Hi Lift Jack
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RE: Hi Lift Jack - 5/16/2008 1:15:38 PM
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otnietdehoooo
The Chop Shop Moderator
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
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I think the hitch would do fine. I dont have a hitch on my truck so I'm not entirely sure how they are connected to the frame but this should still apply. When towing, the force down on the hitch is essentially "pulling" the bolts (that connect the hitch to the frame) down. If you're lifting the truck by the hitch, the rearmost part of the hitch that makes contact with the frame will act as a pivot, which will essentially be pulling the bolts down. I think lifitng and towing would have the same effect on the hitch only the different bolts will see more stress. When towing, the rearmost bolt will see more stress than the frontmost. When lifting, it will be just the opposite. Frontmost will see more stress than the rearmost.
Hopefully I explained that well enough for others to understand. Hopefully, my physics classes helped and that explanation is correct.
I drew a picture to help explain it. :)
black = frame
blue = hitch
green = bolts
yellow dot = fulcrum/pivot point
red arrow = direction of force
orange arrow = bolt seeing the most stress
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RE: Hi Lift Jack - 5/16/2008 4:04:09 PM
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WolfPack
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From: Raleigh, NC
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Sounds accurate. I didn't think about still having the downward force while towing..so since it can handle that, it should easily be able to handle the same planar force 
hooray physics!
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2000 Blazer 4d LS 4x4 - 265/70/15 General Grabber AT2s - Hunter Brush Guard - Surco Roof Rack with IPF 868s - 1.5'' Shackle + Tbar - 2'' BL
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RE: Hi Lift Jack - 5/16/2008 5:26:03 PM
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Paddle_grl
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you can use your rear diff casing (mount) to lift her up...don't know how that works with a high jack though...
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RE: Hi Lift Jack - 5/16/2008 6:26:02 PM
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Blazin_Jason
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Paddle_grl
you can use your rear diff casing (mount) to lift her up...don't know how that works with a high jack though...
That would be one lifted truck if you are jacking from there with a jackall.
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85 S10 Blazer 4x4, 2 door, undergoing 350 swap, 3" BL, 33''''s
89 Jimmy 4x4, 2 door, 4.3/auto
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RE: Hi Lift Jack - 5/16/2008 6:29:17 PM
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WolfPack
Posts: 2784
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From: Raleigh, NC
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Haha oh yes. I got the 48'' jack with a bumper lift..pretty much a foot of chain with a coated hook on it. I'm going to play around with it tomorrow finding the best jack points. So far it looks like the hitch and the front tow hooks. I was amazed at how heavy these things are...definitely going to think twice before mounting it on my roof rack!
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2000 Blazer 4d LS 4x4 - 265/70/15 General Grabber AT2s - Hunter Brush Guard - Surco Roof Rack with IPF 868s - 1.5'' Shackle + Tbar - 2'' BL
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RE: Hi Lift Jack - 5/16/2008 7:12:08 PM
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Millertime21
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Do you have any pics of it? Or the web address to pics/info on it? I've been wanting to get one, but haven't really looked into it. Any reason why you choose the one you have?
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RE: Hi Lift Jack - 5/16/2008 7:32:51 PM
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WolfPack
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From: Raleigh, NC
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Yep! I picked the one I've got because of the two models 4 wheel parts sells, 48'' and the 60'', the 60'' was just too big (5 feet tall!) and heavy, and I just didn't need the extra height. Both lift 5000 lbs., tested up to a max of 7000 lbs. I went with the all black one because it has a simple eye hook opening over the red one's pointed clevis hook (used for spreading, which I won't be using this for).
Here's the jack, 4 ft tall, and weighs 30-ish pounds.
The lift mechanism consists of 2 bolts that rotate one-in-one-out to lift under load. The lift platform is a hook, which is fantastic for flat bumpers/rock sliders...not so great for the blazer.
Thus I got a bumper lift piece:
This can wrap around and catch tow points, frame, etc. I'm pickin up an offroad base that gives it about 1 square foot of basing to make it more stable and better in mud/dirt. I'll post some pics tomorrow with the blazer jacked up using the hi-lift.
< Message edited by WolfPack -- 5/16/2008 7:40:48 PM >
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2000 Blazer 4d LS 4x4 - 265/70/15 General Grabber AT2s - Hunter Brush Guard - Surco Roof Rack with IPF 868s - 1.5'' Shackle + Tbar - 2'' BL
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RE: Hi Lift Jack - 5/17/2008 4:34:22 PM
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WolfPack
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From: Raleigh, NC
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After a bit of playing around today, and I'm pretty impressed with the jack. Lifts very easily, it's quick, and suprisingly stable under load. But I did figure out that the bumper lift is completely useless. Even if I had one of the bumpers it suggests using it with, the chain is like 6'' long...useless.
As for the lift points, the hitch works great out back, but the front tow hooks simply can't handle the weight. They started to flex up considerably, so I backed it off. I then tried the brush guard, that was a no go...it just levered against the upper supports under the grille and would have cracked the plastic grill shell if I had kept going.
A length of chain with a hook at the end should be all I need to get to frame at a couple different points near the wheel wells and front end. Also I'm gunna probably get front receiver tubes and shackles from Synergy Offroad to give me a solid lift point up front.
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2000 Blazer 4d LS 4x4 - 265/70/15 General Grabber AT2s - Hunter Brush Guard - Surco Roof Rack with IPF 868s - 1.5'' Shackle + Tbar - 2'' BL
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RE: Hi Lift Jack - 5/18/2008 6:27:42 AM
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willjones
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And all of this with no pics....... I would think that you would know better.
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RE: Hi Lift Jack - 5/18/2008 2:54:09 PM
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WolfPack
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From: Raleigh, NC
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My apologies
Got some pics today..But I also found more problems.
Here's the tow hook flexing (I say flexing, because the hook goes back to normal once the load is removed..POS hooks):
You can see at the base of the hook, it should be touching frame..and its not..and that's barely enough force to stretch the suspension up a little...much less get the tire up 
And I said yesterday the hitch would work fine...well...I didn't actually lift it up..just test fit and put some cranks on the jack with it...today I tried lifting the tires up with the hitch:
For those of you wondering what's wrong here.....well...yea...
So...I figured..well duh, the jack is lifting from the right side of the hitch, no wonder the weight is going left once it's jacked up. So I try from the center of the hitch, with the ball/tounge removed for stability.
As you can see...MUCH more stable...and I got the truck much higher! Still not enough to change a tire . If I cranked the jack one more level up, the blazer simply scooted that much more to the left, keeping the jack at the same angle...wild eh.
And just for kicks, I figured I'd try the bumper lift it piece. See if maybe the chain would take up the off center lean, and I could jack safely...
You can't really tell from the pic, but it did pretty much the same thing as the previous pic.. lean with no lift.
SO: to conclude: I need a way to make the blazer MUCH more stable...I was pretty flat ground, but I just couldn't center the weight up. I need a way to lift just one corner at a time, instead of the rear axle. Stronger hooks up front will work great, and again, that's just lifting one corner.
Anyone have any ideas on how to stabilize while jacking...or have an idea on how to get a chain to a frame point WITHOUT crossing the body?
< Message edited by WolfPack -- 5/18/2008 3:45:40 PM >
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2000 Blazer 4d LS 4x4 - 265/70/15 General Grabber AT2s - Hunter Brush Guard - Surco Roof Rack with IPF 868s - 1.5'' Shackle + Tbar - 2'' BL
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RE: Hi Lift Jack - 5/22/2008 12:53:52 PM
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RCars2
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My suggestion to solve all your worries, rock sliders. You can make some really strong, really simple ones that will look pretty nice if you take your time.
First thing you need is some lengths of 2" square tubing. Cut a piece for each side that will run the length between the back of the front wheel arch and the front of the rear wheel arch.
Next, grab a buddy or some jack stands to hold the bar up to the underside of your trucks body. Measure the distance from the frame to the inside edge of the tubing. Add 2 inches to that measurement and thats how long your supports need to be. (now why did i say 2 inches additional, well because your body bows out and your high-lift does not, this way doing this will give you a mount point out a little bit. Now if 2 inches doesnt work for you and you want it a little cleaner you may be able to step it in some but to a test fit with the jack to make sure it will clear properly)
Cut 10 or 12 pieces to this measurement (depending if you want 5 or 6 supports on each side).
Now is the fun part....welding!! Either find yourself a welder (if you can weld) or a buddy who has one and can weld. What you are going to make is essentially a ladder missing a side. (see crude picture).
Once finished with that, using jack stands and a few buddies line up your creation and start tacking it in place to the frame for fitment. Now when you do this leave about a 1/2" gap under the body. Though the sliders shouldnt flex, this makes sure if they do your body doesnt get damaged.
Once happy with it (again test fit the jack), weld it in solid to the frame. After all that is said and done and the welds are completely cooled do a test lift. Make sure nothing cracks or flexes weird. If all is well then throw some black paint on it and you are done.
This should be strong as all heck and make chaning tires a breeze on the trail. We did a set of these for a tacoma and believe me it made life sooooo much easier.
Edit: To make it look cleaner, you can add pieces of sheet metal to the ends of the tubes to seal them. As an even neater look (and so you dont snag on anything) put a 45 degree mitre cut on the ends of the sliders. Again cap them with sheet metal and that should look nice.
< Message edited by RCars2 -- 5/22/2008 1:04:50 PM >
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RE: Hi Lift Jack - 5/22/2008 4:58:12 PM
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willjones
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From: Wilmington, NC
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WolfPack this is sounding like an idea you should try and then make me some as well.
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RE: Hi Lift Jack - 5/22/2008 7:41:19 PM
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WolfPack
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From: Raleigh, NC
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Without a doubt. I attempted to register on the Synergy Offroad forums to ask about potential cost for knaffle 4-dr rock sliders...there's already a thread on them potentially being carried for Synergy. But as of yet, no admin confirm . I didn't even think of the possibility of making my own!!
Definitely going to look into it. I've got a few buddies who could help me out with welding...also I have to find out if I have access to the NCSU metal shop on campus, or I have to be enrolled in a class...
Will you can get 2-door sliders for a mere $320...I wonder what we can custom make 'em for
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2000 Blazer 4d LS 4x4 - 265/70/15 General Grabber AT2s - Hunter Brush Guard - Surco Roof Rack with IPF 868s - 1.5'' Shackle + Tbar - 2'' BL
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RE: Hi Lift Jack - 5/22/2008 9:41:54 PM
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willjones
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From: Wilmington, NC
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From where!?!?
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RE: Hi Lift Jack - 5/23/2008 12:16:54 AM
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WolfPack
Posts: 2784
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From: Raleigh, NC
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Synergy Offroad carries 'em for a 2-door, with and without a 2'' body lift! HERE. Hopefully they'll pick up the 4-door sliders soon, or I'll figure out this welding thing...either one works for me
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2000 Blazer 4d LS 4x4 - 265/70/15 General Grabber AT2s - Hunter Brush Guard - Surco Roof Rack with IPF 868s - 1.5'' Shackle + Tbar - 2'' BL
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RE: Hi Lift Jack - 5/24/2008 4:29:07 PM
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AJBert
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Check out the measurements for the extended cab trucks. Might be close enough to work with the 4 door blazers.
This is the very reason I haven't gotten a hilift...yet. I'll be ordering some sliders from cknaffle when the funds come available, then the hilift will come next
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