Heating A/C Concerns
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Heating A/C Concerns - 2/7/2006 7:50:12 AM
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*TLR*
Posts: 31
Joined: 7/5/2005
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Well, I have a 2002 S10 Blazer 4.3 4x4 LS
I used to have a 1995 S10 Blazer 4x4 LS
* Well currently heat does not get hot unless drving fast........
* The temp gage says 170 at idle..........
* Temp gage goes to 190 when driving fast.........
Could my thermostat be stuck open? causing my vehicle not to heat up to the standard 210
heres what i can tell you
I know when its in the DEFROST setting that it slighlty blows out the vents....(shouldnt do that)
I know the temp switch control itself works, cause if i turn it to the cold side it get really cold, if i turn it to the hot side it gets a little warmer (SO IT MUST BE OPERABLE)
I dont think its a vacuum problem, because i think if it was a vacuum problem, my 4x4 wouldnt activate. (because correct me if im wrong the switch for the 4x4 electrically controls a vacuum diapram to activate my front axle. That is the way it was on my 1995, when the little round vacuum ball was unplugged on my 1995 blazer my 4x4 front diff wouldnt lock in and my air system would default to the defroster vents only) Again the 202 blazer could be differant
DOES ANY ONE KNOW OF ANY OTHER KNOWN ISSUES THAT IT COULD BE
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/7/2006 10:08:13 AM
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DaveLance
Posts: 51
Joined: 1/28/2006
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Are you low on coolant?
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/7/2006 1:47:24 PM
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*TLR*
Posts: 31
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dont think so, i popped the radiator cap, and it look full, and there was some in the resevoir
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/7/2006 1:57:16 PM
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*TLR*
Posts: 31
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i know it sounds ignorant of me, but why would it not overheat if i was low on coolant, how would it seem to stay overcooled
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/7/2006 5:46:47 PM
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DaveLance
Posts: 51
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It was just a thought. When your blazer is warming up, does the gauge go up to 210, then drop down or does it stay around 170 the whole time?
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/7/2006 5:58:13 PM
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*TLR*
Posts: 31
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stays at 175ish unless driving fast.....then 185ish to 190
the only thing i can figure is this weekend give it a whulr and change the thermostat'
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/7/2006 7:39:23 PM
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20Blazer00
Posts: 863
Joined: 9/16/2005
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I have the same condition. And I have narrowed it down to a plugged heater core. Check your heater hoses and see if one hose is hotter than the other, this will tell you if the core is restricted....just have to reverse flush the core only and that should fix it. It only takes a few minutes and a couple of pieces of hose to connect onto the core at the firewall so you don't get coolant all over the place. You can use a large bucket to collect the coolant then take it to be recycled.
Or you can flush the complete system with a Prestone Flush-n-Fill kit. Although be aware that this method will not completely flush the heater core which is the real problem.....
_____________________________
Mark
2000 Blazer LS 4dr 4.3L Auto
1999 Grand Am 3.4L 4dr SE2 - Traded
2000 Honda Odyssey 3.5L 5dr Mini-Van
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/7/2006 9:51:29 PM
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DaveLance
Posts: 51
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That definitely sounds like a sticking t-stat. Throw in a 195 degree stat and do the heater hose check that 20Blazer00 mentioned.
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/7/2006 9:59:16 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 15304
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From: Waterloo, NY
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How long does it take to warm up in the morning?
I jump in mine and drive and about 2-3 miles down the road (with a 30*F outside temp) it's up to temp and blowing hot air at me. However, my truck runs at 175-180*F all day long, summer or winter. If I really push it (WOT A LOT), it may rise up to around 190. It is possible that you've got a 180* t-stat in there. I'm not sure if that is my case, but when I do a flush/fill, I'm replacing the stat with a 195*F anyway. That will happen this summer when my Bravada won't be used as much.
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/9/2006 8:22:02 AM
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*TLR*
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i will try to flush this weekend, if i remember i must put stuff in, drive around, empty......then i will change the thermostat while it is emptied, then i will fill with fresh anti-freeze..........i left it running for thre hours today, jumped in and it was cool.......but when started driving warmed up, especially at "WOT".......second came to light, blowing cooler air again
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/9/2006 10:04:01 AM
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swartlkk
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From: Waterloo, NY
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Also, another thing to do would be to use DI water (deionized). Especially if you have a well fed water system at home. For the tiny bit of added cost, it will only add life to the coolant.
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/10/2006 5:50:32 AM
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*TLR*
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wow, the guys at local shop think my fan clutch is stuck on, i went and bought a new thermostat, and a new clutch for the fan, i should get them both on this weekend, ill keep you all posted....let you know the results
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/10/2006 10:15:24 AM
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DaveLance
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The fan clutch is a good point. I forgot about that. 
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/10/2006 12:38:12 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 15304
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From: Waterloo, NY
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I wonder if that is my problem. I never hear it ROAR like my dad's does on his K2500... I get good heat though...
Yeah, a stuck on fan would keep it cool. Basically the only reason why you are seeing the temp rise under WOT is because it takes a certain amount of time for the heat to open the stat, then it'll cool off (can't stay at WOT forever).
Let us know how the repair goes!
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/13/2006 1:07:38 PM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
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I'll reply hear instead of your other thread.
You may have air trapped in the system. It is critical that the overflow tank stay at the correct fill levels, when the radiator cools back down it draws fluid from the overflow tank, no fluid and it draws air.
While I was at the dealership buying a flywheel this past weekend I talked to a Tech for a minute. One of the problems with the 2000 S10-Blazers is that the heating-a/c controls get screwed up when the t-case blows the input seal. When the t-case input seal leaks it draws in tranny fluid. That in of itself isn't bad, however when the t-case gets too full, the fluid travels up the vacuum hose and eventually makes its way into the vacuum controls on the heating-a/c system. Not saying your problem is here, however the test is to pull the top plug on the t-case and see if tranny fluid comes shooting out. Some will dribble out, that is normal. However if it seems like it is pouring out, you have a problem.
I hope it is just an air pocket.
_____________________________
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/14/2006 8:18:37 AM
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*TLR*
Posts: 31
Joined: 7/5/2005
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i will check the transfer this week.... but i really dont see how it plays the transfer and cooling system together, please go more in debth.....
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/15/2006 10:43:40 AM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
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The vacuum lines on the t-case are connected to the vacuum system used to control your climate controls in the cab of the truck. The fluid gets sucked up into the lines and permeates throughout the vacuum system. It fills up the vacuum lines in the cab that control your heater-a/c controls. In other words, the vacuum lines get full of tranny fluid and wont allow you to change the settings on the heat-a/c. It messes up the heat-a/c system inside the truck. Has nothing to do with the cooling system, however the heat-a/c controls control how much heat-a/c your cooling system has in the truck. An indirect connection to the cooling system. Not saying that is the case here, just something to be aware of, and it might tie into other issues you may have and not have mentioned.
More then likely your problem is just an air bubble.
_____________________________
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/15/2006 3:44:00 PM
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fruccoman
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Joined: 2/15/2006
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I had a similar problem..thought it was the heater core but it was replaced 2 1/2 years ago so that narrowed it down. I was getting a smell (like burt mample syrup) and no heat. My mechanic did a pressure test and found to be the intake manifold gasket was leaking. Once that was replaced and the DEC Cool Antifreeze(red) FULLY flusshed and replaced w/ Regular antifreeze(green)...Never had a problem. Heat is outstanding now.
Also, He had also 1st checked the heater hoses going into the firewall towards the heater core to see if one was hooter than the other...everything was fine. Also, when I mean fully flushed the DEC Cool out, he FULLY flushed it out. Drained the old DEC Coolant and ran water until nothing but clear water came out. Then replaced w/ the Regular coolant. DEC coolant sucks...it gunks up the gears and insides and causes more problems than good.
Hope that helps
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/15/2006 4:13:37 PM
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20Blazer00
Posts: 863
Joined: 9/16/2005
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The problem should be that the thermostat is stuck in the open position. I just flushed out my heater core last weekend and I only found dexcool and water, flushed it both ways to make sure. Then I replaced the thermostat and got back my heat.
If you are going to flush the whole system then make sure that you remove the t-stat before you pressurize it. I think this is why my cooling system (t-Stat) quit functioning, plus it was a cheap t-stat, when i pulled it out i found a rubber gasket pulled through the top possibly binding up the works. The only way I think that this could happen is if somebody pressure flushed the system with the t-stat in place...making it stick in the open position.
TIP: You will have to remove the throttle cable mount at the front of the throttle body to get at the back bolt of the t-stat housing.... other than that it is a piece of cake to remove.
_____________________________
Mark
2000 Blazer LS 4dr 4.3L Auto
1999 Grand Am 3.4L 4dr SE2 - Traded
2000 Honda Odyssey 3.5L 5dr Mini-Van
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RE: Heating A/C Concerns - 2/16/2006 10:37:42 PM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
Posts: 3523
Joined: 5/11/2005
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The only problem with Dexcool is if you get air in the system The air causes the sludge, not the dexcool. Keep your overfill tank properly filled and you wont have any problems.
_____________________________
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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