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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement

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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 1/1/2007 10:36:19 PM   
mellon101

 

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You can look up a local distributor on thier website

http://www.timken.com/timken_ols/bearings/distribution/distribute.asp


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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 1/2/2007 1:33:38 AM   
DINO55

 

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Great How to Hanr3.
Timken's are the best, We will only use Timken bearing's on our locomotives at work.  

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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 1/2/2007 1:56:01 PM   
Hanr3


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Thanks.
Yea, I am a diehard Timken user as well. Sure they cost more, however they last longer and offer a smoother operation the most others. 

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"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
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'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My

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Post #: 23
RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 1/5/2007 7:25:43 PM   
frankjc

 

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That's a nice write up. Good to mention the anti-sieze. Makes things easier next time.

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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 2/3/2007 11:02:40 PM   
cemeteryman

 

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Hi Tim - thanks for the pics! What were the clues that something was going wrong with the hub? I have 85K on my '99 Blazer and just wondering. Also what is your mileage?   

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Post #: 25
RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 2/3/2007 11:19:04 PM   
Hanr3


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Teh signs of a failing hub assemble, bearings are.
Un even tire wear.
Drifting.
Pulls to one side.
Grinding noise in turns at first, eventually all the time.
Some or all of them may happen.
To check the bearings.
Jack the tire off the ground. Grab it in the 3-9 o'clock positions and rock it back and forth.
Do the same with the 12-6 o'clock positions, and rock it up and down. You will feel the tire move. Up and down movement is almost always the bearings. Have someone look at the tie rods ends, idler arms, and ball joints while you rock it to rule them out.

Most alignemnet shops will do free front end inspections. Also if the beaings are shot, it wont easliy align. The machine will keep blouncing around and a decent tech will know there is a problem.  

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"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan

'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My

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Post #: 26
RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 9/21/2007 8:07:02 PM   
filtalr


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Great how-to - verrrrry nice. Getting ready to do it to my new ride - 2000 LT 4x4. Just wondering what y'all think of the Autozone Dynapak bearing assemblies. The $90 difference per pair over the Timkens is tempting to my budget and they have the same 12mo warranty.

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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 9/22/2007 9:14:08 AM   
Hanr3


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Don't know about hte Dynapacks yet. I just put one in my Mother-In-Laws car. We'll see how it holds up. Then again she hardly drives anywhere so it might out live her.

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"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan

'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My

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Post #: 28
RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 9/25/2007 8:21:43 AM   
Psychropod


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quote:

ORIGINAL: sintrigue

Can't tell you how helpful this was. Got the job done in under three hours and I'm not a mechanic in no way. I'm a computer programmer... don't know a thing in the world about vehicles. The post was great.

Thanks.


Hey - I'm a computer programmer too, and I've found that if you apply the same troubleshooting skills that you use in your job, you can be very successful at figuring out problems with your vehicle too.  Welcome to the Forum!

Raphael


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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 9/25/2007 7:36:53 PM   
samurai_24


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I make the 3rd computer programmer to complete this task due to this tutorial.  Thank you!  I did encounter a few hassles along the way, but nothing major.

1. The middle bracket that holds the ABS sensor wire was a pain.  The nut was frozen on the bolt and the whole thing just spun free.  Hit it with some WD-40 to help it along.  Trying to get a small wrench behind the control arm so I could hold the bolt while ratcheting the nut off without seeing it gave me some grief, but I got it out with a little persistance.

2. Getting the new hub assembly seated back on the axle was the toughest part.  First, I wiped the splines clean, then applied anti-sieze.  The whole assembly would go no farther than 1/4 of an inch.  I ended up putting the axle washer and nut on by hand, then had to slowly tighten the nut with the 36mm socket to get it seated.  That took the longest.  After that it really is as easy as putting bolts into holes and tightening them.

The symptoms I experienced to figure out it was the wheel bearing was the constant "hum-hum-hum" and grinding sound, as well as my ABS kicking in a little at the end of stops.  Thanks to this forum, I was able to test it by jacking the front up and doing the 12-6 push-pull test.  The whole thing was loose with lots of play.  I'm glad the wheel didn't just pop off while my wife was driving around with my daughter in the back.

After getting it all together, I did the test again.  There's a small amount of play at 3 and 9, is that normal?  Anyway, I test drove it and it was nice and smooth, no sounds, and the ABS didn't kick in again. 

PS. I used the Timken from Autozone. ($185) and sorry about the long post!

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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 9/25/2007 8:28:59 PM   
Hanr3


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It was a good post full of usefull information that other computer nerds might need to know about. 

Glad I was able to help you all out. Also glad you all understood it enough that you felt comfortable to tackle this one on your own.

Yes a slight wobble in the 3-9 test is normal. It's mostly due to slop/play in the steering linkage. If it gets too excessive you need someone to look at each ball joint, each tierod, and the pitman/idler arms holding the steering linkage in place. Clues that it is getting too lose ywould be drifting around on the highway, constantly turning the wheel from side to side to keep going in a straight line, popping noise in turns. If you expierience any of those, get it checked out.


_____________________________

"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan

'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My

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Post #: 31
RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 9/27/2007 12:55:53 PM   
filtalr


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Well I went out to start the replacement and found that the hub turns while trying to get the 36mm nut off. How do you keep it from turning? I read somewhere that you can put it in 4x4 - tried that and it still turns... Could I put the wheel back on and let it rest slightly to keep it from turning while I bust the BMF 36mm nut loose or would that be inadvisable?

EDIT - OK - I figured it out - I had to keep the motor running, put it in 4x4, then in park and then bust the 36mm BMF nut loose - then shut the engine off. You may want to add that important tidbit of info to the how-to for 4x4 newbies like me


< Message edited by filtalr -- 9/27/2007 2:05:59 PM >

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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 9/27/2007 3:24:00 PM   
swartlkk


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You could do this numerous different ways.  #1 on my list would be a pry bar through the lugs with the lug nuts installed.  Just use a flat pry bar and maybe rotate the steering so you can better hold both.

*EDIT* - Ok so...  #1 really is use an air impact on it, but not everyone has a compressor in their garage...


< Message edited by swartlkk -- 9/27/2007 4:50:55 PM >


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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 9/28/2007 5:18:35 AM   
Hanr3


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Yes you could leave teh truck on the ground and take that nut off, then jack it up.

One of those things you forget when you have air tools.


Putting it in 4x4 is also a good idea. I won't have thought of that.  

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"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan

'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My

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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 9/28/2007 12:58:56 PM   
samurai_24


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I had my wife hold the brakes down while I loosened it, since I had it in the air already.

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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 11/5/2007 8:59:34 AM   
ChevyDave


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Thanks for the great 'How To' Hanr3. I am about to embark on this job with my 2000 LT 4x4. I just turned 49,000 and noticed the front end getting noisey. Brakes didn't quiet it down, so I figure the bearings must be getting ready to go. Thanks to your article I have ref pics I can look at. Very nice!
I found a place in NY (MAC Auto Parts) that sells the bearings for $89 ea with a 'lifetime warranty'. Wonder how they would work out? Anyone hear of or have dealings with this company?
Here's a link:
http://www.macautoparts.net/ProductInfo.aspx?id=1758968

Thanks again
ChevyDave
RI
2000 Blazer LT 4X4

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Post #: 36
RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 11/5/2007 10:19:03 AM   
filtalr


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I've never seen a hub assembly with a lifetime warranty. It says "asian manufacturer" -- hmmm good luck with that. You may have isssues trying to redeem that warranty. I went with the Timken bearings from Autozone. They're twice the price but I figure the quality is worth it in the long run as I plan on keeping my Blazer quite a while...


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Post #: 37
Puller for hub assembly? - 1/27/2008 1:36:59 PM   
TripleBlackBlazer


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I'm doing a lot better than I thought I would with this job, PB Blaster and a breaker bar have been my best friends.  I'm at the point where both assemblies are unbolted and loose, just not coming off the spline.  I've soaked the crap out of the CV axle where it meets the hub on the outside, squirted some behind the hub, too.  Any tricks on how to get the hub assembly off the spline?  I've been gently prying off the steering knuckle but don't want to cause any damage to the knuckle itself.

Just keep soaking and prying?

EDIT: Ah, I see in the 'Related Threads' that a puller may be necessary.  Didn't see that in Hanr3's How-To.  Could I have caused any damage trying to pull on the CV axle?

2nd EDIT: What size puller should I get?  Is it a universal thing or do I need a specific size?

3rd EDIT: Well the passenger's side came out easily.  It's the driver's side that's giving me grief.  Guess that was the worse of the two, eh?

< Message edited by TripleBlackBlazer -- 1/27/2008 2:21:21 PM >


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RE: Puller for hub assembly? - 1/27/2008 3:20:45 PM   
lennyblazer


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I used the 5/10 ton 3-jaw puller tool from autozone (what ever the largest one is, the other smaller 2-ton one or whatever doesnt have enough strength). Just keep at it and eventually it will come, this is the part of the job that is time consuming, since it is sort of a time thing, rather than actual force on it (since you don't want to break anything).

I have to replace the hub bearing on the drivers side now since i screwed it up and sort of pulled it apart when I was taking stuff apart for the ball joints, so eventually i will get to fixing it.


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RE: Puller for hub assembly? - 1/27/2008 4:25:41 PM   
TripleBlackBlazer


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Well the hours listed for my local Advance says 8 on Sunday, but looks like they clsoe at 7.  Gonna huff it tomorrow to be there by 7:30AM and get what I need (the Wife's Grand Am sprung another leak in a return line again on the way to the Auto Show, don't want to put another $200 in it if I don't have to).  Thanks for the info Lenny!

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