HOW-TO: 700R4/4L60/4L60E Tranny Removal
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HOW-TO: 700R4/4L60/4L60E Tranny Removal - 7/23/2006 12:15:41 AM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
Posts: 3476
Joined: 5/11/2005
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This is how you remove any automatic tranny from a S10 truck, particularly the S10-Blazer. The test vehicles are a '87 S10-Blazer with a 2.8L V6 and 700R4 tranny, and a '00 S10-Blazer with a 4L60E tranny.
1) Block the wheels.
2) Disconnect the battery, BOTH cables. While your under the hood, disconnect the tv cable from the trottle linkage. After '93 there is no TV cable. No need to disconnect the cable from the bracket, just disconnect the cable from the trottle linkage.
3) I don't drain the tranny. Creates more of a mess while I still have to work under the truck, and in the fluid.
4) Remove both driveshafts, mark them so you put them back together the same way. I use white out, you know the stuff used to fix typing errors. Don't lose the needle bearings in the caps! Start with the rear driveshaft and do the front last. This will leave you in position for the next few steps.
5) Remove shift linkage on the tranny and t-case. Plus any wiring and vacuum hoses on both the tranny and t-case while your there. You can also remove the drivers side tranny cross brace bolts from the frame. Take note of the 3 prong connector with vacuum lines. It only lines up one way. However it wouldn't hurt to use some of that white out here too. If you have a '95 or newer tranny, do not attempt to disconnect the wiring connectors on the drivers side, instead remove the assemble they connect to. The connectors are held in place with some sort of wax and you WILL break that connector. That connector assemble is about $150. There are two bolts holing it to the tranny, either 10mm or 13mm (I don't remember at the moment). You may need stubbie wrenches to fit between the bolt and bottom side of the body. One bolt is obvious, the other is hidden behind the connector, look for it.
6) Remove your exhaust cross over pipe, at least disconnect it from the exhaust manifolds. Spray the bolt threads with PB Blaster, then hit them with heat from a torch. You want to burn off the rust, and the heat will cause the nuts to swell. Spary them again with PB Blaster, don't worry it wont ignite, but it will get sucked into the threads. It will smoke so make sure the garage door is open. Heat/lubricate as needed. These bolts are notorious for breaking during removeal. No big deal if you break one or all of them. But it sure saves time if you don't have to drill them out and retap them, or drill them out and use longer bolts and nuts. The easiest way to fix the exhaust manifolds is to remove them from the truck. Heat and lubricate is much easier. I use a piece of old mufler to protect any hoses and wires I don't want th torch to heat up. If you don't ahve a hunk, buy some tin about 12" square and bend it to fit.
7) Remove the starter, you did disconnect the battery right??? Starter might not come out until you remove the torque converter cover plate, if yours is removeable. I think in '98 GM went to a one piece removeable tranny to engine adapter, there is no torque converter cover plate, just an access hole to look through. If you have the newer tranny adapter you will have to remove the cover plate the starter goes through, should be 2 10mm bolts. One is a nightmare to get out.
8) Remove the torque converter inspection cover. With the cross over pipe removed the cover plate will come right out. If you left the cross over pipe in place, now you will fight with the torque converter cover. If you have a newer tranny, there is no cover to remove.
9) Unbolt the torque converter from the engine. Should be 3 bolts. Spin the engine one of 2 ways. By the crank bolt in the pulley up front, or with your hands on the flexplate, wear gloves. If you are reusing the old torque converter mark at least one bolt hole on the torque converter and corresponding flexplate hole with the white out. If you have a '98 or newer tranny, you will have to go through the starter hole (you did remove the cover plate like I said to in step 7, right?)
< Message edited by Hanr3 -- 7/23/2006 10:29:04 AM >
_____________________________
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: 700R4/4L60/4L60E Tranny Removal - 7/23/2006 12:17:14 AM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
Posts: 3476
Joined: 5/11/2005
Status: offline
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Now is a good time to replace the engine rear main seal. In fact you have to either remove the engine or tranny to replace the rear main seal. In '86 GM went to the one piece rear main seal and it bolt to the back of the block. You have to remove the flexplate to get at it, but once the tranny is out, it is simple to do.
If your dropping the tranny for any reason other then to rebuild it, replace the front seal. It is located behind the torque converter and eventually will leak. The part is less then $5. You will also have to replace the tranny dipstick tube gasket. Make sure the torque converter is fuly seated intot eh pump rotor before you try and hang the tranny. Once the torque converter is fully seated it will be inside of the tranny bellhousing completely. Once you get the tranny hung on the engine the torque converter should be at least 1/4" to 3/8" of an inch away from the flexplate. This is normal, anything diferent and something isn't right. Never pull hte tranny to the engine with the tranny bolts. NEVER!!!!!
If your truck is a 4x4, there is no paper gasket for sale that goes between the t-case and tranny adapter, make one out of gasket maker, Black RTV by Permatex works well. I also recommend removing the adapter from the tranny. Install it on the t-case, and slide that back onto the tranny. This way you only have to be carefull of the rubber o-ring on the adpater and not worry about screwing up the RTV while your bench pressing the t-case back into place.
If this is a 2wdr truck, replace the rear tranny seal while the driveshaft is out. Again, less then $5 and no better tim ethen the present.
On the front and rear tranny gaskets smear tranny fluid in the rubber parts. If you don't you will fry the seal the instant the engine starts or the instant you put it into drive. You will also need to coat the engine rear main seal with oil for the same reasons.
< Message edited by m00nwater -- 8/22/2006 7:33:28 PM >
_____________________________
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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