RE: Audio Noob
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RE: Audio Noob - 5/5/2008 5:58:50 PM
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dbleon
Posts: 319
Joined: 8/31/2007
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I have these:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p41/dbleon/Blazer/DSC00907-1.jpg
But there the highest end infinities you can buy. I had reference series in the past and liked them quite well... I have actually heard the woven glass kappas in the past, but I honestly cant remember what they sounded like. That means they probably weren't too good or too bad.
Are you gonna amp them or run them off the HU???
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Dan
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RE: Audio Noob - 5/5/2008 8:35:39 PM
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otnietdehoooo
The Chop Shop Moderator
Posts: 1611
Joined: 5/25/2007
From: Ft. Worth, TX
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: dbleon
I have these:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p41/dbleon/Blazer/DSC00907-1.jpg
But there the highest end infinities you can buy. I had reference series in the past and liked them quite well... I have actually heard the woven glass kappas in the past, but I honestly cant remember what they sounded like. That means they probably weren't too good or too bad.
Are you gonna amp them or run them off the HU???
Well, I have a 4chan old school Orion amp thats around 60-70w RMS per channel. I have 2 main plans and just can't decide what to go for.
1) Buy one or two pair of ~60w RMS speakers (coax would be easier but I know comps should sound better) and replace my existing ~25w RMS speakers in all 4 doors.
or
2) Bridge the amp to 2 channels and buy a real nice set of speakers for the front doors (~120w RMS.) Run the rear speakers and the 4x6 plates in the dash off the headunit.
Option 2 should sound a LOT better but it would end up being a lot more work and probably cost more... I would also need to rewire the front door speakers.
The main reason I would prefer coax over comps is because, I am not gonna attempt my own kickpanels and I recently bought Infinity 4x6 plates to replace the dash speakers and kinda think it would be a waste to take them out after a few months of use. However, I know the benefits of component speakers... it would just be more work.
Opinions on THESE?
< Message edited by otnietdehoooo -- 5/5/2008 8:44:38 PM >
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Matt - 98 4DR 4WD
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RE: Audio Noob - 5/5/2008 9:40:27 PM
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dbleon
Posts: 319
Joined: 8/31/2007
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I would choose to go with comps. You dont have to do kicks, just stick the 6" in the door in the factory location, and find a place to custom mount the tweeters. it shouldnt be that much work at all. I would just leave the rear speakers out unless you carry passengers all the time. Rear speakers will ruin any good imaging that comps make. Bar none the best thing you will ever do to a sound system is to add quality components... theres just no comparision to that warm sound that will give you goosbumps.
The only mb quarts I have heard were the polyglass comps (dont know the model), I thought the mids were great, but the tweeters were pretty harsh. As with any speaker I would suggest trying to listen to it first. People have different tastes and you cant really take a persons reccomendation without hearing the speaker. Once you get into the high end comps, you can pretty much be assured that they will sound good though....
But I strongly suggest running comps if you already have the amp. I would bridge that amp to a pair of these
http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=126&idproduct=194
Pretty much as good as it gets for under $100. Phenominal midbass ;)
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Dan
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RE: Audio Noob - 5/6/2008 4:46:18 AM
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blazinrebel
Posts: 91
Joined: 3/26/2008
Status: offline
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my dad has the infinity's in his truck. they sound pretty good and he matched them with the infinity tweeter which is one of the better tweeters i have heard
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'93 Chevy Blazer (Full-Size) two-door
350 small block
4x4
JL Audio Sub and Amp
Custom Camo Interior
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RE: Audio Noob - 5/7/2008 7:20:39 PM
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Butts
Posts: 26
Joined: 2/3/2008
Status: offline
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MVPalmer271, you should run with coaxials in your situation.
Once you need more, buy a good set of components and a decent amp. Build some kicks for the 6'' mid and soft dome tweeter I think that you should purchase. Purchase another tweeter for the lower "A pillar" and cross it over to 8khz-10khz. This will bring the soundstage "up" and not cause alot of off axis frequency and deflection problems.
You don"t seem like you really need anything crazy right now so just get some good coaxials and power them off the HU.
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