You have one month...
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You have one month... - 2/6/2006 7:33:31 PM
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strongboy2005
Posts: 170
Joined: 1/28/2006
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The scenario...
You own a 2003 LS (4-door) Blazer. You have Positraction and 3.43 gears.
You are set to race (at a track) against a 2000 Mustang GT in one month. A lot is riding on this race (straight up 1/4 mile).
Here are the stats:
You weigh 200 lbs, your friend weighs 130 lbs.
Blazer: 190 hp, 250 ft-lbs torque, curb weight: 3792 lbs., 4-speed automatic
Mustang GT: 260 hp, 302 ft-lbs torque, curb weight: 3242 lbs., 5-speed manual (driver is a decent shifter)
The question is not who will win. The question would be if you had $2000 to work with and one month, could you build a Blazer that could beat the stock Mustang GT?
If not, what's the fastest you could get it with that amount of money and what, specifically, would you do to get there?
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2003 LS (4-door) Chevy Blazer 4.3L 2WD GU6 G80
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2257682
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RE: You have one month... - 2/6/2006 10:59:32 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14293
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
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Well, to do this reliably... I don't know if I have an answer that will allow you to win. A well tuned nitrous setup could get your close, but the upper intake plenum scares me when it comes to back fires. One single backfire will shatter the upper intake plenum. To get you close, you'd have to atleast go with a 100hp shot wet (nitrous and fuel), but again, I have to caution you on the proper use of Nitrous. It is VERY easy to run lean and blow your motor with Nitrous.
If you could get into the engine. A cam, rockers, ported heads, headers, and possibly higher compression pistons. Don't think this would fit within your budget, but I'd do EVERYTHING listed from this HOT ROT article - 3/4 350 - 4.3L Engine Buildup. Their outcome was 301hp and 312ftlbs. Now I know that the buildup was on an older engine, but the same still applies with the newer engines, but the newer engines have better flowing heads. But I still don't think that would be enough to knock off the GT.
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Kyle-
2004 Rainier
1970 Chevelle - Resto
1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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RE: You have one month... - 2/7/2006 7:15:13 AM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14293
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
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quote:
ORIGINAL: strongboy2005
Nice link, you think that could be done for under $2000?
What do you think about a new axle ratio? Would 4.10 gears do the trick?
No, I don't think it can be done for $2k.
The problem with 4.10s is that the 4.3L would seriously run out of breath once you got moving. You would get the jump off the line, but the GT would run you down and pass you before the 1/8th and possibly sooner.
The problem with this comparo is that the GT weighs 550lbs less, has 70hp more (+ more torque), and has a more efficient drivetrain (manual vs auto) so he's getting more power to the ground. So now if we use the old approximation that -100lbs = +10hp = -0.10sec in the 1/4 mile, you'd lose by .55sec on weight alone. Now taking a 15% drivetrain loss for the GT (which is HIGH), he's putting down 221whp and a 23% drivetrain loss for your auto makes your whp at ~146whp, he's putting down ~75hp more to the ground so there's another 0.75 seconds faster for a grand total of 1.3seconds faster (a very conservative estimate). So on paper inorder to match him, you'd need to drop 1300 lbs or gain 130hp.
These numbers are for conversation sake only and shouldn't be taken as fact. The +10hp/-100lbs/-0.10s is just a gross approximation. The thing that isn't taken into account is the drag difference between the GT and the Blazer.
You can also do any combination of weightloss (free) and hp upgrades to achieve your goal. So take out EVERYTHING that is not necessary. Drop the spare, remove all but the drivers seat, take out everything that isn't bolted down as well as most things that are, run with an 1/8th tank of fuel, etc. Anything to reduce the weight of the vehicle.
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Kyle-
2004 Rainier
1970 Chevelle - Resto
1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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RE: You have one month... - 2/7/2006 10:04:31 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14293
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
Status: offline
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With a cam, you should do new lifters. To take full advantage of a new cam with a grind to give more top end, you should change your rev limit and shift points. To reliably do this without valve float, you should replace the springs with higher load springs. Also if available, you could throw on a set of higher ratio rocker arms. The springs will be the cheapest thing, followed by the cam, then the lifters and rockers. By contacting Comp Cams directly, they should be able to tell you what will work with your engine. They know a lot more than they have on their site and they would be able to tell you what to expect out of their products. I have always found Comp Cams to be very honest when you contact them directly and have never been disappointed with any of their products.
*EDIT* - more directly to your question, basically the front and top of the engine needs to be opened up. The lower intake, timing cover and all other components that need to be removed to gain access to both of them needs to be taken off (including the distributor). The reason why I recommended new lifters is because I don't know if the newer 4.3Ls use roller lifters. If they do, then you could get away without it, but they will limit the spring rate of the valve springs because too stiff of a spring could collapse the lifter.
Any more questions, just ask.
< Message edited by swartlkk -- 2/7/2006 10:09:20 PM >
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Kyle-
2004 Rainier
1970 Chevelle - Resto
1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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RE: You have one month... - 2/7/2006 10:26:40 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14293
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
Status: offline
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For that, you'd have to source a cam. You can call Comp Cams tech line and they could do you a custom grind to your specifications or set you up with a custom grind based off what you are looking to get. Your limitations are going to be the flow of the stock intake/heads/exhaust and the compression of the engine. Getting a cam can move your power around.
And yes, any trustworthy shop will be able to perform the work (do not take it to a dealership!), but that is going to eat up a quarter of your budget (if not more) in labor.
If you want the best bang for the buck and want to make it a close race, then I hate to say it, but a viable option would be nitrous. Do as much weight reduction as you can and put it on the bottle, but save some extra money to have a professional tune it. I don't know how the computer is going to like going on the giggle gas, but I don't see many other alternatives within your budget.
*EDIT* - But again, use nitrous with EXTREME CAUTION! I have never liked nitrous simply because people use it incorrectly and do stupid things. When tuned/used correctly, it is very reliable, but not always very consistent.
Good luck
< Message edited by swartlkk -- 2/7/2006 10:28:56 PM >
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Kyle-
2004 Rainier
1970 Chevelle - Resto
1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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RE: You have one month... - 2/10/2006 3:48:19 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14293
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
Status: offline
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To just buy a s/c is only 10% of the problem. You've then got to put it on and unless he's got a fab shop in his back yard, that's where the majority of the $$$ comes in. He has stated that he has $2k to spend. You'll drop that on a Vortec or Procharger centrifugal s/c. It would cost SO much more to drop on a conventional screw or roots type because the lower manifold would have to be custom made to mate up properly or at the very least a custom adapter plate.
I do suppose that it would be likely (however remote the possibility) to buy a kit for a CSC kit 350 v8 but option it with the smallest available compressor and adapt it over to the 4.3L v6, but that is dependant on the accessory mount locations being the same which I have heard differing opinions on.
All scepticizm asside, anything can be done with $$$. Just depends on how much you want to shell out.
quote:
ORIGINAL: strongboy2005
quote:
ORIGINAL: swartlkk
And yes, any trustworthy shop will be able to perform the work (do not take it to a dealership!), but that is going to eat up a quarter of your budget (if not more) in labor.
How hard is it to do yourself?
With the right tools, it would take a competent back yard mechanic doing it for their first time acouple of days (no beer involved). For me, it would take an afternoon to get everything torn down, an hour or two to get the cam/lifters prep'd (which would probably have already happened before the tear down), and probably a day to get it back together checking everything as you go. Ofcourse, I'd have to have 1-2 cases of beer on hand! LOL
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Kyle-
2004 Rainier
1970 Chevelle - Resto
1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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RE: You have one month... - 2/13/2006 4:50:02 AM
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4lowlife
Posts: 1561
Joined: 12/29/2005
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Get a Camaro and install all of that. You can have 400HP under your
 foot.
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RE: You have one month... - 2/13/2006 1:19:33 PM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
Posts: 3475
Joined: 5/11/2005
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For 2K you could drop in a V8.
Personally, new exhaust system so she breathes better (at least headers, and a performance muffler), cold air intake, then get a programmer. Change your puter settings, also bump up your tranny shift points. Your auto tranny will give you an advantage. It has a torque multiplier off the line. It will multiply your torque by 2 1/2 times and gradually decrease until your torque converter matches your engine speed. Plus an auto tranny will shift faster then a manual, and you won't lose momentum like a manual. Drop your tire pressure some to get more grip. If you have cash left over, drop in a limited slip or a locker in the rear axle. One last trick. Put it in 4hi. Nothing worse then a one wheel peel. Once your off the line, pop her back into 2hi.
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"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: You have one month... - 2/13/2006 7:00:03 PM
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strongboy2005
Posts: 170
Joined: 1/28/2006
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Hanr3
For 2K you could drop in a V8.
Not in Cali :(
quote:
ORIGINAL: Hanr3
Personally, new exhaust system so she breathes better (at least headers, and a performance muffler), cold air intake, then get a programmer
Just got a new K&N FIPK kit in the mail, planning to do headers and exhaust later, preliminary tests on my Hypertech weren't too good, but I'm gonna retest with a higher octane... (My Review on the Hypertech)
quote:
ORIGINAL: Hanr3
Change your puter settings, also bump up your tranny shift points.
Yeah I changed my auto shift points with the Hypertech, really all it's been good for thus far...
quote:
ORIGINAL: Hanr3
Your auto tranny will give you an advantage. It has a torque multiplier off the line. It will multiply your torque by 2 1/2 times and gradually decrease until your torque converter matches your engine speed. Plus an auto tranny will shift faster then a manual, and you won't lose momentum like a manual.
Torque multiplier? Are you referring to the transmission gear ratios? If so... manual actually has taller gears than auto... Manual will also have less "parasitic loss" (I believe that's what it's called), so more of your torque will make it to the wheels...
quote:
ORIGINAL: Hanr3
If you have cash left over, drop in a limited slip or a locker in the rear axle. One last trick. Put it in 4hi. Nothing worse then a one wheel peel. Once your off the line, pop her back into 2hi.
Mine is the best case scenario already, actually... 2WD Positraction... I get perfect launches already...
_____________________________
2003 LS (4-door) Chevy Blazer 4.3L 2WD GU6 G80
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2257682
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