Intake manifold gaskets
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Intake manifold gaskets - 12/21/2006 8:51:01 PM
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frankjc
Posts: 99
Joined: 3/25/2006
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Looks like I have an intake manifold gasket leaking coolant externally. Anyone have a guess what the labor cost on this would be? I know it would vary, but about how many hours flat rate?
I don't know if I trust myself doing it. Besides, it's December, and I can't count on having decent weather, or leave the car disabled long enough to get it done.
Thanks.
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/21/2006 9:03:07 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14472
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
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My references state 3.4hrs standard book time with 0.2hrs if you have A/C, but that is for my '00 which should apply for any SCFI motor '96 to current. Not knowing what you have...
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Kyle-
2004 Rainier
1970 Chevelle - Resto
1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/21/2006 9:20:54 PM
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frankjc
Posts: 99
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Sorry, mine is a 1999, with a/c. 3.6 hours doesn't sound too bad. That probably translates to 10 hours for me in the driveway. Too much for me. Besides, I don't have some of the tools that I would need, torque wrenches, patience, etc.
Thanks for the info.
< Message edited by frankjc -- 12/21/2006 9:26:14 PM >
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/21/2006 9:42:25 PM
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nofear17bmx
Posts: 614
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See I have grown to feel confident that I can do all my own work. The only thing that keeps me from doing it is having the right tools, I have run into too many situations where I cannot get a bolt out which keeps me from completing the job. So it really comes down to the garage you got I think.
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2000 Chevy Blazer 4wd 4dr 4.3L Auto
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/21/2006 10:47:04 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14472
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
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You guys don't know how many times I have run to any hardware store just to buy something that I didn't have. Trust me, every backyard mechanic goes through that and to be honest with you, it never really stops. You can learn to get creative with the tools you have and keep trudging through, but nothing beats having the proper tool for the job!
Come spring, I'll be doing my intake manifold gaskets as well. I already have the gasket kit and should have done it when I had everything tore apart flushing out the coolant, but didn't... Now I smell coolant ever so slightly, but it doesn't leak air back into the system as it cools. It seems only to leak when its hot and running, and only very slightly as it never ends up on the ground. I just monitor it and always check for air in my cooling system, making sure to keep the overflow tank full is essential!
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Kyle-
2004 Rainier
1970 Chevelle - Resto
1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/22/2006 7:54:43 AM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14472
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
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Yeah, mine is leaking on the front driver's side of the manifold. It is always wet looking in that area so I figure that's where my coolant smell is coming from. My coolant tank level barely moves over the course of a month, hence why I'm not too concerned. If it were just to end up empty one day. Well, I'd be tearing it down in a hurry.
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Kyle-
2004 Rainier
1970 Chevelle - Resto
1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/22/2006 10:21:20 AM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14472
Joined: 5/1/2005
From: Waterloo, NY
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swdockter, you really can't pin it down to a leaky intake manifold gasket right off the bat. I would suggest you do a coolant flush and refill, changing out the t-stat and the radiator cap (both very cheap items). You should also check the weep hole on the bottom of the water pump for signs of seal leakage. If there is dampness on the crank pulley or lower, then you are probably looking at replacing the waterpump not too far down the road.
As for your temperature hunting around like that, you may have air in your system. If you do, it needs to be removed and fast. Dexcool is a great coolant, but it doesn't coat the internal passages like the ethylene glycol (green stuff) does. As a result, air that may become trapped in the system is allowed to oxidize the metal it is in contact with, creating the sludge that has given Dexcool its bad rep. I have found that the new Prestone All Makes, All Models extended life antifreeze ('big yellow') to be excellent and with the same extended life properties of Dexcool, without the down side of air issues, it is a no-brainer.
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Kyle-
2004 Rainier
1970 Chevelle - Resto
1974 K5 Blazer - Resto
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/22/2006 4:23:43 PM
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swdockter
Posts: 51
Joined: 3/26/2006
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thanks for the info. i'll check this out.
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/22/2006 5:35:53 PM
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frankjc
Posts: 99
Joined: 3/25/2006
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A garage quoted me $560 for the job. That seems high. Like maybe $133 an hour high (assuming it was 3.6 hours, and $80 for parts). I work at a Toyota dealer, we get $80 an hour.
I want someone who has done this before to do the job. Any Chevy techs in Mass looking for a side job?
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/22/2006 5:40:55 PM
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4lowlife
Posts: 1562
Joined: 12/29/2005
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I changed the upper intake on my '01 Impala last Feb or March. (122,xxx miles.) I went ahead and replaced the lower intake gaskets too. It's easy to do. I had a Haynes manual and I labeled everying thing w/ tape. I went ahead and drained the power steering res and replaced the water pump t stat, and upper and lower rad hose.
Some of those items were working properly. I did a little more for PM reasons.
You may need a inch lb. torque wrench, adn agle meter/gauge. They are cheap. I needed them for a few bolts on the motor. Get some coolant and be ready for an oil change afterwards.
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/22/2006 6:47:58 PM
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MNHawk
Posts: 451
Joined: 10/20/2006
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Seeing as the Intake is 1/2 the labor in doing head gaskets, I have opted to do my heads at the same time as the Intake gasket. No sense in skipping it.
Kind of like 4lowlife, doing a list of things even if they work right just so not have to do it all over again later.
EXP in doing this type of thing in the past on different motors has shown to be a wise choice. Then again I might just opt for a full rebuild even though the motor has under 150k on it. The price difference for myself is not that much different due to I can do 90% of it myself over paying a shop.
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74 W200 4x4 360/727/NP205 D44/D60
1981 C-20 Suburban Full Size 4x4 350 4sp manual (newest toy)
91 Honda Accord (daily Driver)
1979 Ford LGT 125
2005 JD L130
95 Blazer 4 door 4x4 4.3 lt vin W(parked selling or parting out)
93 S10 Blazer 4dr 4.
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/23/2006 1:12:12 AM
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Chevy Lover
General Tech Moderator
Posts: 3411
Joined: 6/11/2006
From: Vancouver. B.C. Canada
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$560 sounds a little high to me. I would think $400 parts and labour (oil change included).
Maybe check around a bit...I could be wrong
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/23/2006 8:35:31 AM
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frankjc
Posts: 99
Joined: 3/25/2006
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Yeah, I think it's high too. I am definately shopping around. I don't really have the confidence to do it myself or I would.
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/23/2006 10:02:58 AM
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zero psi
Site Moderator
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From: maynard, MA
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I've been chasing coolant leaks in my '95 for 6 months now! It all started with the water pump. Fixed that, then a freeze plug rotted out. Fixed that then the intake gaskest started seeping, but not so bad it needed to be fixed yet...until another freeze plug rotted and i fixed that. Then the intakes really started to leak bad. Took care of that then yet another freeze plug let go. I replaced that and another because it was easy to get at. It's been 2 weeks now with a perfectly dry motor, so i hope everything is ok now.
Anyways, if you do decide to do them yourself, take your time, make sure everything's clean when it goes back together, and it really saves time to label things like ignition wires and distributor rotor location. good luck, and hopefully you don't end up like me and spring another leak after it's all done.
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/23/2006 11:40:13 AM
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MNHawk
Posts: 451
Joined: 10/20/2006
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quote:
ORIGINAL: zero psi
I've been chasing coolant leaks in my '95 for 6 months now! It all started with the water pump. Fixed that, then a freeze plug rotted out. Fixed that then the intake gaskest started seeping, but not so bad it needed to be fixed yet...until another freeze plug rotted and i fixed that. Then the intakes really started to leak bad. Took care of that then yet another freeze plug let go. I replaced that and another because it was easy to get at. It's been 2 weeks now with a perfectly dry motor, so i hope everything is ok now.
Anyways, if you do decide to do them yourself, take your time, make sure everything's clean when it goes back together, and it really saves time to label things like ignition wires and distributor rotor location. good luck, and hopefully you don't end up like me and spring another leak after it's all done.
With seeing this it helps me lean more towards rebuilding my motor over just replacing one or two gaskets. Guess time to pull up my list of parts and start ordering. :)
_____________________________
74 W200 4x4 360/727/NP205 D44/D60
1981 C-20 Suburban Full Size 4x4 350 4sp manual (newest toy)
91 Honda Accord (daily Driver)
1979 Ford LGT 125
2005 JD L130
95 Blazer 4 door 4x4 4.3 lt vin W(parked selling or parting out)
93 S10 Blazer 4dr 4.
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/23/2006 12:44:11 PM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
Posts: 3479
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Replacing the intake maniofld gaskets isnt that difficult of a job and doesnt require too many tools. For $400 I could buy every hand tool I ever needed to fix my truck for the rest of my life. Gasket kit is cheap, and so is the RTV. You could do the job for less then $50 plus the cost of tools.
The only way to gain confidence is to do it. I like to read as much as possible about a project before I start on it. I want a clear mental picture befroe I start. I know there will be questions that come up as I go along, and we cna help you with those.
Cliton/Haynes manuals are worth ther price. They do a great job covering the basic steps involved in almost every repair your likely to do on your truck. Yep, including replacing the intake manifold gaskets. They also have pictures. Even the gasket set comes with directions.
As for the hard parts on teh intake manifold gaskets.
Teh distriburator has to come out. No big deal if you mark the replationship of the distriburator to the engine, and then mark the rotor relationship to the distriburator. I prefer to use white out (old typeing correction fluid). But any high visibility marking paint will work. When you pput the distriburator back in simple line up the marks. If you didn't turn the crank while the distriburator was out everything will work as it did before oyu took it apart. Teh gasket kit comes with a new distriburator gasket. Teh gears on teh bottom of the distriburator are curved, so the distriburator will rotat as you pull it out, and it will rotate as you put it back in. If after you put it back in and the lines dont match simple pull it out and turn it one more tooth and try again, repeat until your lines match.
The hardest bolt to get out is the distrbiurator hold down bolt and GM makes a special tool for it, I believe Sears sells it.Your local autoparts store might carry it as well. Ask for a GM distriburator wrench and the guys can point it out ot you.
The fuel lines ahve to come off, use flare wrenches. Find the size by using a regular wrench and hten buy the flare wrench. The fittings on fuel, oil, tranny, brake lines are soft metal and you want to use flare wrenches otherwise you will round the metal and be screwed. When ever I have to buy a new tool, I always buy the set. In this case you will use the flare wrenches on all sorts of stuff on your truck, spend the extra money and get the set.
You can mark the wiring if you want, little tags with the name of what it attaches too. All modern GM wiring harnesses only fit on one device one way. In ohter words, each harness is specific to that device and you cannot screw up which way it goes on. It only goes on one way. For me the hardest part was remembering how the wiring was routed. Take pictures. Digital cameras are excellent as documenting how thing came apart. Then you can refference those pis to see how things go back togehter. Once your done, use the pics and post them to a website for future refference, and to show others. Like these from my '93. Its a CPI engine, but you get the idea.
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"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/23/2006 1:30:47 PM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
Posts: 3479
Joined: 5/11/2005
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Just noticed there is a Do-It-Yourself article on how to change the gaskets. Check it out.
http://www.blazerforum.com/m_47773/tm.htm
_____________________________
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
-President Ronald Reagan
'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: Intake manifold gaskets - 12/23/2006 2:31:51 PM
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joey
Posts: 33
Joined: 11/4/2006
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I’m in the same boat; I have to change out my intakes too. Picked up a set from Carquest at $94.83 which I know sounds pricy but it’s a Victor Reinz set which is supposed to be the best in the business. Supposedly resolves the leaky issues that plague the GM 4.3, 5.0, and 5.7s. Just did my dads 5.7 in a 98 3/4 ton truck and let me tell you what a PITA! Luckily I’m small so was able to crawl on top of the engine to reach the distributor bolts. I was looking at my Blazer and its goanna be a much easier job! Doesn’t sit up so high and doesn’t sit so far back! Anyways like everyone else says you really don’t need special tools to fix it. You can practically take the whole thing apart armed with only a 10 and 13mm deep well socket! Plus your essentials- screwdrivers pliers etc etc. Good Luck!
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