Rear glass latch rattle (Full Version)

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Rear glass latch rattle

  

Duntov -> Rear glass latch rattle (3/22/2008 1:08:03 PM)

I have the factory installed rattle coming from the rear glass on my 1991 S10 Blazer 4D 4WD. I wrapped the striker with a strip  duct tape until the glass was difficult to open and close and the rattle was  eliminated for about 100 miles. The vibratation of the glass will wear  through the duct tape and the rattle destressingly returns. Lubricating the latch with WD-40 or anything else does not work . I also installed two 2" long weatherstrips in the lower corners of the inside glass molding to tighten the glass to the channel with some results.  

Now I find that it was a GM technical service problem but did not warrant a vehicle recall.  A Technical Service Bullletin  was issued April 1, 1995 that describes the installation of a revised stricker in the back glass. The bulletin is  TSB # GM 161514 . If I can get my hands on a copy of that service bulletin, I may be ables to see what the problem is and how to fix it. 

I ordered a new striker for the back glass latch from the Chevrolet dealsership yesterday. I will examine the striker when I receive it to see what design change there was. My original striker seems to have a wear spot in it from rubbing in the latch. The worn spot may be where the problem  is and maybe the new striker will fix the problem. A new striker is still available through the Chevrolet  Parts Department , part number 15547909  and costs  $12.30.

  
Blazin_Jason -> RE: Rear glass latch rattle (3/22/2008 2:53:07 PM)

Did you order just the striker or the whole handle?  I ordered the whole handle because I couldn't get the plastic handle undone.  The brass nuts that are molded or pressed into the handle was spinning on the bolt that goes through the glass.  I had to cut the handle away till I could get a good grip on the brass nut to remove the bolt.  My replacement latch looked exactly like the stock one.  I bought #12541368.  You might have to adjust the latch in the tailgate once you get the new latch on.  

Duntov -> RE: Rear glass latch rattle (3/22/2008 4:54:57 PM)

I only purchased the striker and gasket for my 1991 S10 Blazer 4D 4X4 Friday and it should be at the dealership parts department Monday. I feel that wil solve the probem.. The latch assembly is not the cause of the problem.  I anylized the situation and I believe excessive wear on the striker is what causes the rattle. When the striker is new, it only squeaks and  routine  lubrication  will solve that problem but as the striker continues to wear  and clearance develops between the striker and the latch, it begins to rattle. The latch is made of harder material than the striker and the striker is what wears and develops  clearance that leads to a rattle. It is likely that the so called "new design" striker that is mentioned in the GM Technical Service Bulletin is made of harder material and will last as long as the latch. 

It only takes about .007" clearance between the latch and the striker to start an annoying rattle and the rattle will get louder as the striker continues to wear.  My striker is  worn  about .008" . Examine your striker and I feel like you will see the wear pattern caused by the latch.

JoeRock -> RE: Rear glass latch rattle (3/23/2008 12:43:42 PM)

END GATE LATCH RATTLE-INSTALL REVISED STRIKER ASSEMBLY #16-15-14 - (Apr 11, 1995)

SUBJECT: END GATE LATCH RATTLE (INSTALL REVISED STRIKER ASSEMBLY) MODELS: 1983-94 CHEVROLET AND GMC TRUCK S/T UTILITY MODELS 1991-94 OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA *********************************************************** THIS BULLETIN IS BEING REVISED TO ADD THE 1993-94 MODEL YEARS AND TO MODIFY THE SERVICE PROCEDURE. PREVIOUS DIVISIONAL PUBLICATION NUMBERS WERE: CHEVROLET 92- 153-10 GMC TRUCK 92- 2-216 GM OF CANADA 92- 10-68 OLDSMOBILE 92- T-77 ***********************************************************

CONDITION:
SOME OWNERS MAY COMMENT THAT THEIR END GATE LATCH RATTLES.

CAUSE: ONE POSSIBLE CAUSE OF THIS CONDITION IS THE HEAD OF THE STRIKER CONTACTING THE SHEET METAL AT THE END GATE LATCH FLANGE. ANOTHER POSSIBLE CAUSE IS THE END GATE LATCH FORK BOLTS MAKING METAL-TO-METAL CONTACT WITH THE STRIKER ASSEMBLY CAUSING A RATTLE.

CORRECTION: TO CORRECT THIS CONDITION, IT IS NECESSARY TO REMOVE SOME OF THE SHEET METAL FROM THE END GATE LATCH FLANGES. THIS WILL PREVENT THE HEAD OF THE STRIKER FROM CONTACTING THE SHEET METAL AND CREATE A LARGER POCKET WHEN THE END GATE IS CLOSED. IT IS ALSO NECESSARY TO INSTALL A NEW STRIKER ASSEMBLY THAT HAS A FULL URETHANE SLEEVE OVER THE STRIKER POST. THE URETHANE SLEEVE PREVENTS METAL-TO-METAL CONTACT AND MAY ELIMINATE THE RATTLE. SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. OPEN THE END GATE TO THE HORIZONTAL POSITION.

2. REMOVE THE TRIM PANEL FOLLOWING THE PROCEDURE IN SECTION 10A5 OF THE SERVICE MANUAL.

3. REMOVE APPROXIMATELY 2 MM (5/64 INCH) OF SHEET METAL FROM THE END GATE LATCH FLANGES (FIGURE 1, A).

4. REPAINT THE EXPOSED METAL ON THE FLANGE AREA TO PREVENT CORROSION. BODY-COLOR OR BLACK PAINT IS ACCEPTABLE.

5. USE A GREASE PENCIL TO MARK AROUND THE CIRCUMFERENCE OF EACH WASHER (FIGURE 2, A) LOCATED BEHIND THE STRIKERS.

6. UNSCREW AND REMOVE THE EXISTING STRIKER ASSEMBLIES FROM THE VEHICLE (FIGURE 2, B).

7. INSTALL ONE NEW STRIKER (P/N 15966638) AND ONE 1 MM THICK WASHER, POSITIONING THEM SO THAT THE END GATE LATCH RESTS COMPLETELY ON THE URETHANE STRIKER SLEEVE. THE END GATE SHOULD SEAL COMPLETELY WITH A MINIMUM OF CLOSING EFFORT.IMPORTANT: IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO ADD A SECOND 1 MM THICK WASHER TO THE STRIKER TO ENSURE THAT THE HEAD OF THE STRIKER DOES NOT CONTACT THE LATCH.

8. INSTALL THE OTHER NEW STRIKER IN THE SAME MANNER.IMPORTANT: EACH STRIKER SHOULD BE MOVED APPROXIMATELY THE SAME AMOUNT. THE STRIKERS MUST EXHIBIT AN EQUAL AMOUNT OF PRESSURE ON THE SEAL.

9. INSPECT THE SLIDING WEDGES LOCATED IN THE END GATE OPENING TO ENSURE THAT THEY ARE LOCATED AT APPROXIMATELY HALF OF THEIR TRAVEL DISTANCE WHEN THE END GATE IS CLOSED.

10. READJUST THE STRIKERS IF THE WEDGES ARE NOT LOCATED AS SPECIFIED OR IF THE END GATE IS NOT FLUSH.

11. TORQUE THE STRIKER ASSEMBLIES TO 63 N.M (47 LBS. FT.).

12. CHECK THE WINDOW LATCH ASSEMBLY FOR PROPER ADJUSTMENT BY REFERRING TO SECTION 10A5 OF THE SERVICE MANUAL.IMPORTANT: TO PREVENT FURTHER SQUEAKS AND RATTLES IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT THE LIFTGLASS FIRMLY COMPRESS THE WEATHERSTRIP.

13. REINSTALL THE TRIM PANEL BY REFERRING TO SECTION 10A5 OF THE SERVICE MANUAL.

14. CLOSE THE END GATE.PARTS INFORMATION: P/N DESCRIPTION QTY 15966638 STRIKER ASSEMBLY 2 PARTS ARE CURRENTLY AVAILABLE FROM GMSPO.

Duntov -> RE: Rear glass latch rattle (3/23/2008 1:53:08 PM)

Thanks for the transcription of that Technical Service Bulletin!  

That is the Technical Service Bulletin I was referring to in my initial posting. I will re-order the striker  with the urethane  sleeve,  part #15966638. Apparently the one I ordered Friday is the original type striker unless there has been a part number change.

My rear glass is not rattling at all after I wrapped the striker with a 1/2" wide strip of duct tape but it makesthe wimdow  more difficult to open.  That is a temporary solution to the rattling problem until I can get the new striker and modify the latch assembly as outlined in the TSB.

I sent a copy to myself of the TSB you transcribed here since that is the likely only copy I will be able to find. I advise others with that problem to do the same.

swartlkk -> RE: Rear glass latch rattle (3/23/2008 7:02:33 PM)

Wow...  It is one thing to post a TSB with proper formatting, but to repost something like that in full caps with no line breaks...  Well, it is just VERY difficult to read.  If you are going to take the time to find the information for others, please take the time to format it properly so it is easier for everyone to read.  Thanks!

Duntov -> RE: Rear glass latch rattle (3/24/2008 8:15:21 AM)

I don't care if you wrote the TSB in upper case, lower case or in  Latin,  I appreciate your posting it. If you have access to other TSB on other subjects, don't hesitate to transcribe them here in any format you feel like doing. Those TSB publications are valuable documents.   

This rear hatch glass rattle thing seems to be a common problem and I know many owners also appreciate your input regardless of how it was made. 

swartlkk -> RE: Rear glass latch rattle (3/24/2008 9:30:16 AM)

It is simple to edit as JoeRock has done so already.  It is 10 times easier to read now!  Thanks!!

The CAPS isn't that big of a deal for something that is copy/paste, but the formatting should atleast be modified in case it doesn't come across properly in the paste...  Just makes it that much easier to read for everyone.

Duntov -> RE: Rear glass latch rattle (3/24/2008 11:44:53 AM)

I just found out from the Chevrolet dealership parts department that the strikers that TSB 16-15-14 is  referring to (15966638) is located in the quarter panel on each side of the END GATE as stated in the bulletin and not the back glass. 

The striker I was referring to is the one for the back glass (15547909) and as far as I know, there was no service bulletin issued on that problem. My back glass striker is worn as I mentioned before  so the new one may help eliminate or at least reduce the rattlle.    I have no problem with my end gate rattling and I suppose that is mainly due to the spare tire carrier having a dampening effect on any rattle coming from the end gate latches unless you go over a large bump in the road.  Neither striker on the end gate seems to be worn.

coldsteel2005 -> RE: Rear glass latch rattle (5/31/2008 6:17:32 PM)

Duntov,
Did you ever find any more info on that rear glass rattle on your Blazer? I have the same year and make Blazer you have. Even have the same rattle!
Hope you can help.
             Philip

Duntov -> RE: Rear glass latch rattle (6/1/2008 5:43:32 AM)

I have found no permanent  solution to the rear glass rattle. The best solution so far is to wrap  the striker with a 3/4" x 6" strip of duct tape. That will reduce the rattle for about three weeks. The window latch mechanism will eventually wear through the duct tape and the rattle will return. As the window  latch vibrates it wears through any kind of material you can put on the striker that dampens the rattle. 

The latch mechanism will  also wear  a groove in the striker which will increase the clearance between the two making the rattle more noticable.  I installed a new OEM striker / plate assembly and it helped very little. 

swartlkk -> RE: Rear glass latch rattle (6/1/2008 6:50:12 AM)

Anyone ever try to either weld or liquid metal the striker to build it up and make it tighter?  Seems that a bead of weld on the stricker itself to build it up would help.  I've done this on a few different vehicles where the latch itself just seems too loose.  Then file/grind it down so that everything still works like it should...  Just a thought.  Liquid metal would be something to start with to prove out the concept.

94blueknight -> RE: Rear glass latch rattle (6/1/2008 1:37:00 PM)

i didnt read thru the whole thread so forgive me if this was already said.

i was replacing my tailgate this weekend due to rust and the problem is that the rear window latch is not properly aligned. u have to take the interior piece off of the tailgate, then peal back the plastic by the latch and unbolt the cover. once that cover is off u will be able to access the entire latch for the rear window/tailgate. there r 2 studs from the latch assembly they r held in by 2 nuts w/ washers on the end. the holes that these r attached to r slotted so u can move them around to get the latch in the right spot then tighten it down. make sure that the window striker will go all the way back and firmly against the weatherstripping to assure there is no more squeek.

I think this will solve ur problem.

mr.vls -> RE: Rear glass latch rattle (6/1/2008 3:09:19 PM)

I have brazed filler material on my latch to build up the wear point.  Read a previous post of mine where I made a brass sleeve and epoxied it to the latch.  It works great but it is not permanent either as I just had to epoxy once again.  The brass sleeve gives a large surface area for a contact point. 

Below is my thread on this very subject

http://www.blazerforum.com/m_153099/tm.htm

  

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