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Tip to installing new torsion keys

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Tip to installing new torsion keys - 4/8/2008 7:05:27 AM   
95_4door


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I just lifted the front of my truck with new torsion keys. I ran into problems putting the new ones in though.
I put a two jaw puller on the crossmember, and before I have the keys high enough to put the threaded blocks back in, the crossmember was so bent from the puller, one of the jaws fell off.
I would definitely recomend to weld a piece of 1/4 inch thick steel to the crossmember on both the front and the back at both ends. It helps reinforce it a lot. That is the only way that I was able to finish putting the keys in.
I'm not sure if anybody else has ran into this problem before or not, but I just thought that I would throw it out there.

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RE: Tip to installing new torsion keys - 4/8/2008 1:48:43 PM   
WolfPack


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Would a torsion bar loader/unloader tool have done the job without the tweaked crossmember or the plate steel?  I'm not entirely too sure what that tool looks like much less how exactly it works...I just remember reading that for safety that's the best thing.

Glad you got em in though!


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2000 Blazer 4d LS 4x4 - 265/70/15 General Grabber AT2s - Hunter Brush Guard - Surco Roof Rack with IPF 868s - 1.5'' Shackle + Tbar - 2'' BL

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RE: Tip to installing new torsion keys - 4/8/2008 4:58:48 PM   
95_4door


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I'm honestly not sure. From what I've been told is the GM torsion bar tool is only a 5 ton 2 jaw puller.
I don't know if that is correct, but I just thought I would throw my experience out for others to maybe help them.


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Bill

1995 Chevy Blazer
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RE: Tip to installing new torsion keys - 4/9/2008 9:44:23 PM   
a_tack


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quote:

ORIGINAL: 95_4door

I'm honestly not sure. From what I've been told is the GM torsion bar tool is only a 5 ton 2 jaw puller.
I don't know if that is correct, but I just thought I would throw my experience out for others to maybe help them.



It is not just a puller. There are actually two different loading/unloading tool styles you can get. One looks like a beefy C-Clamp:


And the others look like this:





the top one is a designated GM only part. The bottom two are rated to also work on Ford trucks.

Using a two jaw puller will do nothing more than damage your corssmember. You can use a C-clamp but it isnt very safe.

< Message edited by a_tack -- 4/9/2008 9:59:42 PM >


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RE: Tip to installing new torsion keys - 4/9/2008 9:51:28 PM   
WolfPack


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no pic on tool #2.

And how does the beefy c clamp help...dont you have to actually twist the bar to pre-load?  Or what is involved?


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2000 Blazer 4d LS 4x4 - 265/70/15 General Grabber AT2s - Hunter Brush Guard - Surco Roof Rack with IPF 868s - 1.5'' Shackle + Tbar - 2'' BL

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RE: Tip to installing new torsion keys - 4/9/2008 9:58:04 PM   
a_tack


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Here ya go... this should explain.....


You must first compress/load the bar with the beefy c-clamp thing. Then you remove the adjuster bolt/block. You then carefully unload the bar by unscrewing said torsion tool. To re-install you reverse that process...

< Message edited by a_tack -- 4/9/2008 10:05:41 PM >


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-Aaron

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RE: Tip to installing new torsion keys - 4/10/2008 2:30:15 PM   
95_4door


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That sure would have made it easier..

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Bill

1995 Chevy Blazer
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RE: Tip to installing new torsion keys - 4/13/2008 6:07:22 AM   
fst450

 

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hey 95_4door just wondering what you think of your t key lift how much height did you get? and how does she ride?

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RE: Tip to installing new torsion keys - 4/13/2008 9:48:35 AM   
95_4door


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I got about 5-6 inches over the lowered height. It was already lowered when I got it, so I can't really tell you how much over stock.
I haven't even had a chance to drive it yet. I just got my motor running, but it still has open headers, and I don't want to bring that much attention to me. (a v8 with open headers is pretty loud)

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1995 Chevy Blazer
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v8 Swap

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RE: Tip to installing new torsion keys - 4/13/2008 11:05:50 AM   
prozach1988

 

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yea with mine it just separated the upper control arm and it was a lot easier to get the key in that way

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Torsion Keys and Shackles

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