What oil/engine tick?
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What oil/engine tick? - 9/8/2008 11:18:08 AM
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jman_08
Posts: 59
Joined: 8/10/2007 Status: offline
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What Oil would you gueys recommend me using in my 2004 Blazer im doing an oil change in an attempt to get rid of the annoying ticking noise the engine has. It makes no difference if its warm or cold and it varies with the rpm level. the speed of the tick that is. Im running 10w-30 right now but i believe i will switch back to 5w-30. Thanks gueys. Jared.
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RE: What oil/engine tick? - 9/8/2008 11:20:39 AM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14314
Joined: 5/1/2005 From: Waterloo, NY Status: online
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Sorry to say, but if you have a tick, usually it will not be cured by changing the oil type. With that said, you probably should be running 5w30 anyway.
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Kyle- 2004 Rainier 1970 Chevelle - Resto 1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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RE: What oil/engine tick? - 9/8/2008 11:31:04 AM
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jman_08
Posts: 59
Joined: 8/10/2007 Status: offline
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Yeah i figure changing the oil is worth a shot i was told it was the injectors but i have a very hard time believe that any ideas its very annoying tick in the engine which gets faster as u accelerate especially heard at idle. But still very audible when under load?
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RE: What oil/engine tick? - 9/8/2008 1:27:51 PM
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Duntov
Posts: 194
Joined: 2/29/2008 Status: offline
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If it is a hydraulic lifter sticking, I suggest use a quart of Schaler Risolone with every oil change and add one quart of Risolone between 4,000 mile oil and filter changes in addition to any regular oil the engine might use. I have used Risolone many times in other engines with excellent results and I use it routinely just a preventative measure. Risolone will usually solve the problem of sticking lifters unless it is a pressed-in rocker stud that has pulled out a bit. By restoring lifter function you will also restore valve action with will noticeably improve engine performance, especailly if it is an exhaust valve lifter that is malfunctioning. The exhaust valve closing point is the most important of all the valve events. False claim laws suits filed against companies that make oil additives such as Slick 50, Prolong, Restore, among others, have been successful but there has not been any false claim law suits against Schaler Risolone. ZMax won a false claim law suit recently but that does not mean I would use the stuff.
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1991 S10 Blazer 4-dr, auto., 4x4, 4.3L TBI Competely original. My Blazer even has 1991 air in the spare. Restored 1963 Pontiac Catalina Sport Coupe, Richmond ST-10 4-speed, 421 H.O., 370 HP tri-power, 3.64:1 Saf-T-Track, HD Police Option
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RE: What oil/engine tick? - 9/8/2008 8:16:18 PM
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jman_08
Posts: 59
Joined: 8/10/2007 Status: offline
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As u said above changing the oil did nothing but i isolated the noise it is coming from the right side of the engine right at the engine block is the loudest would that be a lifter?
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RE: What oil/engine tick? - 9/9/2008 5:03:39 AM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14314
Joined: 5/1/2005 From: Waterloo, NY Status: online
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Not to scare you, but it is possible that a cam lobe has worn down causing the tick. If it is a lifter collapsing, the last thing you would want to do is readjust the valves, especially doing it the conventional way for hydraulic lifters. This could result in a bent push rod. Not to mention bad valvetrain angles which could cause further damage. I do not typically recommend oil additives, but this may be a time to try what Duntov has recommended. If it does not work over the course of an oil change, it probably will not. If that does not work, it may be time to open up the engine and see what is going on.
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Kyle- 2004 Rainier 1970 Chevelle - Resto 1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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RE: What oil/engine tick? - 9/9/2008 5:18:01 AM
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Duntov
Posts: 194
Joined: 2/29/2008 Status: offline
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Merely changing the oil will not usually solve lifter "ticks". Isolating engine "ticks" to one side of the engine confirms that it is rocker arm noise caused by a sticking lifter. Often it is nothing but varnish causing the lifter to malfunction and the use of Schaler Risolone can solve that problem. On the rare occasion that a pressed-in rocker arm stud has pulled and is causing the lifter to have an insufficient amount of preload, and the rocker stud does not have to pull more than a few thousanths of an inch for that to happen, it will be necessary to remove the old rocker arm stud and install an oversize stud. That is why replacement pressed in rocker studs are only available in a oversize. Unlike adding Risolone to your oil to free a sticking lifter, replacing a rocker arm stud requires special tools, and a special procedure that requires about 2 or 3 hours shop time. Therefore, it is not advisable for a part-timer to attempt to replace a rocker arm stud at home. ALWAYS, try the cheapest solution to a problem first. People can are gouged by auto shops when they anticipate the worst. Professional mechanics love it when customers do that.
< Message edited by Duntov -- 9/9/2008 5:32:13 AM >
_____________________________
1991 S10 Blazer 4-dr, auto., 4x4, 4.3L TBI Competely original. My Blazer even has 1991 air in the spare. Restored 1963 Pontiac Catalina Sport Coupe, Richmond ST-10 4-speed, 421 H.O., 370 HP tri-power, 3.64:1 Saf-T-Track, HD Police Option
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