FluX on: Ball Joints.

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FluX on: Ball Joints.

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Blazer >> Mechanical & Maintenance >> Steering, Suspension & Drivetrain >> FluX on: Ball Joints.

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FluX on: Ball Joints. - 7/2/2007 12:10:15 PM

DCFluX

Posts: 68
Joined: 9/25/2006
Status: offline

I recently had the opprotunity to change my Ball Joints as my 1999 Blazer ZR2 just hit 80,000 miles. Some of you have a garage, some of you have the tools, some may have both, some may have neither. You must determine what your time is worth, the cost of parts and tools vs. having a shop do it in the $700 - $1500 range. I have the 4WD model so your installation may differ on a 2WD vehicle.

You probably wouldn't be reading this if you have not determined that your ball joints are bad so lets get into it.

Parts you will need are the ball joints. This is an area where you do get what you pay for. There is no perfect joint that lasts forever, but everyone agrees that the best that is on the market right now is the Moog 'problem solver' series. The replacment joints will come with the required mounting hardware.

Upper Ball Joint: K5320
Lower Ball Joint: K5335

You will need 2 each. Expect to pay about $260 for the complete front end set of 4. I recommend you replace all 4 joints now to avoid problems and extra labor in the future. If you replace just the lowers, the uppers are not far behind.

On to the tools stage. You will need:

1/2" drive 36mm deep well 'Axle Hub Socket', some people suggest 35mm works better. $30
Titanium el-cheapo drill bit set with 1/8", 1/4" and 1/2" - $10
21/64" carbide high speed metal drill bit. - $10
Drill - $20
3 claw pully remover - $25
18" Long 1/2" drive breaker bar, longer the better - $25
1/2" drive torque wrench - $75
Chisel and Punch set - $25
Mini Sledge hammer (BFH) - $10 - $20
'Pickle Fork' - $15
Strong penetrating oil or PB-blaster - $10
SUV size jack stands and hydralic jack - $75
Standard size hydralic jack - $25
Star lug nut wrench - $10
White or yellow wax pencil - $1
An assortment of box wrenches and sockets and other hand tools. Notable sizes are 7/16", 1/2", 18mm, 3/4" and 7/8"

Put 4WD into 4LO. Place the parking brake on and chalk the rear wheels. Center the steering wheel and with wax pencil trace the front wheels onto the concrete. Break the nuts on the wheel. Elevate the wheel and and remove it. Soak all the nuts with penetrating oil, wait a half hour and hit 'em again.

Remove the brake caliper. This will require an 18mm box wrench on the upper bolt, tap with sledge hammer on side of wrench if nessacary to free the bolt. You can use the breaker bar on the lower bolt.

Use a milk crate or other soild object to support the brake caliper out of the way. Remove the brake disc, you may have to use fine needle nose pliars or heavy wire cutters to remove the retaining ring from the wheel studs before the disc will come off.

Place a jack under the lower support arm and jack it up until the control arm comes up about 1/2". This is to take the presure of the torsion bar when the steering knucle is removed.

Disengage the CV joint from the wheel hub. Using the 36mm nut and breaker bar on the axle hub nut. You may have to stand on the bar to get enough torque. The engine will have to be running as well or the hub will not lock and the wheel will just spin. The opposite side tire must also be on the ground.

Remove ABS sensor from wheel hub using metric allen wrench (sorry didn't get the size) and remove retaining clip from upper ball joint using 10mm box wrench. Tuck sensor up and out of the way.

Place the 3 jaw pully remover on the hub with the center into the CV joint and crank away. With the CV joint in free run remove the three 18mm bolts securing the hub to the steering knucle (it's the big metal frame that the hub is attached to.) You may have to use the box wrench and sledge depending on the size of your socket. Remove the hub and optional splash plate and set them asi

< Message edited by DCFluX -- 7/2/2007 12:33:47 PM >