RE: Intake manifold gaskets
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/23/2006 5:41:08 PM
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swdockter
Posts: 51
Joined: 3/26/2006
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quote:
ORIGINAL: swartlkk
swdockter, you really can't pin it down to a leaky intake manifold gasket right off the bat. I would suggest you do a coolant flush and refill, changing out the t-stat and the radiator cap (both very cheap items). You should also check the weep hole on the bottom of the water pump for signs of seal leakage. If there is dampness on the crank pulley or lower, then you are probably looking at replacing the waterpump not too far down the road.
As for your temperature hunting around like that, you may have air in your system. If you do, it needs to be removed and fast. Dexcool is a great coolant, but it doesn't coat the internal passages like the ethylene glycol (green stuff) does. As a result, air that may become trapped in the system is allowed to oxidize the metal it is in contact with, creating the sludge that has given Dexcool its bad rep. I have found that the new Prestone All Makes, All Models extended life antifreeze ('big yellow') to be excellent and with the same extended life properties of Dexcool, without the down side of air issues, it is a no-brainer.
Well, I completely flushed the system and replaced the thermostat and radiator cap. I ended up using Prestone and their 10 minute flush as well. There was a load of debris in the radiator & resivor. I ended up flushing three times. Radiator cap is original with 144K  while the thermostat looked almost new.
I now get gurgling in the heater core. I assume I have air and it should take some time to remedy itself. I'll keep an eye on the level and keep it full.
As far as any wetness anywhere...I only seen a small amount in the valley just under the intake. Not a lot but it sure doesn't give me any warm and fuzzies. I recently degreased the engine bay so everything is pretty clean and the tiny little puddle was pretty visible. I sprayed carb cleaner on the area and I'm going to keep an eye on it and see if it reappears.
Thanks for all the help, this site is becoming one of my favorites.
< Message edited by swdockter -- 12/23/2006 5:52:02 PM >
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/24/2006 9:33:25 AM
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swdockter
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oh, that sucks. So what brand of gasket is that, stock? What is the best brand of intake gasket? I only want to do this one time.
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/24/2006 9:57:06 AM
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Rammer
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I don't know if these are the factory gaskets or not as I bought this used 2 months ago. They look just like the Victor ones I put on. I replaced these at 107,000 miles.
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1997 Olds Bravada
2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 CrewCab Z71
2003 Toyota Matrix XR AWD
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/24/2006 12:59:06 PM
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Chevy Lover
General Tech Moderator
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This could be a good excuse to buy some tools  .
^^^^^^
You need an excuse to buy tools? You must be married.
One of the best modern day tools is a digital camera. A white paint pen is also a good idea. Just mark the position of the distributor etc.. and take a picture before you remove things. You can also use labelled bags for things like coil mounting bolts, distributor hold down, mainifold bolts etc... if you take your time and labell everything, it makes life easier.
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/24/2006 2:51:54 PM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
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Correct, on the older engines GM did use a rubber gasket in the front and back seal. However they were known to leak. A nice bead of RTV is the preferred method.
Check those torque numbers, I could swear mine where in foot pounds. Also realize that one of the rear lower intake bolts has a higher torque then the rest.
As for best gasket. I prefer Felpro...
Here is a pic of my lower intake mainfold gasket. Notice the RTV on both the front and rear sealing surface. You need to put RTV around the water passages , and under the tab on the end of the gasket (where it meets the front and rear seal). Do that and you will have a good seal. One other thing, GM blocks off the rear water passage either on the intake. Some gaskets come with it blocked off and some dont. This one isn't. REgardless you need to put RTV around it as well.
Here is a closer pic of the area thats most important. See the RTV around the water passage, under the tab, and along the front seal?
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/24/2006 3:01:23 PM
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Chevy Lover
General Tech Moderator
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Lower Intake Manifold Bolt
First Pass in Sequence
3 N·m
27 lb in
Second Pass in Sequence
12 N·m
106 lb in
Final Pass in Sequence
15 N·m
11 lb ft
Upper Intake Manifold Stud
First Pass
5 N·m
44 lb in
Final Pass
9 N·m
80 lb in
< Message edited by Chevy Lover -- 12/24/2006 3:02:48 PM >
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/25/2006 1:04:13 PM
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Rammer
Posts: 51
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The Victor gasket set I got from NAPA included a packet of the gray RTV sealant. I didn't get the whole set, just the lower intake ones for around $16. I removed the whole intake as an assembly as there is no need to take everything apart to replace just the lower gaskets.
The only torque wrech I used was an inch pound one. I also found that to get the lower power steering pump bracket bolts out ( to move the pump and bracket forward for clearance) was to take the lower section of the air box out. I could then get those bolts out from the top alot easier than from below. I also cut the heads off a few bolts that I had that treaded in where the manifold bolts go to use as guides for putting the manifold back on.
The fuel pressure and return lines at the back of the manifold are, or at least on mine, 5/8" , not metric. My flare nut wrench was too long and hitting the firewall, so I used a 5/8" stubby wrench for those.
< Message edited by Rammer -- 12/25/2006 1:11:01 PM >
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2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 CrewCab Z71
2003 Toyota Matrix XR AWD
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/25/2006 6:51:28 PM
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frankjc
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I thought you had to take the manifold apart. In this article, it looks like there are bolts inside that have to come out. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=486234
Coincidentally, my brother just picked up a truck cheap that needs intake gaskets.
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/25/2006 8:43:52 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14472
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From: Waterloo, NY
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Your '99 isn't the same. That is a CPI motor.
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/25/2006 10:19:30 PM
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frankjc
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Ok thanks. What does CPI mean? I have seen the mentioned here a few times.
The other style must be similar to my 4.3 Monte Carlo, right?
< Message edited by frankjc -- 12/25/2006 10:22:21 PM >
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/26/2006 1:00:13 AM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14472
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CPI == Central Port Injection
Your motor is an SCFI (Sequential Central Fuel Injection).
Rammer, that picture is of a v8 is it not... The v6 has the injector pack rotated 90* clockwise as compared with that picture. But yeah, the bolt locations still apply and it is that easy.
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/26/2006 7:32:53 AM
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Rammer
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Yes it is swartlkk. I didn't notice that. I double checked and the sequence is the same. AllData must use the same pic for the 4.3 and the V8's.
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1997 Olds Bravada
2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 CrewCab Z71
2003 Toyota Matrix XR AWD
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/26/2006 10:49:03 AM
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frankjc
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So, just to clarify, my manifold is NOT like the one in those pics? I checked the profile (of the one from automotiveforums.com), and it seems that that one might be a 1995.
I didn't know that there were different ones.
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/26/2006 7:37:13 PM
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Rammer
Posts: 51
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YES, Those pics are NOT your style of manifold. If your still unsure, go buy the lower gaskets and you'll only find 4 holes in each gasket for the intake manifold bolts to go through.
< Message edited by Rammer -- 12/26/2006 7:41:27 PM >
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1997 Olds Bravada
2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 CrewCab Z71
2003 Toyota Matrix XR AWD
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/27/2006 2:10:36 AM
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DINO55
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Hey Frankjc
This is a pretty simple job, Time consuming, yes, but no real skill is involved. I just replaced them on my 98 Blazer two weeks ago. I followed these instructions below, with a few tricks I learned along the way. Mark every wire you remove. Place all bolts from each item that you remove in a ziplock bag, mark the bag with a marker where it belongs and put the wrench size on it. When you are ready to drop the manifold back down on the car, put (6)six Bic pen's the manifold block holes, 4 in the front and 2 on the rear drivers side. Have a friend help you line up the pens to the maching holes on the bottom of each side of the manifold and slowly lower the manifold straight down. Pull out one pen and thread in a bolt by hand. Torque your bolts down, put your truck back together, change the oil and enjoy. While I was doing mine I replaced the water pump, thermostat, All radiator, heater, and bypass hose's (Cheap Insurance)
GOOD LUCK.....
Takes a second for the pic's to load here...
http://d-tips.com/general/articles/Content/Article13.aspx
< Message edited by DINO55 -- 12/27/2006 2:13:36 AM >
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