Wheel studs

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Wheel studs

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Blazer >> Mechanical & Maintenance >> Steering, Suspension & Drivetrain >> Wheel studs

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Wheel studs - 12/15/2006 11:10:43 AM

tom1337

Posts: 80
Joined: 3/5/2006
Status: offline

Has anyone had this happen: I have 33X12.5 on my full size and have never had any problems but the other day comming home I was having loud popping noises intermittently. I thought u-joints, I put the blazer in the air, needed a rear brake job anyway.

But here is the strange thing: 4 of my 6 wheel studs on my right front were snaped right off the other two I could turn by hand. I checked every other wheel and everything was fine.

Anybody have any clues?

Thanks
Tom

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Post #: 1

RE: Wheel studs - 12/15/2006 11:15:25 AM

MNHawk

Posts: 451
Joined: 10/20/2006
Status: offline

is there any damage to the rim?
You talking the lug nuts or the wheel studs from the hub?

If you could post a pic of the issue it would help in figuring out what might had happened.

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74 W200 4x4 360/727/NP205 D44/D60
1981 C-20 Suburban Full Size 4x4 350 4sp manual (newest toy)
91 Honda Accord (daily Driver)
1979 Ford LGT 125
2005 JD L130
95 Blazer 4 door 4x4 4.3 lt vin W(parked selling or parting out)
93 S10 Blazer 4dr 4.

(in reply to tom1337)

Post #: 2

RE: Wheel studs - 12/15/2006 1:24:23 PM

tom1337

Posts: 80
Joined: 3/5/2006
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I do not see any damage to the rim, I have included pics of it above as well as pics of the wheel studs.

*EDIT by swartlkk* - fixed your image tags. Caps can't be used in tags.

< Message edited by swartlkk -- 12/15/2006 2:32:21 PM >

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Post #: 3

RE: Wheel studs - 12/15/2006 2:33:38 PM

swartlkk

Posts: 14472
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
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Yikes! That doesn't look good...

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2004 Rainier
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Post #: 4

RE: Wheel studs - 12/15/2006 4:09:22 PM

20Blazer00

Posts: 862
Joined: 9/16/2005
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That wheel is definately damaged the mounting holes have some small noticable to me at least oblongation to some of the holes...I would recomend you not use that rim except as an emergency spare.

By the looks of the rust near the breaks it looks like it might have been that way and finally sucommed to fatigue, they are easy to replace but i would replace all six to be sure that the other two don't fail on you and they are cheap parts compared to accident repairs....

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Mark

2000 Blazer LS 4dr 4.3L Auto
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Post #: 5

RE: Wheel studs - 12/15/2006 5:34:17 PM

kornphlake

Posts: 90
Joined: 4/6/2006
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I'll second 20blazer00's opinion, it looks like a cyclic fatigue failure on at least one of the studs. Pound out the old ones and put in new ones, they aren't terribly expensive. While you're at it I'd inspect the studs on the other 3 wheels.

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RE: Wheel studs - 12/15/2006 5:52:57 PM

4lowlife

Posts: 1562
Joined: 12/29/2005
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I would ditch the rim.

If it is ever used and you are involved in an accident, you may be cited for it. (Upon police inspection.)
Torque the lug nuts next time.

(in reply to kornphlake)

Post #: 7

RE: Wheel studs - 12/15/2006 9:01:50 PM

Hanr3

Wheels & Tire Moderator
Posts: 3479
Joined: 5/11/2005
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You sir, are one lucky man.
Stop what ever your doing and go buy a lotto ticket.

I hgihly recommend you replace all your studs as soon as you can afford it.

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Post #: 8

RE: Wheel studs - 12/16/2006 1:04:28 AM

MNHawk

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Joined: 10/20/2006
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Looks like someone either loosened them or they were not torqued to (tire size 110 ft lbs)

And how long has that thing been sitting? Look at all that build up on the rotor. Is this your weekend toy?

With as rusted as those studs look, they were due to be replaced (@ $2.34 for Grade 8's its worth it)

And that RIM is way over due. I would use that rim for a spare on my trailer. There is no way I would run a RIM like that for a daily driver, maybe for an off road junker.

Don't get me wrong, I understand that not many of us can go out and spend the

for nice RIMS and all. But safety first. A good set of second hand RIMS even from a newer truck run about $20 to $50 per RIM from your local bone yard.

< Message edited by MNHawk -- 12/16/2006 1:05:35 AM >

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74 W200 4x4 360/727/NP205 D44/D60
1981 C-20 Suburban Full Size 4x4 350 4sp manual (newest toy)
91 Honda Accord (daily Driver)
1979 Ford LGT 125
2005 JD L130
95 Blazer 4 door 4x4 4.3 lt vin W(parked selling or parting out)
93 S10 Blazer 4dr 4.

(in reply to Hanr3)

Post #: 9

RE: Wheel studs - 12/16/2006 1:44:32 AM

tom1337

Posts: 80
Joined: 3/5/2006
Status: offline

Had to go shopping, I'm back.
I had the same thought as MNHawk that they were loosened.None of the others are. It goes on the road 2 to 3 times a week. The ball joints, arms,axle u-joints and rotors were all replaced about 100 miles ago before that it had been sitting for a year on the previous owners lawn The driving was a mix of highway and back roads.

I am not sure about the rims, I am going to mic. them to get a better idea of their condition. .

Cyclic fatigue failure is a very good possibility since it had been off the road for a year before I got it, and the studs were pressed out of the old rotors and pressed in the new ones, this could be the cause.

I have never encountered such a thing before seemed really strange.
Looks like a trip to the parts store for rims and some new studs are on the way.

4lowlife:
As for torquing the lug nuts and police inspection. I think I would know if they are torqued properly and what is legal and not legal since I have been a New York State motor vehicle inspector for 17 years. It is not the job of law enforcement officers to inspect vehicles or to guess which part might be fatigued and ready to fail. Nor is it my job as an inspector to x-ray parts for fatigue or guess what, when and where a part may fail.

(in reply to Hanr3)

Post #: 10

RE: Wheel studs - 12/16/2006 2:08:27 AM

MNHawk

Posts: 451
Joined: 10/20/2006
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I would also give those rotors some attention, If not with an angle grinder with a Roloc disk, then atleast with a scotchbright pad. That can really do a number on the break pads and can cause break failure.

Most Auto Part Stores will not carry the Grade 8 studs. I normally get them from my local Trailer supply store.

Visual on that one Rim alone tells me to replace. I would not even try to MIC them. Look at the holes, they are over bore.

I would tape off the break area of the rotor and blast that rust off. Hit it with some etching primer and a good coat of Hi Temp paint. Will extend the life of those rotors more then you think.

_____________________________

74 W200 4x4 360/727/NP205 D44/D60
1981 C-20 Suburban Full Size 4x4 350 4sp manual (newest toy)
91 Honda Accord (daily Driver)
1979 Ford LGT 125
2005 JD L130
95 Blazer 4 door 4x4 4.3 lt vin W(parked selling or parting out)
93 S10 Blazer 4dr 4.

(in reply to tom1337)

Post #: 11

RE: Wheel studs - 12/16/2006 2:17:30 PM

tom1337

Posts: 80
Joined: 3/5/2006
Status: offline

Thanks for the great info. I'm off to TSC for studs. I am going to scrounge the local yard for some new rims. We get abnormal amounts of corrosion where I live so the tips on the rotor are greatly appreciated (they are expensive to replace

(in reply to MNHawk)

Post #: 12

RE: Wheel studs - 4/2/2007 1:22:06 PM

tom1337

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Joined: 3/5/2006
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Just a follow up: I had a friend who works at a NDT lab, take a good look at the at the broken studs. The X-Ray showed that in the studs that were still intact there was crystallization (it bugs me he had a name for it that I forgot.) the others that broke had the same thing but were also being attacked from the outside by rust. Any way a no win situation.

I'll probably take some criticism for this but I used my air chisel and they came right out. I bought Dorman studs which are all grade 8 and installed them using liquid soap a few washers an a nut to draw them in.

(in reply to tom1337)

Post #: 13