Fuel Pump?
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Fuel Pump? - 11/25/2005 11:09:08 PM
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klandon
Posts: 5
Joined: 11/14/2005
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oka here is the story i have a 1996 blazer 4dr with 160000 miles on it. The other day i went to start it and it wouldnt start. i checked the normal stuff dead battery and such and everything seemed to be fine. Then i check the fuel pressure and i had nothing. So i went and changed the fuel filter first and now what i get is wierd. If i try to start the blazer i still get no fuel pressure. So i let it sit for 24 hours and started working on it again. The first thing i notice is when i reinstalled the fuel pressure tester i got a huge squirt of gas but yet no pressure after that. so i waited another 24 and started the work again and once again when installing the fule pressure tester i get that one squirt then nothing. Was wondering is this a sign of a fuel pump gone wrong or is it blockage in the line. I hope some of you have some ideas and where can i get a fuel pump cheap.
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RE: Fuel Pump? - 11/26/2005 9:34:21 AM
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RedBlaze
Posts: 181
Joined: 7/29/2005
From: Atlantic, NC (eastside whats crack-a-lackin!)
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Sounds like a fuel pump to me. Try turning your key forward but not starting it. If you listen closely outside of the truck you should be able to hear a whining noise. That whining noise is the fuel pump kicking in. Or you could also try using some starter fluid. Give it a little spray to see if the motor will turn over. If it turns over and then stalls odds are it is your fuel pump. You might wanna get a few more peoples opinions doing anything like changing it out though.
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RE: Fuel Pump? - 11/26/2005 12:33:26 PM
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klandon
Posts: 5
Joined: 11/14/2005
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Okay i tried that and didnt hear anything also tried pulling the line off the incoming side of the filter and tried it again and nothing came out. So i am assuming it is a fuel pump issue so does any one know where i can get one cheap. and how often does the fuel pump go out mine is the original and it has 160000 miles on it.
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RE: Fuel Pump? - 11/26/2005 12:56:51 PM
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RedBlaze
Posts: 181
Joined: 7/29/2005
From: Atlantic, NC (eastside whats crack-a-lackin!)
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You got a lot of miles on that factory pump. GM fuel pumps are notorious for going out. I had a s-10 and I probably had to put 2 or 3 fuel pumps by the time mine hit around 160,000. As for getting one cheap I dont really know about that. I would try www.gmpartsdirect.com or just check an auto zone or something.
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RE: Fuel Pump? - 11/26/2005 12:58:56 PM
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RedBlaze
Posts: 181
Joined: 7/29/2005
From: Atlantic, NC (eastside whats crack-a-lackin!)
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oh yeah you might want to check the wiring goin to the fuel pump. sometimes the ground wires can get messed up. I dont know if you have to drop the tank to do that or not. I think you might have to.
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RE: Fuel Pump? - 11/26/2005 1:02:46 PM
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Bojib
Posts: 78
Joined: 11/21/2005
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The fuel pump went out on mine just recently, for the second time. The first time, it just quit running all together, would not do anything. The second time it went out on a very busy road, near the lunch time rush. I got it to a place where I could work on it some. The fuel pump would kick on when I turned the key on, and was rather loud actually. It would supply pressure still, but only about 24psi. Just wasn't enough for the truck to run on. Luckily the first one I bought had a limitied lifetime warranty, and was free to replace the second time.
Mine was around $350 to buy, but yours may not be that much on a 96. I sure hope not, I know I hated spending that just for a little electric motor that pumps fuel. Thought it has to be a dandy of a motor to supply 60psi. I think the first one I got was bad from the beginning, it always made a fairly loud noise when running, and the one I just replaced it with is the same brand and is whisper quiet.
Both times I did the job myself, it was a little time consuming but wasn't that hard to do. While I was at it I checked what I could of the electrical system, made sure all the plugs looked good and such. I actually replaced the plug to my fuel pump both times, it is apparently a weak link in the system. A warning came with both my new pumps that stated that the plugs can become loose and cause some electrical arhing, which in turn is what burns the pumps up, and has a picture of what to look for. When I changed the original pump, it did show signs of the arching, some heat distorted plastic around the plug and such, the second time I changed it though the plug area was fine so it was probably just a bad pump all around.
I'm pretty sure none of that rambling helped, but it's something to read I suppose.
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RE: Fuel Pump? - 11/26/2005 1:22:12 PM
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blazin97
Posts: 1590
Joined: 11/16/2004
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yes check your wiring and fuses first. it is going to cost around $300, they arent cheap. but def. check your ground, my brother just bought one for his 97 s10 2.2($375) and replaced it, then found out it was just a bad ground. so check that first.
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Chris
97 Blazer 2DR/2WD-down for some upgrades
97 Blazer 2DR/4WD/4.3/5Spd/31s/rusted
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RE: Fuel Pump? - 11/26/2005 3:10:06 PM
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Bojib
Posts: 78
Joined: 11/21/2005
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quote:
ORIGINAL: blazin97
my brother just bought one for his 97 s10 2.2($375) and replaced it, then found out it was just a bad ground. so check that first.
I'm pretty sure, that would make me cry.  
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RE: Fuel Pump? - 11/26/2005 3:15:29 PM
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klandon
Posts: 5
Joined: 11/14/2005
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oka what is the easiest way to check the ground with out dropping the tank. unfortanly a friend of mine borrowed my volt/ohm meter so i wont have that back till monday. also the where does the ground connect at.
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RE: Fuel Pump? - 11/26/2005 9:29:14 PM
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blazin97
Posts: 1590
Joined: 11/16/2004
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Bojib I laughed at him for not checking that first.
klandon he took the bed of so it was easy for him. I will ask him where it connects at tonight when he gets home, at 10,and ill post tomarrow morning.
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Chris
97 Blazer 2DR/2WD-down for some upgrades
97 Blazer 2DR/4WD/4.3/5Spd/31s/rusted
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RE: Fuel Pump? - 11/27/2005 5:26:37 PM
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klandon
Posts: 5
Joined: 11/14/2005
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oka guys i think i have found the problem. I finaly got my hands on the wiring diagram and figured out which pin is the signal for the fuel pump to turn on. The book tells me that this pin should have a reading close to 12v when the key is turned on, However when i tested this the pin did not have that. It barely registered one volt. Now the question is, is it more than like the connector or is it something else. I tested the relay block and got a 12v reading there. Now my next question is that there is three relays in the glove box. The center one is considered to be the fuel pump. What are the other two for.
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RE: Fuel Pump? - 11/27/2005 9:11:41 PM
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blazin97
Posts: 1590
Joined: 11/16/2004
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ok dont know what the relays are for but I talked to my brother today and he said it is next to the gas tank on the frame, but yours is different because your tank is in back and his is on the side(s10 vs blazer).
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Chris
97 Blazer 2DR/2WD-down for some upgrades
97 Blazer 2DR/4WD/4.3/5Spd/31s/rusted
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RE: Fuel Pump? - 11/30/2005 2:21:04 PM
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Hanr3
Wheels & Tire Moderator
Posts: 3399
Joined: 5/11/2005
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I had a nice long reply full of valuable info, however I guess it took too long to type and this site logged me out. I lost all of it. I will try to recreate it for you.
I used to know what all the relays are for, but have forgotten.
Replace the relay to eliminate it as a possibility, then are cheap (less then $10) and easy to replace.
The is another circuit that will kill power to teh fuel pump. It is the oil pressure sending unit. It is a safety device, no oil, no fuel, no fuel, no way to destroy the engine. It could also be a fualty ignition switch. Mine would trip my security system and wouldn't let me start the truck, however after 10-15 minutes it would start just fine. Dealer replaced the switch no charge, warrenty.
If your still reading and niether of those are the problem, fuel pump is shot. Which is what I suspect is the problem in your case.
Your gas tank has is located under the drivers side passengers seat. It has 6 hoses and 2 wiring harnesses. One of those wires is the ground, I doubt that is your problem, but you can check when you drop the tank. There is one bolt and one nut holding the two straps in place that hold your tank in place. The other side of the straps are hooked into the frame, push up and pull them out from the frame to release them. You will have to tilt the tank in order to remove the hoses and connectors. The harnesses and hoses attached to the fuel pump assembly are the easiest to remove. The hoses are quick clips, push the right parts and they come off. Easier said then done. Soak the other 3 hoses with WD-40. It softens the rubber and makes removal and installation much easier. Otherwaise you could spend an hour trying to get them off and might break something. One rubber hose is located on the front of the tank (towards front of truck), and the other two connect to the back of the tank and attach to your gas cap.
More useful tips.
Debris will fall off the top of the gas tank when you tilt it. Most likley in your face, wear eye protection and keep your mouth shut.  
Gas weighs roughly 8 pounds per gallon. 10 gallons = 80 pounds. The tank weighs roughly 20 pounds. IF you can bench that much, much faster and easier then using a jack. Otherwise use a jack. I would bench the tank in and out, then use my knees to hold it in place while I worked with my hands to install the straps, nut and bolt.
Clean all the debris off the top of the tank BEFORE you take the old pump assembly out. Don't let any of that crap get in the tank. I drained my tank and used the gas in my mower. Get new gas after you put it back together.
Get a new rubber gasket when you get the pump assembly, should be part of the kit.
Spend the $5 and get a new strianer too. If you don't plan on dropping the tank agian.
The new assemblies come with a new gas gauge sending unit. Your gas gauge might not work like the original. Some drop qucik at first, and slow down at the end. Some drop real slow at first and real quick at the end. This is normal.
You MUST have the code off the old unit to get the correct replacement. The only way to get that code is by dropping the tank.
If the vendor doesn't ask for the code, find another vendor, they WILL sell you the wrong part, and more then liekly the one you need will be out of stock.
Realize the new fuel pump assemblies cost $250 and up. GM quaoted me a price of $340. You get what you pay for. I went with a lifetime warrenty pump from AutoZone for $285.
It took me about 3 hrs to swap out my fuel pump assembly in the '00, and a month in the '87. Had other issues to deal with on that one, like rust holes. This includes 45 minutes running to the part store with my old part in my hand.
If you have more questions post up.
< Message edited by Hanr3 -- 11/30/2005 2:45:57 PM >
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"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference.
The Marines don't have that problem."
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'87 S10-Blazer - SOLD
'93 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - Sons DD, engine swap is done.
'00 S10-Blazer 4x4x4 - My
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RE: Fuel Pump? - 2/15/2008 9:49:11 AM
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Psychropod
Posts: 335
Joined: 5/23/2007
From: Baltimore, MD
Status: offline
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Revving this thread, since I may have to do this, and I think Hanr3's tips were really helpful...
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Raphael
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