Poor Man's Painting
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Poor Man's Painting - 5/13/2008 1:00:37 AM
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curse
Posts: 171
Joined: 3/27/2008
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Alright im tired of my blazer's paint. It was fine when i got it, very pretty dark blue blazer right? Wrong the original is fire engine red(not bad, i like red) So the paint starts to chip around the edges, looks like they didnt take off the weather stripping when they did this so now i'm paying for someone else's mistake.
Now i'm no noobie when it comes to painting, i've done some nice work with plastic and steel when it came to computer cases. This is different, my computer cases dont go 90 mph, dont hit bugs, and dont touch water bird **** and what not.
I understand the need to completely go to metal by sanding, bondoing(figure of speech) the nicks, primer
but then comes the painting, what type of paint is best under the poorman's list? How to apply the paint? And how do you protect this paint from the elements, will the normal wax routine work or do i need to put a **** load of clear coat on it next.
I read jharper's post thats all i can find on this. Unlike him i am DIYer that has time on his hands. FYI im going with the factory red.
max im looking at spending is 200
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RE: Poor Man's Painting - 5/13/2008 4:10:00 AM
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igot10pinitis
Posts: 470
Joined: 6/3/2007
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dont be mad when i tell you this but 200 will get you nowhere, not even a decent gun
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RE: Poor Man's Painting - 5/13/2008 6:12:55 AM
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WolfPack
Posts: 2784
Joined: 10/30/2007
From: Raleigh, NC
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I'd have to agree.
I did this back in high school with my dad over the course of a 2 weekends, one for the yellow, one for the black stripes. It used to be white!
The whole idea was save $$.....but the catch is that we already had the heavy duty air compressor with 40 gal tank. We picked up 2 paint sprayers (the basic can under sprayer, not the gravity feed) at Harbor Freight, then bought the paint from a local shop that supplies most of the body shops around us.
Bought fleet yellow paint, which was acrylic enamel or something else tough sounding  , and the 1 gallon paint, together with the required amounts of reducer and the hardener (hardener is the 3rd part right? it's been a few years) cost <200 for the yellow, but the black was about 100 bucks itself.
Then on top of that, we used power drills with metal stripping pads, and ended up killing one drill (+$90), lots of sand paper and stripping pads, then 1 gallon of bondo and some rust dr. to fix the spots ($30ish), about 6 cans of Krylon spray primer, and 5000000 rolls of masking tape to count to prep it for spray.
There were quite a few other problems we had that made it more tricky, but all in all it ended up costing about $500 and a whollleeee lotta time, but like I said, it was summer
And just look at finish! No clear 
It's worth looking into, but if you don't have the compressor already, or a local shop that can supply you with paint, you're looking at a whole lot more than $200 
Also Maaco or one of the cheaper places I believe charge about 500 for their lowest level (one spray, no prep) of paint. My 500 got me door jambs, engine bay, multiple coats +sanding, 2nd color, and a finish 
< Message edited by WolfPack -- 5/13/2008 6:34:23 AM >
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2000 Blazer 4d LS 4x4 - 265/70/15 General Grabber AT2s - Hunter Brush Guard - Surco Roof Rack with IPF 868s - 1.5'' Shackle + Tbar - 2'' BL
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RE: Poor Man's Painting - 5/13/2008 12:15:08 PM
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garry2000blazer
Posts: 125
Joined: 2/28/2007
From: Huntsville, AL
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Acrylic enamel was THE car paint through the 60's into the early 80's until the two stage (base coat/clear coat) paints took over. It is durable and will have a nice shine when it's taken care of.
I'm stretching my knowledge limit here, but if I'm not mistaken you shouldn't take it down to bare metal except for rust spots and dings you need to repair. The primers and paints that the factories use are very durable and are applied using an electrolysis process that really binds it to the metal. You'll have less chance of rust bubbles or poor adhesion (plus it's a lot less sanding!). Just get yourself through the blue paint and have a good scuffing on the original paint and you should be fine. (Attention all painters with a lot more experience than me...this is where you pipe in and make sure I'm not misleading Curse!!!!)
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'81 Harley Sturgis Lowrider
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RE: Poor Man's Painting - 5/13/2008 12:50:38 PM
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curse
Posts: 171
Joined: 3/27/2008
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lol well bad thing is, there is rust on the bottom, very little but its noticable.
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RE: Poor Man's Painting - 5/13/2008 3:03:21 PM
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igot10pinitis
Posts: 470
Joined: 6/3/2007
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you can go the single stage way if you want (as mentioned). It will look good for awhile, but dulls out over time, and there are only so many times you can buff it back up before you go thru to metal.
Still though, your going to have more than 200 just in supplies with sand paper, tape ect. And gary makes a very good point, you do not have to take it down to bare metal, just feather out your chips on the hood, ect. i would hit it with some 320 all the way around, body work it and scuff the rust with a pad the rust you mention should be fixed Paint will not fix it, it will be back.
if you have anymore ?'s let me know
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RE: Poor Man's Painting - 5/13/2008 5:19:26 PM
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igot10pinitis
Posts: 470
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yeah get the pics. There is no need to sand all the blue off when your just going to cover it with red. just scuff the blue up so the red will stick, save yourself a lot of time.
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RE: Poor Man's Painting - 5/13/2008 6:48:33 PM
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WolfPack
Posts: 2784
Joined: 10/30/2007
From: Raleigh, NC
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I can't say much for maintaining the finish...the pontiac developed a nasty exhaust leak about a year after painting, which eventually caused every sensor to die....and so we towed it to the junk yard and bought my blazer
For that year though, just the fall/spring wax kept it mirror-y-ish. And come to think of it, we didn't go down to bare metal on all the panels..But there was a substantial amount of rust at pretty much every seam/corner...so there was alot of metal we got to.
If I recall though, clear coat is VERY expensive, so you might want to stick with enamel, and maybe just one light coat of clear to give some buffing longevity?
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2000 Blazer 4d LS 4x4 - 265/70/15 General Grabber AT2s - Hunter Brush Guard - Surco Roof Rack with IPF 868s - 1.5'' Shackle + Tbar - 2'' BL
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RE: Poor Man's Painting - 5/14/2008 3:20:48 PM
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WolfPack
Posts: 2784
Joined: 10/30/2007
From: Raleigh, NC
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That's how my pontiac was. Used a steel wire stripping brush hooked up to a HD power drill and just ground out all the edges and around all the weather stripping and flashing. I think you should do it
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2000 Blazer 4d LS 4x4 - 265/70/15 General Grabber AT2s - Hunter Brush Guard - Surco Roof Rack with IPF 868s - 1.5'' Shackle + Tbar - 2'' BL
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RE: Poor Man's Painting - 5/15/2008 10:47:17 AM
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ron768
Posts: 10
Joined: 3/10/2008
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As for paint guns, no need to buy an expensive paint gun. Most shops use HVLP guns and the painters will tell you that an expensive gun cost more to maintain than the cheap ones. When the cheap ones wear out, just throe it away and go buy a new one. Harbor Freight sells good HVLP guns for 50-100 dollars. I got the mid-range one for about 60 dollars and used it til it would not pattern right. I painted a car and a truck and a couple of motorcycles.
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RE: Poor Man's Painting - 5/15/2008 3:24:28 PM
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igot10pinitis
Posts: 470
Joined: 6/3/2007
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as far as painting your car with a roller, its new to me!!!
i do this for a living, and yes the expensive guns cost more to take care of, but they do a MUCH better job. You get what you pay for. The cheap guns are ok as far as primer, but when it comes to laying about a metallic or making your clear look like glass i will take an expensive gun. For what you save buying a cheap gun you quickly lose in a production shop by having to do a lot more wet sanding/buffing than needed Time=money. But for the hobby guy, it probably don't matter.
quote:
ORIGINAL: ron768
As for paint guns, no need to buy an expensive paint gun. Most shops use HVLP guns and the painters will tell you that an expensive gun cost more to maintain than the cheap ones. When the cheap ones wear out, just throe it away and go buy a new one. Harbor Freight sells good HVLP guns for 50-100 dollars. I got the mid-range one for about 60 dollars and used it til it would not pattern right. I painted a car and a truck and a couple of motorcycles.
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RE: Poor Man's Painting - 5/24/2008 7:22:47 AM
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WLB
Posts: 23
Joined: 2/24/2008
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curse, there is a way to get a paint job for under $200 and usually around $100. The finished product can range from decent to professional depending on how many hours you are willing to spend on the prep work.
I am in the process of painting my 93 Blazer which will be used frequently to go to the farm. this car will get scratched by blackberry vines and other vegetation so a $2000 professional paint job seems silly to me.
I have used this process on 3 cars so far and after 13 years one of them still looks nice with no rust through. (White police Impala on my website)
I sand each rusted area to bare metal if possible and at least get all the loose rust off if not. Also rough up the paint for 3 or 4 inches around the spot. Next spray the area with most any brand of rust reformer. Let dry 24 hours and respray. Let second coat dry 24 hours and then spray with Rustoleum rusty metal primer. Lightly sand and then apply spot putty to any low areas. Level with sandpaper and apply another coat of Rustoleum primer.
Do that to all the rusted areas. Use either spot putty or bondo to level out all minor dings and then sand the whole car. Just take the glaze off the old paint. No need to go to bare metal. I never allow the car to get wet once I start.
Blow the sanding dust off the car, mask off areas you don't want painted, wipe down with mineral spirits, and spray with Rustoleum enamel after the mineral spirits has totally dried. If you get too much mineral spirits on it wipe dry with a clean cloth. Spray a thin coat first and allow it to dry a full 30 minutes and then respray. It may be necessary to spray several thin coats to keep it from running. If you are changing colors and need to spray the door jams, it is helpful if you choose a color that is also available in spray cans. It is much more convenient to spray small areas with a spray can than to have to clean up a spray gun after each little session.
I have used a regular spray gun to do this but prefer the Harbor Freight HVLP gun because it has virtually no over spray. I have too many things to do to spend a week or so sanding out all scratches for a perfect finish so I just mix the paint a little thick and let a slight orange peel hide them all.
The yellow Chevelle roadster on my website (yes it is a true roadster. there is no top, no provision for a top, and no roll up windows), the Suburban, and the white Impala police car have all been painted using this procedure. The Suburban has 5 years on it's paint job and the Chevelle 7.
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RE: Poor Man's Painting - 5/26/2008 9:08:51 PM
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mojoman13
Posts: 221
Joined: 8/21/2006
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ya its sweet that you can do it so cheap
wish my paint was cheap
i spent $500 on my paint :( (thats with a bit left over for touch ups)
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