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Trailer wiring

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Trailer wiring - 3/16/2008 10:39:13 PM   
if6was9


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The PO of my Blazer put on a class two hitch, but didn't do anything for the wiring. In decoding the RPO #'s I found: UY7   WIRING HARNESS , "TRUCK TRAILER, HD". I also scouted things under the rear bumper and found a wire loom that dead ended. Is this the trailer wiring? I would think GM engineers would leave a pig tail for trailer wires to be added.

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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/16/2008 11:35:59 PM   
Taymacjack



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yeah that should be the trailer wiring. should be 7 wires in the loom. I just did this the other day. I got a 7 way RV  plug, drilled out that hole by the lisence plate with a hole saw, and just bolted it on. It was alot easier than i thought...

< Message edited by Taymacjack -- 3/16/2008 11:45:01 PM >


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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/17/2008 4:31:09 AM   
swartlkk


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Take a look in your owners manual for the wiring identification information.

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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/17/2008 10:08:40 AM   
94blueknight


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there was just a thread on this kinda not to long ago i dont remember the name of the thread tho it was by a_tack in the general chat i believe

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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/17/2008 1:13:44 PM   
drperry


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quote:

ORIGINAL: Taymacjack

yeah that should be the trailer wiring. should be 7 wires in the loom. I just did this the other day. I got a 7 way RV  plug, drilled out that hole by the lisence plate with a hole saw, and just bolted it on. It was alot easier than i thought...



That's what I did, too!

But only  really useful on a 2 door, otherwise you won't be able to get your spare tire on a 4 door.


I'd reccomend going to a class 3/4 hitch, unless you never tow anything heavy.

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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/17/2008 11:42:56 PM   
Taymacjack



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quote:

ORIGINAL: drperry

quote:

ORIGINAL: Taymacjack

yeah that should be the trailer wiring. should be 7 wires in the loom. I just did this the other day. I got a 7 way RV  plug, drilled out that hole by the lisence plate with a hole saw, and just bolted it on. It was alot easier than i thought...



That's what I did, too!

But only  really useful on a 2 door, otherwise you won't be able to get your spare tire on a 4 door.


I'd reccomend going to a class 3/4 hitch, unless you never tow anything heavy.

ha ha thats true. yeah don't drill out that hole if your spare is underneath!!!

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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/18/2008 11:43:13 AM   
a_tack


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my wiring thread was about a poor ground on a utility trailer... but I can answer this one..lol

if you are not towing anything heavy then just put on a 4-flat plug...

peel back the tape on the loom and there should be 7 wires.. the colors are as follows..

Yellow-left turn
Green-right turn
Brown-tail/stop
White-ground

(you will only need those four for a 4-flat plug)
If you insist on a 7 prong RV setup, then you will need the other 3 wires and a bigger hitch as a class 2 is not rated to pull anything big enough to use trailer brakes... the others are..

Orange-auxillary power (batt. charger on camper, etc..)
Blue-Trailer Brakes
and I think Purple(may be another color, but no color is in there twice)-Reverse lights


hope this helps, but I would seriously consider changing hitches to a class 3, 2" reciever because your blazer will tow more than a class 2 is rated for!


all of these wires are already tapped into the trucks electrical system. All you need to do is add the desired plug. If you get a 7-prong RV plug and wish to add trailer brakes, after wiring it properly you should be able to get a brake balance controller and the proper harness and just plug it in under the dash..


I have a class 3 hitch and a 4-flat plug. I never pull a trailer that breaks 3000lbs (bass boat)... and driving properly, your blazer's factory 4-wheel disc will stop a trailer that size with no problem..

< Message edited by a_tack -- 3/18/2008 11:54:22 AM >


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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/18/2008 1:02:46 PM   
if6was9


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Not that I'm going to use them; but is the trailer brake tied to the Blazers brake circuit? Or is an additional trailer brake unit needed?

I will only be towing my motorcycles and trailers under 1150 GVW. I don't think I'd want to tow anything heaver. 


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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/18/2008 1:16:13 PM   
drperry


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You'd need a brake controller... And you'll only have the brake controller wire going under the dash if you have the towing package, I believe.

Also, the orange wire is only there if you have the towing/trailer package...

The hitch should have its weight ratings on it somewhere...

For that amount of weight, you should be good... But I'd double check.

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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/18/2008 1:50:31 PM   
if6was9


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Cool! Yea I had a class 4 hitch on my old K1500, and pulled a friends Sallien to Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course many a time. I had a nice adjustible controler for that. I forgot to look for a class rating on the Blazer's hitch. Will do. Thanks again all!  

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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/18/2008 2:23:43 PM   
drperry


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Class II
Class II hitches are weight carrying (WC) hitches rated up to 3500 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 300 lbs. This style of hitch typically uses a 1-1/4" square receiver opening. The use of a drawbar and hitch ball of the same rating or higher is required. Class II hitches normally attach to the vehicle frame and or bumper. Always consult your owner's manual for vehicle rating.


According to the Draw-Tite website...
That's 400lbs away from my maximum tow rating! lol

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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/18/2008 10:55:32 PM   
a_tack


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quote:

ORIGINAL: drperry

You'd need a brake controller... And you'll only have the brake controller wire going under the dash if you have the towing package, I believe.

Also, the orange wire is only there if you have the towing/trailer package...

The hitch should have its weight ratings on it somewhere...

For that amount of weight, you should be good... But I'd double check.


I believe the orange, purple, and blue wires are only there if you have a tow package... but not positive.... If you have the tow package you should not have any loose wires under the dash.. just a nice little premade harness that plugs into the brake controller and into a plug under the dash.

also, if you have an automatic, your tow capacity is a bit more than the manual blazers..

< Message edited by a_tack -- 3/18/2008 11:02:13 PM >


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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/19/2008 3:15:43 AM   
drperry


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I know for sure the non-tow packaged does NOT have the orange wire
I have a spool of 10 guage wire I need to run to the back of my truck when I get a chance...

The manual Blazer's got screwed towing wise... 3900lbs for the loss, lol.

I'm almost 100% certain that it's the clutch that limits it, though... The 1/2 ton 4.3L with the 5 speed can tow 4100lbs... And yes, that's the NV3500 in there too

For the 5-speed Blazer's it's either the clutch or the transmission... The autos have the same tranfser case, so that rules that out... and the 5-speeds get the 8.5" ( same size as the 1/2 ton ) rear diff (iron up front, instead of aluminum, for the 4x4s)

When I snag myself a nice trailer, and a quad, I'll be sure to post up the effects of hauling 2 - 3 quads in an enclosed 16 - 18 foot trailer

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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/21/2008 11:05:09 PM   
4x4blazerguy


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quote:

ORIGINAL: a_tack

quote:

ORIGINAL: drperry

You'd need a brake controller... And you'll only have the brake controller wire going under the dash if you have the towing package, I believe.

Also, the orange wire is only there if you have the towing/trailer package...

The hitch should have its weight ratings on it somewhere...

For that amount of weight, you should be good... But I'd double check.


I believe the orange, purple, and blue wires are only there if you have a tow package... but not positive.... If you have the tow package you should not have any loose wires under the dash.. just a nice little premade harness that plugs into the brake controller and into a plug under the dash.

also, if you have an automatic, your tow capacity is a bit more than the manual blazers..


On my 97 Blazer 4x4 I believe the reciever which is a 2" is factory. I see a bundle of wires dead ended with a GM tag with #s wrapped around the harness. I haven't looked to see how many wires are in it.
My question is, where under the dash can I find a harness for the Brake controller?
Thanks,
Craig

< Message edited by 4x4blazerguy -- 3/21/2008 11:12:15 PM >

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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/21/2008 11:21:11 PM   
a_tack


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I will have to look under my dash in the morning. I believe it is just a plug kinda like the one you check your computer codes from (like the pickups) but im not positive.. I run a flat 4 setup because I dont have a trailer with brakes..

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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/27/2008 1:53:39 PM   
if6was9


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I talked to the previous owner yesterday, and he did have a class three hitch installed by the dealer. For some reason I thought it was a class 2. 

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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/27/2008 9:03:29 PM   
a_tack


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as long as it is a 2" reciever it is at least a class 3... class 2 is a 1 1/4" reciever..

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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/28/2008 2:44:30 AM   
drperry


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Aaron, you should crawl under your truck and check the guage of the brake controller wire

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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/28/2008 11:22:48 AM   
a_tack


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haha... we'll work on that... i think its like a 12 or 14 ... not positive tho.. ill have to check.. I know its a bit thicker than the others..

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RE: Trailer wiring - 3/28/2008 11:58:30 AM   
if6was9


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The red, blue and white wires are 12 or 10 gauge at the bumper end. Yellow, green and brown are 16 or 18. There's a light green and light blue wire I'm clueless about. I know all I need are the yellow, green, brown and white for the 4 pin.

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