How-To: Air Conditioning by DCFluX

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How-To: Air Conditioning by DCFluX

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How-To: Air Conditioning by DCFluX - 10/5/2007 4:24:08 PM

DCFluX

Posts: 68
Joined: 9/25/2006
Status: offline

This information is presented as a how to in repairing the Air Conditioning System in a Generation 2B Blazer and similar S-10 Pickups equiped with a 4.3L V6, Parts numbers specified or for a 1999 Blazer ZR2.

If your A/C makes a 'burning metal death cry' from the compressor when turned on, Congratulations, the compressor has siezed. There is a good chance that the bearings on the clutch assembly are not far behind, as evidenced by the compressor heating to the point of the paint starting to burn off. One person estimated the average life of a GM compressor at 90 hours, but he was driving a Ford and could not be trusted.

Before you begin it may be illegal for unlicenced persons to repair refirigeration systems in your state. Check your local listings. It is also illegal to vent R-134a into the atmousphere intentionally, slow leaks are another story. In anycase you may wish to have a shop flush a system out before you work on it, should only cost $30 and you may get a credit towards recovered refrigerent on refill time.

To rebuild you will need to acquire the following parts:

Replacement Compressor with clutch, Ready Aire 2645 or 2645N ($230 Rebuilt, $330 New)
Replacment Accumulator, Ready Aire 4440N ($38)
Expansion Valve & Orifice Tube, Ready Aire 46011 ($1.50)

The above three must be purchased together at to validate the 1 year warrenty.

Can of PAG oil, compatible to your vehicle,2003 and above high viscocity or 2002 below low viscocity ($10)
Replacement A/C gasket set, Factory Air 26742 ($6)

Not required but you might as well save your self the time and money now:

Hose Assembly, Ready Aire 35107 ($80)

Tools Required:

3/8" Drive Ratchet and extensions
13mm Deepwell socket
10mm socket
8mm box wrench
Ft. Lbs. Range torque wrench with 3/8" drive adapter
Needle nose pliars
Small split ring pliars
2, 12" cresent wrenches.
Assorted Large wrenches, in the 16mm to 24mm range.

Disconnect battery terminals and remove battery and battery tray from engine bay using 8mm wrench on terminals and 13mm deepwell socket with 12" extension on hold down clamp and no extension with tray securing bolts.

Remove the serpintine belt by placing the 3/8" drive ratchet into the belt tensioner and forcing it down.

Inspect the hose assembly were it goes into the compressor, this flange may have cracks and might be responcible for your A/C's death. Remove the hoses from the compressor using 13mm deepwell socket. Verify that a M10 Grade 8 washer was in place between bolt and hose assembly flange.

Inspect seals and flange for wear or obvious leak points. Look for unexplained oil spills around compressor area.

Disconnect A/C clutch electrical connector

Use needle nose pliars to remove retaining clip on underside of throttle cable mounting plate and push throttle cable to allow access to rear compressor mounting bolt. Remove compressor mounting bolts using 13mm deepwell and 6 to 10" extension.

Remove compressor from engine bay, Be aware there is an electrical connector on the rear of the compressor that will have to be disconnected while the compressor is in a position to allow easy access (mid-air).

Inspect compressor for oil slicks. Turn compressor over and measure amount of oil that came out. You will add this amount of new oil to the new compressor, if none comes out use approximently 1 oz.

Do not remove plastic dust seals from new compressor yet. Use split ring pliars to remove retaining clip and high presure sensor from old compressor. Clean as nessacary. Remove aluminum filler plug from new compressor using split ring pliars. Add oil to gaskets in compressor and insert sensor into compressor until firmly seated. Reinstall retaining clip.

Install new compressor

< Message edited by DCFluX -- 10/5/2007 4:26:52 PM >