RE: Faulty Rear Hatch
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RE: Faulty Rear Hatch - 7/3/2006 11:19:02 PM
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af32197
Posts: 1
Joined: 7/3/2006
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Need to drill a hole dead center right to left and about 2 inches down from top of hump on plastic trim. Just did it to get my window open. You can't pull trim forward because there is a screw tab on the right side of mechanism. There is a factory access hole down in the carpet but if the plastic piece is broken the factory hole won't do any good. Used 1/2 hole. Can be filled with rubber plug when done. Shine light into the hole and you will see a vertical slit. Use small screwdriver through slit and you can get window to release. Hope this helps.
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RE: Faulty Rear Hatch - 7/4/2006 1:48:37 AM
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Chevy Lover
General Tech Moderator
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From: Vancouver. B.C. Canada
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quote:
ORIGINAL: swartlkk
You will have to break the trim to accomplish this because on all models, there is a screw in the center right at the latch for the window that you cannot remove without the window open. So break the trim or drill it... That is your choice.
I'm afraid he's right, you have to cut or break the trim panel. I can't see any other way.
Thumbnail Image
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RE: Faulty Rear Hatch - 7/6/2006 12:59:56 AM
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Chevy Lover
General Tech Moderator
Posts: 3411
Joined: 6/11/2006
From: Vancouver. B.C. Canada
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I just found this, perhaps it could help a few of you.
Well if you don't want to hack up the tailgate panel or rip out your carpet,
here's the easy way to open the glass:
quote:
96Blazer at S10Forums.com:
You just pull back the interior tailgate panel right above the bump in the middle
where the latch is. There are no screws or bolts in that area, you can safely pull it back
about 2 inches. Then you'll have to stuck your finger in and push down the release bar.
See the 2 pictures below:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/ss_rodriguez/IM000658.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/ss_rodriguez/IM000664.jpg
(No pictures allowed in this forum , oh well, click the links then)
The first pic is of the latch, it's the gold section.
The second pic shows what you need to push downward.
When you get your finger back there, you should be able to feel for the part that need to
be pushed down. When that part is pushed down, the glass has been unlocked.
Now that the glass is unlocked, it and the tailgate can be opened. Now you can remove the
interior tailgate panel, it has one screw on each side and easily lifts off.
The actuator that needs to be replaced costs $58 from the dealer, so if you don't want
to replace it yet, but still want to open the back, you can leave the panel off and just puch the
manuel release level. Here's the pic of the tailgate:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/ss_rodriguez/IM000669.jpg
It's in the open section right below the latch, hows my fingure pushing it:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/ss_rodriguez/IM000668.jpg
< Message edited by Chevy Lover -- 7/6/2006 2:22:22 PM >
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RE: Faulty Rear Hatch - 7/6/2006 2:17:19 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14299
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
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But if you look close in the first pic, you can see where the screw should be. His trim panel is already broken.
You have to either break something or drill something to accomplish this fix.
< Message edited by swartlkk -- 7/6/2006 2:19:46 PM >
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Kyle-
2004 Rainier
1970 Chevelle - Resto
1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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RE: Faulty Rear Hatch - 8/15/2006 8:03:09 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14299
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
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Ok well, I sorta forgot about this until a member PM'd me about this with a request for the pictures. So here's what I have. These pictures are of a glass up, tailgate down configuration that is used on many blazers. They aren't the greatest, but I've added some arrows to show where the different things are:
#1 shows the cutout through the inner sheetmetal structure of the tailgate, showing you the release arm as well as the latch striker.
#2 is a closer shot showing you more of the insides of the tailgate.
#3 shows the relationship between the latch and the cutout.
Hope this helps everyone that has had this problem. Good luck and again, sorry for the delay!
< Message edited by swartlkk -- 8/20/2006 3:14:55 PM >
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Kyle-
2004 Rainier
1970 Chevelle - Resto
1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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RE: Faulty Rear Hatch - 8/15/2006 9:31:02 PM
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flowmasta
Posts: 302
Joined: 7/21/2006
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well i find that yea sometimes i have a problem opening the back window once its popped....but usually if i just yank hard enuf it pops open....for some reason it like sticks to the lining that the glass touches
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Mods: 17' chrome zen rims
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RE: Faulty Rear Hatch - 8/15/2006 10:23:39 PM
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timetoblaze
Posts: 586
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i have the same prob except my actuator doesnt work.... i was wondering if anyone knew where i could get it... i have been lookin for months....its very annoying have to climb in to open my tailgate
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RE: Faulty Rear Hatch - 8/16/2006 7:08:06 AM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14299
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
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quote:
ORIGINAL: flowmasta
well i find that yea sometimes i have a problem opening the back window once its popped....but usually if i just yank hard enuf it pops open....for some reason it like sticks to the lining that the glass touches
I'd recommend grabbing a can of silicone spray and spraying down the seal a few times, allowing it to soak in for a few minutes. It'll soften the seal up close to what it was when new. I do this about every month in the summer on all of the door/window seals in my truck so I do not have problems with sticking doors in the winter time.
One word of caution. If you have leather seats, DO NOT let the silicone drip on them. I have a few very light spots on my seats that I haven't been able to get rid of due to this very thing.
*EDIT* - Didn't see your post time...
quote:
ORIGINAL: timetoblaze
i have the same prob except my actuator doesnt work.... i was wondering if anyone knew where i could get it... i have been lookin for months....its very annoying have to climb in to open my tailgate
First thing I would try is to remove the actuator and disassemble it. If you can take it apart and clean it, it may work, it may not, but you'll atleast have tried a free (or close to it) remedy. If it does work, great. If not, you're no worse off and you have to find either a new one or a good used one.
If you have any junkyards close by, spin in there and see if you can find one. Something like that should only be a few bucks. I know that my local Pick-n-Pull will take defective returns for full refund so you really only waste your time messin' around. I usually carry a small 12v battery with me to test things like this to make sure they work.
If no junkyards are around your area, your other choice is one of these guys parting out their truck or grabbing a new one from the dealership (probably $$$).
Good luck!
< Message edited by swartlkk -- 8/16/2006 7:36:47 AM >
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Kyle-
2004 Rainier
1970 Chevelle - Resto
1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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RE: Faulty Rear Hatch - 8/16/2006 12:50:32 PM
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timetoblaze
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yeah i did pull it out and clean it and stuff like that put it back in and nothin... i havent tried the junk yards they are a drive for me but i should.... thanks for the help
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Asshole Motorsports
Because going fast looks much cooler when your car is on fire...
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RE: Faulty Rear Hatch - 8/16/2006 12:57:41 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14299
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From: Waterloo, NY
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No problem. I figured I'd throw the disassemble/clean/reassemble thing out there cause you never know. Could be a free fix.
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Kyle-
2004 Rainier
1970 Chevelle - Resto
1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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RE: Faulty Rear Hatch - 8/17/2006 10:03:56 PM
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Dabber
Posts: 375
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If you don't hear anything working, check the fuse under the hood. It's a 3amp. Mine kept blowing so I took it back to the dealer for warrenty (2005 Truck) They called GM and they told them just to replece that fuse with a 5 amp. Hasn't blown yet. Warrenties ARE GOOD FOR SOMETHIN!!!!!!
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RE: Faulty Rear Hatch - 8/18/2006 11:41:30 PM
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timetoblaze
Posts: 586
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yeah replaced the fuse 3 dif new ones... still didnt work..
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RE: Faulty Rear Hatch - 4/11/2008 10:24:13 AM
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exarkun1178
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Joined: 4/11/2008
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thankyou guys for this post!
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RE: Faulty Rear Hatch - 4/26/2008 7:27:26 PM
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willjones
Posts: 629
Joined: 10/12/2007
From: Wilmington, NC
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Well well well, posts like this one are the reason I love this site so much. I was ready to kick my back glass out, because all of a sudden my rear button wasn't poping out the window. try after try after try I could hear the actuator moving and still nothing. I came inside did a quick search saw this post 1 hour later I am done fixing the broken actuator arm and the hatch works again. Thanks for that pic, it showed me exactly what to look for.
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RE: Faulty Rear Hatch - 8/12/2008 2:00:56 PM
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dahfrenzy
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Joined: 5/3/2007
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I had this problem last summer and FIXED IT FOR PENNIES!!!
DO NOT BREAK OR DRILL THROUGH THE PLASTIC INTERIOR PANNEL!!!
If you take it to a body shop you will get an estimate for 300 to 500 dollars because they will just break the interior panel off flip the switch open and replace the broken plastic piece which will inevitably break again. Why the piece is plastic to begin with? I have no idea. Major flaw on GM''s part.
Step 1: getting your glass hatch open
Put the back seats down and crawl into your trunk. Bring with you a large allen wrench about the size of your pinky finger. Screw drivers may not work depending on the angle the plastic pos broke at. Use your finger to find a small depression in the carpet covering the inside panel of the tailgate. It is located at the top center of the carpet patch approx. in line with the push button/ keyhole on the outside of the tailgate. Pinch the edge of the carpeting directly above the depression and peel it back about an inch to reveal a hole in the plastic panel. The next part may require patience, for me it took forever getting the correct wrench size. Insert the allen wrench into the hole (short end first) at an angle to get the bottom part of the ''L'' in the wrench around the corner so that the short end is pointed to about 1 or 2 o''clock inside the metal tailgate and the long end is pointing straight out of the plastic. Next turn the wrench counter clockwise. This should trigger the release switch and pop open your hatch.
Step 2: Taking off the plastic panel
Before letting the hatch down remove the screw on the inside of the oval place where the glass hatch attaches to the tailgate. It is the one connecting the plastic to the metal frame. Now let the hatch down. Next carefully remove the screws on either side of the plastic panel connecting it to the tailgate. I believe there is only one on each side. The final screw is on the inside of the handle you pull to release the tailgate itself down. Then simply, but carefully, pull the plastic panel off. This will reveal the green, broken piece of plastic and the release switch it used to connect to.
Step 3: Fixing the Plastic POS
Most likely the plastic piece broke off at its "L" joint, because that is where most of the stress was put. The repair requires a small piece of metal wire, a drill and small bit (size of small wire) solder, and soldering gun. I wouldn''t recommend the lead free solder, it takes ALOT more heat to melt. Before you gather these materials (You may need to borrow them, I already had everything but the wire) get to the third step so you know what measurements you are dealing with. Drill the small hole in the middle of the straight piece of plastic still attached to the motorized puller. Make this the middle length and width wise for maximum strength. Next simply loop the wire through this hole on the release switch where the plastic piece used to be attached. Then solder the two ends of the wire together to complete the circle. Test the apparatus before putting everything back together and you''ve just saved yourself hundreds.
It took me 3 or 4 hours to do this, but I was starting out with absolutely no knowledge on this topic aside from seeing the release hole in the tailgate''s build diagram.
Hope this helps and Good Luck
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. Thank you so much. I will be finishing off the repairs this weekend. You're the bomb!
New poster here........sorry for reviving an old thread. 
RE: Faulty Rear Hatch - 
