trouble getting up and going and I open the throttle.
I wonder if the FPR could be leaking, sending raw gas down the intake and causing the random misfire?
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RE: sputtering, loss of power - 2/26/2008 6:24:03 PM
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ershealy
Posts: 15
Joined: 2/23/2008
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It just got worse...
Today it runs perfectly. No codes, no hesitation, popping, spitting, none of it! The part that worries me, is that I did nothing! My wife did not even drive it today, ARGH!
I'm beginning to wonder if the PCM could be bad. The first day that I noticed this was Saturday (a very nice sunny day), then Sunday when I "fixed it" the first time it was cool (50) and overcast, Monday nice and sunny and running badly, today cool (55) and rainy. I wonder if there is some connection?
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RE: sputtering, loss of power - 2/27/2008 12:28:17 AM
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thegr81
Posts: 2621
Joined: 1/16/2007
From: PHOENIX,AZ
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It sounds like a possible pcm issue but that is a wild guess!!!
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RE: sputtering, loss of power - 2/28/2008 5:34:25 PM
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ershealy
Posts: 15
Joined: 2/23/2008
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Two more cool days, two more days of running well.
At least it will be warm when I have to work on it again.
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RE: sputtering, loss of power - 2/29/2008 5:13:14 AM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14530
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
Status: online
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When you replaced the ICM, did it come with new thermal paste? The heat thing has me wanting to point to the ICM again... We recently had a member that went through 3 aftermarket ones in less than a month. Final solution was an AC Delco ICM and his problem went away.
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RE: sputtering, loss of power - 3/2/2008 5:55:07 PM
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ershealy
Posts: 15
Joined: 2/23/2008
Status: offline
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Yeah, I used the heat sink grease on the Ignition Module. Should not really matter about the ambiant temprature though, as once the engine has ran for a half hour or so the under hood components are all going to get hot. This makes me question if it is an underhood component.
I have not had a chance to check it out this weekend as I was out of town.
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RE: sputtering, loss of power - 3/5/2008 10:49:48 AM
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SmokeDogg
Posts: 2
Joined: 3/5/2008
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Hi i have an'01 blazer 2dr 4wd. I have a similar problem but it isn't exactly the same It started almost a year ago one morning it wouldn't start I kept trying for about 20min finally it started (it was warm and dry out). Drove down the road about 10mi it started sputtering and the check engine light came on. I got to where i was going sputtering the whole way turned the truck off. later went to leave wouldn't start for like 20min got it started took it to a mechanic. 3monthes and $1100 he replaced my fuel pump ign module and a few other parts. I didn't have a problem for a month. Then it didn't want to start sat for 10min trying to start got it started it drove fine. I have lived with this for almost a year it would do thiis about once a month I could always get it started eventually. Which brings me to its recent incedent I was driving down the freeway the other day when it started sputtering it did this for a few miles then it died left me sittng 20 min before i started, drove a few miles and died again. I managed to make it almost home like this (took a while though) until the battery died. got towed home .Let it sit for a hour charging then it fired right up and ran fine I let it run for an hour no problem. the next morning started up just fine its ran fine since. If anyone has any advice I ask you Please Help me Thank you
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RE: sputtering, loss of power - 3/5/2008 6:36:00 PM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
Posts: 3482
Joined: 5/11/2005
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Welcome to the site.
Battery connections. Take your cables off the battery and make sure your battery posts are good and no corrosion. Verify your cables are not green under the protective sheath. Replace them if you suspect them or see any cracking.
Does your security light come on when it doesnt want to start? If so, it could be your ignition switch. Its under the dash, not where teh key goes. Mine went bad, and it wouldn't let me start the truck until it recognised the key, then it would run all day long. Mine was under warranty and the dealer replaced it.
third thought is ICM, if it was replaced, is there grease betweeen it and the heat sink (mounting brakcet). ICM will fail when hot, cools off and it works just fine.
Of the three, I suspect your battery cables first. they will be intermittent, and not really tied to cold or hot engine, not really tied to anything. Thet just act up. Bounce a few more times andd it may go away or get worse and die instantly.
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