Common Problems Thread
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Common Problems Thread - 9/18/2005 1:16:34 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14499
Joined: 5/1/2005 From: Waterloo, NY Status: offline
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I would like to see a sticky thread in the General Tech Help section that would have some cataloged common problems for the various different versions of the blazer that most of our members currently have. This can include personal experiences along with documented problems from say Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs). Things that would need to be included in any post in this thread would be the year, engine, trans, 4wd/2wd/awd, along with any other identifying information about the vehicle. Also, any symptoms that were noted before the repair (be specific). And then obviously what was found to be causing the issue. Example: 1. One common problem that affects many years of Blazers/Jimmys/Bravadas is the upper and lower ball joint failures in the 4wd/awd models (I can't comment on the ball joints on the 2wd models). Symptoms include a clunking sound while driving over bumps. To replace the ball joints on 4wd/awd vehicles: 1. Lift and properly support the vehicle 2. Remove the wheel on the side to be repaired 3. Remove the caliper and support it properly as to not kink or stress the brake line in any way 4. Remove the caliper mounting bracket & rotor and set them safely out of the way 5. Remove the axle nut (34mm IIRC) 6. Pop loose the upper and lower ball joints by removing the cotter pins and the castle nuts 7. Completely detach the upper control arm from the steering knuckle 8. Press the drive shaft out of the wheel bearing (can be accomplished with a punch and hammer if you are careful) 9. Move the steering knuckle out of the way (suspend it by the steering tie rod) 10. Use a 3.175 mm (1/8 inch) drill to cut a 6.35 mm (1/4 inch) deep hole in the center of each rivet 11. Use a 1/2" bit to remove the rivet head 12. Clean all surfaces where the new ball joints are going to mount to 13. Install new ball joints, tightening the new bolts (that replace the rivets) to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.) Other torque specs are as follows: o Tighten the lower ball joint stud nut to 79 ft. lbs. o Tighten the upper ball joint stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. o Tighten the nut in order to align the cotter pin. Do not tighten the nut more than 1/6 turn. o Tighten the axle nut to 103 ft.lb o Tighten the Caliper Bracket to Knuckle Mounting Bolt (Dual Piston Front Caliper) to 133 ft. lbs. o Tighten the Caliper Guide Pin Mounting Bolt (Dual Piston Front Caliper) to 85 ft. lbs. 2. Another common problem is a sound very similar to that of a bad ball joint, but the sound comes from the rear corners of the hood. There is a TSB 01-08-63-OO1A (technical service bulletin) about this and the fix is to install a spring washer on the hinge bolts for the hood pivots. The spring washers are GM P/N: 12383460. The proceedure is as follows: [code]Hood Hinge - Rattle File In Section: 08 Body and Accessories Bulletin No.: 01-08-63-OO1A Date: August, 2001 Subject: Hood Hinge Rattle (Install Spring Washer) Models: 1995-2002 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Pickup and Utility Models (Plant Codes 8 and K) 1996-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada This bulletin is being revised to add the 2002 model year, plant codes, and update labor time information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-08-63-001 (Section 08 - Body and Accessories). Condition: Some customers may comment on a rattle coming from either or both front corners of the instrument panel near the hood hinge areas. This noise may often be mistaken for a loose shock absorber. The rattle may be heard when driving over rough roads and is most noticeable when the road surface creates a side-to-side vehicle motion. Cause: Excessive clearance at the hood hinge attaching bolt may cause this condition. The excessive clearance allows the hood hinge to make metal contact with the hood hinge bracket, which produces
< Message edited by swartlkk -- 9/18/2005 1:24:52 PM >
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Kyle- 04 Rainier My Restoration Projects Please Do Not PM for Tech Help
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RE: Common Problems Thread - 9/20/2005 9:22:43 AM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14499
Joined: 5/1/2005 From: Waterloo, NY Status: offline
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No one has anything to add to this? Is this a good idea or one destine to fall by the wayside?
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Kyle- 04 Rainier My Restoration Projects Please Do Not PM for Tech Help
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RE: Common Problems Thread - 9/20/2005 11:32:46 PM
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m00nwater
Posts: 3269
Joined: 3/10/2005 From: Redbridge, but I now live in the 'shwa Status: offline
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I like the idea...
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RE: Common Problems Thread - 9/23/2005 9:22:40 PM
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Talusgirl
Posts: 334
Joined: 9/18/2005 Status: offline
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I think it's an excellent idea. I've been reading through old posts before I post a new question and just trying to learn stuff. Your idea would get rid of a lot of junk and would save a lot of hassles. Do you want to undertake a lot of it though? Just wondering, because it seems like you and a couple of others are definately the detail guys. My opinion? Definately would make this a more 'navigateable' site.
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RE: Common Problems Thread - 9/25/2005 8:44:29 AM
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LoLoS10Blazer87
Posts: 503
Joined: 3/24/2005 From: Dunn, NC (East Coast representin') Status: offline
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I think it's a great idea. Each of the boards on the CelicaSupra.com forum has a sticky at the top of commonly asked questions and whatnot, kinda eliminates people asking the same thing over and over. I don't know much compared to some of you, but I'd be glad to help out in any way with it.
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1997 GMC Sierra Z71 Vortec 350 Spark It or Park It In Loving Memory of Matt Jones 12/30/85 - 11/06/05
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RE: Common Problems Thread - 1/4/2006 1:35:00 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14499
Joined: 5/1/2005 From: Waterloo, NY Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: jaybone420 hi newbie to this group .....i just bought a 86 305 k 10 blazer it was running ruff so i changed the spark plugs and now i have a prob with it starting after driving it for any amount of time.. her is a example i went out to pick up a friend at work went home and shut of my truck i went to restart it and it wouldnt start till i let it sit for almost an hour . dose anyone have any idear why this is happining or mabey a remadey for this since it is my only transportation. This is not the proper forum to ask this question in. Please post this topic into the 'General Tech Help' section if you have not already done so.
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Kyle- 04 Rainier My Restoration Projects Please Do Not PM for Tech Help
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RE: Common Problems Thread - 1/20/2006 6:08:39 PM
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Canadian88
Posts: 489
Joined: 11/23/2005 From: Detroit Status: offline
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I think this would be a sweet idea. We could even have a whole new forum for it, like 'general tech help' or 'off topic'. A person could submit a write up about an installation, fix, etc, to a moderator or somebody, and the moderator could post it if they like it, or not post it. Then people could ask questions in that thread if the need be. Just a thought.
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2003 4.3L 2WD Blazer 2DR K&N air filter Alpine S-type speakers in all 4 corners Damplifier behind all speakers and in cargo area Alpine CDA-9856 (iPod interface) Alpine 10" type S Sub with 400W Alpine MRP-M450 amp www.secondskinaudio.com
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RE: Common Problems Thread - 1/20/2006 11:38:56 PM
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joeuser742
Posts: 3
Joined: 1/20/2006 Status: offline
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I have a 98 s-10 Blazer 4WD with 107,000 miles and have quickly learned about some common problems. Upper and lower ball joints - as swartlkk describes. Inner and outer tie rod ends. Pitman and Idler arms. Upper and lower control arm bushings - If hear a loud clunk in the front, this is another possible cause. I heard a very loud clunk when I turned the wheel, mainly in reverse. My bushings were very dry rotted. Oil lines - Not sure the exact name, but they are the lines that relocate the oil filter. Rear main seal - If you do it yourself...Exhaust (minus the headers), both drive shafts, the bolted on crossmember, transfer case (I drained it first, but don't think you have to), transmission (I drained mine first), the hoses, wires and lines that goto the transfer case and transmission all have to come off, and drop the oil pan. I hope I didn't forget anything. Now the seal can be removed and replaced. Removal of the neutral safety switch plug (on the transmission) is very difficult because I heard something about the glue heating up and getting inside the plug. Windshield wiper pulse board - My windshield wipers would only work when they felt like it. The pulse board (located on the wiper motor under the hood) went bad, you can just change that part instead of the whole wiper motor. What I did was inspect the board itself and found that 1 trace on the board was fried, I just soldered a piece of wire on and it works much better, but not perfect. Dimmer/Multifunction Switch - Turn signal switch. I kept hearing a ticking coming from the glovebox area. I'm wondering if this is what caused the pulse board to blow out. There is a recall on this for the 2000-2002 vehicles (don't know why the 98 and 99 aren't covered under this).
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RE: Common Problems Thread - 1/21/2006 12:12:27 AM
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Canadian88
Posts: 489
Joined: 11/23/2005 From: Detroit Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: joeuser742 Dimmer/Multifunction Switch - Turn signal switch. I kept hearing a ticking coming from the glovebox area. I'm wondering if this is what caused the pulse board to blow out. There is a recall on this for the 2000-2002 vehicles (don't know why the 98 and 99 aren't covered under this). I am quite sure that that is just a relay or a time delay clicking on and off. If it is a real problem, then i've got it too in my 03...
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2003 4.3L 2WD Blazer 2DR K&N air filter Alpine S-type speakers in all 4 corners Damplifier behind all speakers and in cargo area Alpine CDA-9856 (iPod interface) Alpine 10" type S Sub with 400W Alpine MRP-M450 amp www.secondskinaudio.com
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RE: Common Problems Thread - 1/21/2006 12:21:46 AM
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joeuser742
Posts: 3
Joined: 1/20/2006 Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Canadian88 quote:
ORIGINAL: joeuser742 Dimmer/Multifunction Switch - Turn signal switch. I kept hearing a ticking coming from the glovebox area. I'm wondering if this is what caused the pulse board to blow out. There is a recall on this for the 2000-2002 vehicles (don't know why the 98 and 99 aren't covered under this). I am quite sure that that is just a relay or a time delay clicking on and off. If it is a real problem, then i've got it too in my 03... I have seen this on other forums and it is most likely a problem with grease with some metal shavings getting on to the electronic board inside the multifunction switch and shorting something out. Some people have seen a puff of smoke coming from the steering column. There is a smaller number of people that have fixed the problem by changing out the flasher relay.
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RE: Common Problems Thread - 1/21/2006 12:27:14 AM
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joeuser742
Posts: 3
Joined: 1/20/2006 Status: offline
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I probably should have added that the ticking would occur at anytime, but when I hit the brakes, most of the time it would stop. (I know that when you put the turn signal on, it makes that ticking noise by the glovebox, but this is when the turn signal is not on).
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RE: Common Problems Thread - 1/21/2006 11:30:59 AM
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Canadian88
Posts: 489
Joined: 11/23/2005 From: Detroit Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: joeuser742 I probably should have added that the ticking would occur at anytime, but when I hit the brakes, most of the time it would stop. (I know that when you put the turn signal on, it makes that ticking noise by the glovebox, but this is when the turn signal is not on). Oh, i thought it was just when the turn signal was on. Never mind then.
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2003 4.3L 2WD Blazer 2DR K&N air filter Alpine S-type speakers in all 4 corners Damplifier behind all speakers and in cargo area Alpine CDA-9856 (iPod interface) Alpine 10" type S Sub with 400W Alpine MRP-M450 amp www.secondskinaudio.com
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RE: Common Problems Thread - 1/21/2006 2:15:07 PM
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swartlkk
Posts: 14499
Joined: 5/1/2005 From: Waterloo, NY Status: offline
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I'm going to try to get this thing up and running sometime in the near future here. We have the ability to create FAQs to be added to the FAQ section (linked to on the top banner menu). But we also may add a new locked forum for user submitted How-To's as well.
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Kyle- 04 Rainier My Restoration Projects Please Do Not PM for Tech Help
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