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RE: Puller for hub assembly?

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RE: Puller for hub assembly? - 1/27/2008 9:29:42 PM   
lennyblazer


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No Problem. Good luck and hope you get it fixed soon. I know when I did the balljoints on my truck, we went at a leisurely pace and the blazer was out of commision for 4 days, since timings of when things broke and when the store was open, plus it was cold outside at the time.

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RE: Puller for hub assembly? - 1/28/2008 11:35:12 AM   
TripleBlackBlazer


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quote:

ORIGINAL: swartlkk
While you're at it, it probably would be a good time to do a brake job. With a worn wheel hub, your rotor may be oddly worn due to the angle at which it was sitting. The caliper is held on the steering knuckle, while the worn hub was allowing the wheel/rotor to lean in at the top. A decent (don't go cheap) set of rotors and brake pads would be a good idea. Like I said though, DO NOT go with the cheapest stuff. The quality sucks!


That quote is from this post that came up under a search for 'hub assembly'.  I got the gear puller and it came out quite easily.  Buttoned everything back up, did everything recommended in this How-To.  Sprayed rotors and pads down with brake parts cleaner.  Put some grease on the O-ring.  Put anti-sieze on the bearing bolts, the lugs themselves, and the CV axle spline.  Buttoned everything up and went for a test drive.  VOILA!  The whub-whub-whub sound is gone...for the most part.  The old ones were starting to make noise even going straight, and were noticably louder in turns no matter the speed, but loudest and the highway speeds.  The new ones don't make any noise at all straight, no noises at highway speed turns (around bends) but when I went to slow down to 15mph to turn onto a side road I could hear the all familiar sound. 

Here's where the quote comes in.  Since it only happened under braking at low speeds (no sound at highway speed braking), is it as simple as replacing rotors and pads?  Would the rear bearings have anything to do with it?

EDIT: Added pics of the old bearings.



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Attachment (2)

< Message edited by TripleBlackBlazer -- 1/28/2008 1:04:20 PM >


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RE: Puller for hub assembly? - 2/19/2008 10:02:27 AM   
reptilechazer

 

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ok so i wish I had came to this section BEFORE yesterday. The noises started early yesterday and i knew what they meant, but I finished my errands first, then took it to my brother-in-law's to have him give a 2nd opnion on the driver side. he shook it and said yep. We looked at it in the Hayne's manual, and since it mentioned requiring pullers, which he didn't have, we decided to get it to Les Schwab real quick. it broke on the way and I 3 wheeled into their parking lot. it's going to be $401 after tax for JUST the driver side, and now I see I could have done both sides with high quality parts, and it would have only taken a few hours. I am confused as to this thread I can't figure out, is an actualy puller required, or is there "other" ways to DIY with prybars and such? now I need to figure out if the passenger side needs to be done soon or if it will be ok for my cross state 3 day weekend dirve this weekend... 99blazer 4x4x4 ls. 82xxx miles.

< Message edited by reptilechazer -- 2/19/2008 10:07:34 AM >

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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 3/15/2008 11:04:20 AM   
ncpreacherboy1

 

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are there torque specs for the 3 bolts that hold the hub/bearing asm on and the nut that holds on the cv shaft?

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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 3/15/2008 12:22:41 PM   
Yooper


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I wish I would have come across this post three days ago.  I just got my ride out of the shop for this very thing.  I could have saved some money.  Oh well, I did save time just dropping it at the shop.  I was busy this week.

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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 3/15/2008 12:53:20 PM   
TripleBlackBlazer


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quote:

ORIGINAL: ncpreacherboy1
are there torque specs for the 3 bolts that hold the hub/bearing asm on and the nut that holds on the cv shaft?


Not sure of the three bolts that hold the assembly on but the CV axle nut is 103 ft/lbs.  Chevy Lover had torque specs posted for nearly everything imaginable a little while ago, you could always run a search or PM if you can't find what you're looking for.


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Post #: 46
RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 3/15/2008 6:18:14 PM   
swartlkk


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Hub/Bearing Assembly to Steering Knuckle Bolts - 77 ftlbs (105Nm)
Wheel Hub Bolts - 103 ftlbs (140Nm)


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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 4/27/2008 10:40:20 PM   
JoePete

 

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Found the Timken's on rockauto.com for 103.79 but i don't see a sensor do you think it still comes with the abs sensor? Same part number. Great post going to do this next check.

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Post #: 48
RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 4/28/2008 9:23:15 AM   
GTIGLI

 

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Any difference on 2WD models vs the 4WD that's illustrated?

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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 4/28/2008 10:07:31 AM   
swartlkk


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Probably internal differences in the bearing load capacity as well as the absence of the spline internal to the hub bore that is required for the 4wd front CV shafts.

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Post #: 50
RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 5/3/2008 3:25:16 PM   
GTIGLI

 

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The instructions worked great.  I was able to change it out no sweat.  I loosened the three bolts on the back of the hub and it popped right out, no extra effort needed...gotta love 2WD.

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Post #: 51
RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 5/6/2008 11:10:23 PM   
kross

 

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Okay, make me the 4th computer programmer to complete this task.

Things went very smooth.  I used a puller, which I picked up at the auto parts store while I was getting the other supplies for this project, since it was only $19 for a 6" 3-jaw puller.  I had no problems getting the old hub off at all, the puller helped quite a bit.  There was one slight hiccup with the rubber O-ring.  I put the O-ring into the slot in the steering knuckle, and held it in place with Vaseline.  I put the new hub on, and using the 3 bolts to pull the hub back into the steering knuckle.  It wasn't until it was almost all the way on, that I noticed the O-ring had started pushing out the back!  So I had to take it back off, but this time I put the O-ring on the new hub instead.  This seemed to do the trick.

One thing about the anti-seize.  I've read in a couple places to never put anti-seize on the wheel lug bolt threads, and to avoid it in general on bolts that are to be tightened to a specific torque, as well as avoiding any oil or grease on the threads, too.  So I only put the anti-seize on the axle splines.  I didn't have a problem getting any of the bolts off, which have been there since the truck was new in 2000.

Anyway, thanks!
-- Kevin


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Post #: 52
RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 6/26/2008 1:06:59 PM   
scotty7


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Another Computer Geek Here... This was the best post i''ve seen yet :-) The only problem I had was getting the hub assembly off. Tried to do it by hand, then I went to walmart and picked up one of those $30 electric impact guns that plugs into the cigarette lighter.  When i bought it i said to myself "there is no way this will be powerful enough"   Well sure enought it worked great! a little slow, but it worked.  The thing basically spins really really fast, then kicks the socket every few seconds.. very cool

Thanks for posting this howto!

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RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 6/26/2008 3:34:09 PM   
90v10blazer

 

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Hi i have a 90 fullsized chevy blazer with manual locking hubs. i recently replaced the rear axle and want to put a new front axle in as well but the axle i want to put in has auto locking hubs. i want to put the manual locking hubs on the new axle can you tell me how to do this. Thank you

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Post #: 54
RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 9/16/2008 5:35:47 AM   
mdkuni

 

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Hanr3 a big thank you for this thread! You saved me a lot of time and money!

< Message edited by mdkuni -- 9/16/2008 5:36:16 AM >


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Post #: 55
RE: Hub Assemble Replacement - 9/16/2008 6:46:08 AM   
ChevyDave


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Well I finally got the new bearings installed on my 2000 LT 4x4.  Picked them up at Sadler Power Train on E-Bay for $57 ea ($129 pr. shipped) with the ABS sensor (Federal Mogul).   It was nice getting rid of that annoying whine I endured for month''s before I finally replaced them.  This thread was invaluable in helping to make this the easy job it turned out to be.  Saved me a bunch of cash as well.  Much appreciation to all who contributed, especially Hanr3.  I''m certain many others will benefit from this in the future as well, good job and thanks again.

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