RE: Converting to an electric fan
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RE: Converting to an electric fan - 8/27/2008 9:22:11 PM
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1badblaze
Posts: 15
Joined: 8/24/2008
Status: offline
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but it takes power from the crankshaft via the belt to turn the fan why wouldnt u gain from taking it off
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RE: Converting to an electric fan - 8/27/2008 9:37:40 PM
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WolfPack
Posts: 2783
Joined: 10/30/2007
From: Raleigh, NC
Status: online
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Well 1) the belt is still turning the water pump, so still a load at the pulley, 2) the thermostatic clutch works great...on at idle, cuts off at high speeds (when you need more power) and 3) you don''t gain from taking it off because the engine still has to produce the energy to provide electricity to the fan so the fan can convert the electricity back to rotational (mechanical) force.
Now if you put a giant solar panel on the hood and connected that to an e-fan (all of which have to weigh less than the stock fan/clutch assembly), thennnn you might see a minuscule boost..but you''d be SOL in the mornings trying to cool the engine with a dead fan 
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2000 Blazer 4d LS 4x4 - 265/70/15 General Grabber AT2s - Hunter Brush Guard - Surco Roof Rack with IPF 868s - 1.5'' Shackle + Tbar - 2'' BL
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RE: Converting to an electric fan - 8/27/2008 9:43:29 PM
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1badblaze
Posts: 15
Joined: 8/24/2008
Status: offline
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didnt think about that u just put the load somewhere else, the alternator, besides i hear the roar i know its cooling
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RE: Converting to an electric fan - 8/27/2008 9:57:01 PM
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WolfPack
Posts: 2783
Joined: 10/30/2007
From: Raleigh, NC
Status: online
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Not necessarily  ...I just replaced my fan clutch because I heard the roar all the way up to 3500 rpm...and I couldnt go higher if I wanted too. My fan clutch failed tight I guess...so it spun all the time, and actually interfered with cooling (and power) at highway speeds.
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2000 Blazer 4d LS 4x4 - 265/70/15 General Grabber AT2s - Hunter Brush Guard - Surco Roof Rack with IPF 868s - 1.5'' Shackle + Tbar - 2'' BL
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RE: Converting to an electric fan - 8/28/2008 4:32:57 AM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14299
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
Status: offline
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I have said this before in this thread. Power is not free. Every conversion you go through, power is lost in the process. You may be able to find an e-fan that has a more efficient blade design that can pull more air with less power, but in the end, the difference would be so negligible that you would not be able to repeatedly see any gain.
The benefit of an e-fan is you can turn it off whenever you want and not have any drag on the engine. So say, if you were to be drag racing and you just wanted it to run off while you made your pass, then command it on full afterwords.
The benefit of the thermo-clutch is that it only draws power when it senses higher heat from the radiator. A while back I had posted a video of my stopping the fan on my Bravada while the engine was running. I just stuck my hand into it with a cold engine. Now do not go out and try this, I was only proving a point that the stock clutch fan actually has very little drag on the motor when it is not engaged. It is very reliable and cheap too.
Now, as far as installing e-fans go, when installed in vehicles from the factory, they are tied into the vehicle so that they are commanded on high (in the case of two speed fans) whenever the A/C is on to handle the additional heat. They are also triggered by the temperature of the coolant. Most people just wire them in and have them sit on all the time, but have a switch to kill them when they want. If you feel like baby sitting your truck while you drive it (ie. always have to remember to turn the fans on and off at the appropriate times), then you will have a better experience. However, if you just turn them on and go, then you really are just wasting that air flow. The best way to install these setups is with a controller that ties in to a temperature sensor or probe in the coolant and turns the fans on appropriately. I think there are a few manufacturers that have these controllers and I remember reading of one that even has an input for A/C clutch sensing so it can turn the fans on whenever the A/C is on.
One last thing. I believe this has been mentioned in this thread before as well, but here goes again... The stock fan can pull a LOT of air through the radiator. Most e-fans are limited in the amount of CFM they can flow and the higher CFM rated (+1000CFM) fans are expensive. Also, if you do a lot of highway driving, you will need to modify the fan shroud a bit. As I have witnessed on quite a few e-fan converted vehicles, at highway speeds, the e-fan will actually restrict airflow through the radiator. The modification is simple. Cut bypass sections out of the shrouded area in of the e-fan frame. Back bypass holes with some rubber flaps on the engine side of the fan. When the fan is on and speeds are low, the flaps will be sucked in by the lower pressure area between the fan and the radiator, but at high speeds as pressure builds in this area, the flaps will open, relieving any restriction.
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Kyle-
2004 Rainier
1970 Chevelle - Resto
1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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