Crankshaft failure.. New engine questions.
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Crankshaft failure.. New engine questions. - 9/5/2008 10:59:15 AM
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punxweb
Posts: 47
Joined: 2/23/2008
Status: offline
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While driving home from the airport the other day I heard a strange noice while accelerating. I turned down my radio and tried to pass a vehicle. I heard some pinging and the engine shut down. I had it towed to our friends shop and he said the crankshaft snapped. Any one else had an issue with this? What causes this, bad casting? I have decided to go ahead and put a new engine in the truck. I am going to get a Jasper engine. The cost of the engine installed is $3000. I thought this was a little high and wanted some opinions on this. I know that you are supposed to do an inital oil change after 1000 miles. I typically run synthetic but do not want to waste the money on it for flushing the inital break in oil. Any suggestions on that?
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RE: Crankshaft failure.. New engine questions. - 9/5/2008 12:12:01 PM
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punxweb
Posts: 47
Joined: 2/23/2008
Status: offline
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The Jasper engine was cheaper. Same warranty. The blazer is a 99 with a 4.3L, it had 140,000 when it died.
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RE: Crankshaft failure.. New engine questions. - 9/6/2008 9:28:53 AM
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dtetreau
Posts: 13
Joined: 9/3/2008
Status: offline
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You shouldn''t use synth for break-in use high quality conventional. Synth Oil is bad for break-in!
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RE: Crankshaft failure.. New engine questions. - 9/6/2008 11:41:38 AM
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Duntov
Posts: 194
Joined: 2/29/2008
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A brand new GM 4.3L crate engine costs $2100 + $150 shipping . A rebuilt Jasper engine installed for $3000 is a much better deal . It takes 30 hours shop time to R&R an engine. At $1000, that is $33.33 per hour compared to what most Chevrolet or GM dealerships would charge, which is $80 to $90 per hour shop time. The Jasper engine is the better cholce even if it is a rebuilt engine. I have used a local Racing Engine shop to do the machine work and rebuild my engines since 1970. That is because I can tell them which parts I want to use.
I prefer a used rebuilt .010"-.010" undersize crank rather than a new crank because they were pre-stressed in another engine. The only crank I ever broke was in a new 1965 327 CI factory short-block I was using in a 1956 Chevy B/MP NHRA drag car. After that, I decided that I would never buy a new crate engine or a new crank again.
In 1966, my partner and I were building a Woody Gilmore chassis, SBC Chevy powered Jr. Fuel rear engine dragster and we were going to purchase a new 327 CI cast iron crank and send it to Crankshaft Company and get them to stroke it for a 355 CI engine for the Jr. Fuel class engine. That was a few months before the factory forged 350 CI cranks were available from GM. Crankshaft Company (CSC) told us to send a USED 327 CI crank because even if they inspected a new 327 CI crank, they will not stroke it and guarantee it. The told us that there may be hidden casting flaws that magnafluxing cannot detect. A used crank is pre-tested.
< Message edited by Duntov -- 9/6/2008 11:48:07 AM >
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1991 S10 Blazer 4-dr, auto., 4x4, 4.3L TBI
Competely original. My Blazer even has 1991 air in the spare.
Restored 1963 Pontiac Catalina Sport Coupe, Richmond ST-10 4-speed, 421 H.O., 370 HP tri-power, 3.64:1 Saf-T-Track, HD Police Option
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